Do you live, like me, in Northern Europe, where you hardly ever see the sun, and are you planning to travel to a country further south during the spring or summer? You’ll need a mineral sunscreen in a tin (maximum 100 grams) so you can easily carry it in your carry-on luggage on the plane. And, a few months before your trip, start preparing your skin—since you live in a northern country, it’s particularly vulnerable when you travel south and are exposed to the sun in warmer climates.
SKIN CARE IN THE SUMMER
To care for your skin in the summer, nutricosmetics and a diet rich in antioxidants—such as vitamin E, vitamin C, and beta-carotene—are essential for protecting against free radicals and promoting a safe tan. A holistic approach combines this internal nutrition with foods like spinach, nuts, citrus fruits, and carrots to prevent skin aging caused by UV rays.
Some of these supplements and foods we can consume to care for our skin in the summer include:
Vitamin E: Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin that acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting body tissue from damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals damage cells, tissues, and organs, leading to aging, which makes vitamin E the ideal supplement for caring for our skin and preventing damage from UV rays. It is found primarily in plant-based foods such as broccoli, spinach, wheat germ, and brewer’s yeast. Nuts such as hazelnuts, walnuts, and almonds are also rich in vitamin E.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is essential for the body’s development and maintenance, so consuming it is crucial for maintaining good health. It is a powerful antioxidant that works to reduce oxidative stress. It prevents premature aging and aids in the absorption of vitamins and minerals. It supports the growth and repair of connective tissue and the production of collagen. Collagen is the protein responsible for keeping our skin young, firm, and smooth. You’ll find it in citrus fruits like oranges and lemons, or in fruits such as kiwis, strawberries, and berries.
Beta-carotene: Beta-carotenes are yellow or orange plant pigments that are great allies for our skin. They belong to the carotenoid group—a type of flavonoid—and are precursors to vitamin A. Once ingested, they are converted into vitamin A within our bodies. They are a powerful antioxidant that protects the cardiovascular and immune systems. They’re also very beneficial for our skin, as they help us achieve a more beautiful complexion by stimulating melanin production—which helps us tan more easily—while also protecting us from free radicals. It has been shown to help sensitive skin become more tolerant to the sun. Foods rich in beta-carotene act as a filter against harmful rays and reduce the risk of skin cancer. You’ll find them in pumpkin, spinach, carrots, tomatoes, asparagus, papaya, peaches…
FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN MAKING A NATURAL AND EFFECTIVE SUNSCREEN
As we’ve been discussing, “integral” sun protection is achieved by combining internal nutrition—rich in antioxidants and vitamins—with virgin plant oils that strengthen the skin’s barrier against harmful solar radiation. Nutrients such as vitamin E and beta-carotene, along with topical applications of raspberry, sea buckthorn, and karanja oils, repair, soothe, and prevent premature aging. Therefore, when designing our natural sunscreen, we must also consider these “high-value” plant oils that provide a biological protection factor against UV radiation. These biological filters, based on natural plant oils such as karanja, tamanu, buriti, and raspberry, are commonly incorporated into sunscreen formulations to enhance the mineral sun protection factor and, very importantly, to repair the invisible cellular damage caused by ultraviolet radiation that manages to penetrate physical barriers.
Most first-cold-pressed plant carrier oils possess some form of sun protection factor, as detailed in PubMed: (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21808534/). And as confirmed by Ayurvedic tradition and ancestral medicine: (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17188472/) In other words, the oils used in different cultures as protection against solar radiation—such as coconut oil, the base of the popular Tahitian monoï, and tamanu oil in Polynesia; karanja oil in the Ayurvedic tradition; or, more recently, the well-known raspberry seed oil—all have above-average sun protection factors.
https://www.berrybeautiful.us/assets/characteristics-of-raspberry-(rubus-idaeus-l.)-seed-oil.pdf
However, it’s important to note that we’ll consider them “adjuvants” to the sun protection factor, since the components that actually do the work are the mineral filters—which are the elements that truly have the ability to physically block harmful solar radiation.
Thus, we’ll see that an effective and natural sunscreen (one that also doesn’t cause problems for even the most sensitive skin) must contain zinc oxide as an essential active ingredient with a high level of protection against UVA rays, as well as a small percentage of titanium dioxide, which, when combined with zinc oxide, enhances and broadens the overall protection provided by our sunscreen.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN A BIOLOGICAL SPF DERIVED FROM VEGETABLE OILS AND A MINERAL SPF
As we mentioned in the previous section, the main difference lies in the fact that mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are officially recognized and mandatory for blocking radiation, while organic filters (such as karanja oil or tamanu oil) act as a supportive antioxidant shield. Most of these “biological sunscreen oils” do not create a sufficiently thick and reflective layer capable of physically blocking solar radiation. In other words, their mechanism of sun protection is different from that of mineral filters.
The mechanism of action of mineral filters is that of a physical barrier or reflective shield on the skin’s surface. Their function is purely mechanical: they reflect, scatter, and deflect ultraviolet rays (UVA and UVB) immediately upon application. There is a spectral synergy effect between the two filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide). Since neither filter is perfect on its own for covering the entire spectrum of ultraviolet radiation, combining them in a single formulation allows them to “enhance each other’s effectiveness” by compensating for each other’s weaknesses:
- Titanium dioxide is an extraordinary and very powerful protector against UVB rays (which burn the skin and cause erythema) and the short-wavelength UVA range (UVA-II). However, it falls far short in protecting against long-wavelength UVA rays (UVA-I).
- Zinc oxide is the king of the full spectrum. It offers an excellent, uniform protection curve that perfectly covers long-wave UVA rays (those responsible for premature aging, dark spots, and deep cellular damage), in addition to UVB rays.
Synergy result: When combined, titanium dioxide rapidly increases the SPF value (UVB protection), while zinc oxide ensures “broad-spectrum” protection. Both are highly photostable and allow for the safe and certified achievement of high protection factors (SPF 30, SPF 50+). Furthermore, they are the only UV filters approved and authorized by certified natural cosmetics standards (such as COSMOS or Ecocert) to be marketed strictly as “sunscreens.”
How can these oils be used effectively?
The certified cosmetics industry draws on these studies, not by replacing mineral sunscreens with biological filters, but by using them as “natural SPF boosters.” Regulated natural cosmetics brands blend a base of approved mineral filters with, for example, karanja oil. Mineral filters do 90% of the heavy lifting by safely blocking the sun’s rays, while the oil molecules absorb the remaining radiation and prevent deep oxidative damage. And this is the message we wanted to convey about these oils.
PLANT OILS WITH A HIGH BIOLOGICAL SUN PROTECTION FACTOR
Although they are not sunscreens per se, they prevent oxidative damage to the skin and slow down aging because their biological sun protection factor traps free radicals. In conclusion, these oils not only prevent sun damage but also act as excellent skin barrier repairers after sun exposure.
Karanja Oil (Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil)
In principle, biological sunscreens do not create a thick, reflective layer. For example, karanja oil, in addition to the fatty acids found in its seeds, also naturally contains furanflavonoids, including karanjin and pongamol. These two active molecules make karanja oil a natural sunscreen with the biological ability to absorb a certain amount of UV radiation. It’s also worth noting that the chemical structure of pongamol is very similar to that of avobenzone, a well-known synthetic UVA filter.
However, it is estimated that, when used in isolation, karanja oil has a low SPF (generally between 10 and 20 in laboratory tests), and furthermore, it is not, on its own, a factor that can be reliably and sufficiently measured to ensure safe exposure to direct sunlight.
Furthermore, this oil alone—when combined in a formulation with mineral filters—provides a vast amount of antioxidants that neutralize free radicals generated by the sun, preventing oxidative stress and cellular aging. Its antibacterial, emollient, and anti-inflammatory properties naturally help (biological protection factor) the skin protect itself against sunburn and prevent photoaging.
Tamanu Oil (Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil)
Another great natural oil with proven sun-protective properties is tamanu oil, also known as calophyllum oil. Polynesians have traditionally used tamanu oil and coconut oil to protect their skin and hair from the sun.
Native to Polynesia and Madagascar, this thick, green oil is a true therapeutic balm with scientifically proven photoprotective properties. It contains molecules called neoflavonoids (such as calophyllide) as well as coumarin derivatives. These complex organic compounds have chromophore properties, meaning they possess the chemical ability to directly absorb ultraviolet radiation.
It is particularly notable for its ability to absorb UVA radiation and for its biological properties that provide cellular photoprotection. It is capable of protecting the DNA of skin cells from UV-induced damage, reducing sun-induced cell death (apoptosis). Studies have shown that tamanu oil can absorb ultraviolet light, especially in the 260–400 nm range, and inhibit up to 85% of UV-induced DNA damage, as detailed at (https://vipsen.vn/en/natural-sun-protection-how-tamanu-oil-shields-skin-from-uv-damage/) … Estimates of its natural sun protection factor (SPF) generally range from 11 to 24 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17188472/)
ANOTHER INTERESTING feature of this oil is that it is absorbed into the skin, which eliminates the need to reapply it after swimming. We could therefore say that tamanu oil is not only a sunscreen but also “waterproof”😊 Naturally, if you have sensitive skin or skin affected by dermatitis that cannot tolerate synthetic sunscreens, this oil is especially recommended for you, as studies confirm (https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8782620/)
It also has healing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for after-sun care, as its powerful regenerative properties immediately soothe the skin, minimizing redness and inflammation (erythema) if the sun causes skin stress.
Raspberry Seed Oil (Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil)
Another great oil, a somewhat more recent discovery, is raspberry seed oil. This oil is considered the “holy grail” of natural sunscreen oils due to its exceptional lipid and antioxidant profile. This oil is extremely rich in ellagic acid (a polyphenol), vitamin E (tocopherols and tocotrienols), and carotenoids. These compounds work by secondarily absorbing solar radiation and, above all, blocking the free-radical cascade before it damages cells. Furthermore, laboratory studies (in vitro) suggest that it possesses remarkable absorption capacity in the UVB and UVA ranges. Although the myth that it has an SPF of 28 to 50 went viral online (which is false and unsafe for a pure oil), its actual effectiveness as a sunscreen adjuvant is among the highest among plant oils. Thus, we can conclude that its extremely high concentration of essential Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids helps repair the skin barrier that the sun tends to dehydrate.
| Adjuvant Oil | UV Specialty | Greatest Benefit in the Mineral Formula |
| Karanja | UVB / UVA | Maximum SPF enhancer; excellent biological booster. |
| Raspberry | Broad Spectrum | Massive antioxidant shield; prevents skin degradation. |
| Tamanu | UVA / Cellular Protection | Protects cellular DNA and soothes inflammation (anti-erythema). |
OTHER ORGANIC INGREDIENTS WITH A HIGH BIOLOGICAL PROTECTION FACTOR
Like the previous ones, though to a lesser extent, the following oils—monoï, wheat germ, batana, buriti, sea buckthorn, etc.—also act as adjuvant biological filters, providing unique benefits that enhance the mineral filters in our formulation thanks to their internal molecular composition. Each of them provides specific compounds that act as organic protectants, complementing and optimizing formulations based on zinc and titanium mineral filters.
Monoï Oil (Gardenia Taitensis Infused in Coconut Oil)
Coconut oil offers low-level natural protection against UV rays. That is why it is recommended to use it more as a moisturizer—offering mild, complementary sun protection—rather than as an active sunscreen oil. And this is precisely the philosophy behind the famous Monoï oil. Tahitian Monoï is not an oil extracted directly from a seed, but rather a traditional maceration of Tiare flowers in refined coconut oil. Its purpose is more to protect the skin barrier than to act purely as a radiation-filtering oil. This oil regenerates the skin thanks to its moisturizing, nourishing, and softening properties, while also imparting a delightful fragrance.
Tiaré flowers provide natural salicylates (compounds chemically related to some traditional organic sunscreens, but in mild concentrations) and terpenic alcohols that offer antioxidant and purifying properties. Its ability to absorb UV radiation on its own is very low (estimated SPF of 2 to 4). However, its true value lies in its occlusive properties and its ability to protect the hydrolipid barrier. Mineral filters (zinc and titanium) tend to dry out the skin due to their powdery nature. Monoï oil envelops these mineral particles, allowing the cream to spread evenly (preventing patchiness) and retaining the skin’s moisture in the sun. This is why it helps the skin resist the extreme dehydration caused by the “sun + salt/wind” combination.
Buriti Oil (Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil)
Derived from an Amazonian palm tree, it is chemically one of the most potent plant oils available for sun protection, as it is the richest natural source of beta-carotene (provitamin A) on the planet—five times richer than carrots. Carotenoids naturally absorb light radiation and protect cell membranes from photooxidative damage. It also contains high levels of tocopherols (vitamin E). This oil has a characteristic, very intense reddish-orange color, and spectrophotometric studies show that it has a high absorption capacity in the spectral region between 280 and 360 nm, which perfectly covers the UVB and short-UVA ranges. In isolation, in vitro tests assign it a raw SPF of approximately 4.9. Due to its color and the high concentration of carotenoids, it helps filter blue light (high-energy visible light), something that neither titanium nor zinc can block 100%.
Sea Buckthorn Oil (Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil)
This oil (especially that extracted from the berries, which has a dark orange color) is a biological gem for extreme sun exposure. It stands out for its unique lipid profile, being one of the few plant sources rich in palmitoleic acid (Omega-7), a natural component of our skin’s barrier. It is packed with carotenoids, flavonoids, and superoxide dismutase (SOD), an enzyme that actively destroys the most aggressive free radicals generated by the sun. Its direct absorption of photons is moderate, concentrated primarily in the UVB band. Its true strength lies not in blocking radiation, but in preventing destructive metabolic changes and the release of inflammatory cytokines in cells exposed to UV rays. Sun exposure suppresses the skin’s immune system (immunosuppression). Sea buckthorn mitigates this effect by protecting Langerhans cells. Additionally, omega-7 dramatically accelerates tissue regeneration when the tissue is subjected to thermal stress.
Wheat Germ Oil (Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil)
It is an undisputed classic in the world of rich, protective natural cosmetics due to its heavy, nourishing molecular structure. It is the undisputed king of natural vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) in the plant kingdom. As a lipophilic molecule, it integrates perfectly into skin cell membranes. When a UV ray generates a free radical that attempts to break down the cell, tocopherol “sacrifices” itself by absorbing the oxidative impact. Its physical light-absorption capacity is low to moderate, focused primarily on UVB rays. It acts more as a stabilizer for the formula. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can generate small amounts of reactive oxygen species (ROS) when exposed to intense sunlight if they are not fully coated. Wheat germ immediately neutralizes this effect within the emulsion itself, making the sunscreen extremely photostable and safe.
Batana Oil (Elaeis Oleifera Kernel Oil)
Traditionally used by the indigenous peoples of Honduras (extracted from the nut of the American oil palm), this oil is a recent addition to cutting-edge scientific formulations. Its secret lies in a high concentration of tocotrienols (a form of vitamin E that is much more potent and has greater cellular penetration than common tocopherols) and oleic and linoleic fatty acids. Batana tocotrienols block the enzymes that destroy collagen (metalloproteinases) when residual UVA rays penetrate the dermis, preventing the loss of elasticity. Its ability to directly absorb UV radiation is very low (it does not replace an SPF). However, it stands out for its extremely high photostability under thermal stress: it does not degrade or oxidize when exposed to the sun’s heat. Because it is rich in dense triglycerides, it forms a very uniform lipid film on the skin. This helps ensure that the insoluble particles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide remain perfectly “anchored” and distributed across the surface, preventing the sunscreen from breaking down or accumulating in skin lines when you sweat.
Table of Biological Properties in Mineral Formulas
| Carrier Oil | Key Compound | Synergy Specialty | Ideal for… |
| Buriti | Beta-Carotene | UV Absorption + Blue Light Filter | Urban Formulas and Enhanced SPF |
| Sea Buckthorn | Omega-7 and SOD | Immune protection and anti-erythema | Extreme Exposure (Snow, Water, Mountains) |
| Wheat Germ | High levels of \(\alpha\)-tocopherol | Stabilizes minerals exposed to the sun | Dry, mature, or sensitive skin |
| Batana | Tocotrienols | Uniform film and collagen protection | Prevents mineral patches and photoaging |
When formulating a good natural sunscreen, chemists typically use a base consisting mainly of a light, fluid oil (such as caprylic or jojoba oil) to ensure the cream spreads easily, and they incorporate these special oils in precise percentages (between 1% and 5%) due to their potent cellular activity.
Including a tablespoon of any of these oils is always a good idea in any of our cosmetic recipes. The reason is that these oils are rich in vitamin E and natural antioxidants. Wheat germ oil, for example, is considered one of the richest sources of vitamin E, containing considerable amounts per 15 ml. Batana oil is also very rich in tocopherols and tocotrienols (forms of vitamin E) and carotenoids. This powerful combination provides excellent protection for the skin and hair against free radicals. Or sea buckthorn oil, which contains one of the highest concentrations of vitamin E among natural oils, particularly alpha-tocopherol. It also contains rare omega-7 fatty acids, making it a very potent oil for preventing skin aging and promoting cellular health.
Likewise, argan, avocado, and safflower oils also possess numerous antioxidant properties. Unlike the oils mentioned earlier (such as buriti and sea buckthorn, which stand out for their chromophore pigments that absorb radiation), this group is notable for its extremely high concentration of structural lipids and phytosterols. Their role as biological adjuvants is not to “block” light, but to immediately repair cellular damage and mechanically optimize how zinc and titanium settle on the skin.
Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil)
Known as the “liquid gold of Morocco,” its molecular structure is one of the most resistant to oxidation at high temperatures, making it an excellent sunscreen base. It is exceptionally rich in gamma-tocopherol (a form of vitamin E that is highly effective at protecting the skin’s lipids) and natural squalene (a component that mimics human sebum). It also contains a high percentage of phytosterols that drastically reduce inflammatory processes in sun-exposed skin. Scientific studies show that argan oil very effectively prevents hyperpigmentation (sunspots) by regulating melanocyte activity under radiation stress.
Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima Oil)
This oil is one of the densest, most penetrating, and most nourishing in the plant kingdom, making it ideal for sunscreens designed for harsh weather conditions or mature skin. It stands out for its high oleic acid (Omega-9) content and for having the highest concentration of phytosterols of all fruit oils. These sterols act as an intercellular cement, mimicking the skin’s own structure to prevent heat-induced dehydration. It also contains lutein, an antioxidant that protects against damage from visible light. Its true biological strength lies in its ability to penetrate: unlike other oils that remain on the surface, avocado oil penetrates down to the viable layers of the epidermis, delivering antioxidants directly to the cells suffering from sun stress. As a rich, heavy oil, it naturally imparts hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties to the emulsion, helping to prevent minerals from being washed away too quickly by sweat or seawater.
Safflower Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil)
It is the undisputed champion of linoleic acid (Omega-6), accounting for over 70% or 80% of its total composition in traditional varieties. Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid that acne-prone or oily skin types often have at low levels. Safflower also provides syringatandiol, a phenolic compound with powerful anti-inflammatory properties that curbs the cascade of inflammatory cytokines triggered by solar radiation.
When combined with a heavy oil, zinc oxide can trigger acne breakouts. Safflower oil is incredibly light, fluid, and quickly absorbed (non-comedogenic). It allows for the formulation of mineral sunscreens with “dry-touch” textures, fluid sunscreens, or gel-cream textures that are ideal for combination, oily, or acne-prone skin.
Summary of Structural Roles in the Mineral Formula
| Adjuvant Oil | Featured Compound | Specialty in Mineral Synergy | Ideal Formula Profile |
| Argan | Gamma-Tocopherol and Squalene | Prevents dark spots (melasma) and improves the glide of zinc. | Anti-aging and daily urban care formulas. |
| Avocado | Phytosterols and Omega-9 | Provides water resistance and combats the drying effects of titanium dioxide. | Body creams, beach sunscreens, or for very dry skin. |
| Safflower | Linoleic Acid (Omega-6) | Ultra-light, “dry-touch” texture that doesn’t clog pores. | Facial sunscreen fluids for combination or acne-prone skin. |
Advanced natural cosmetics formulators often balance formulations by using safflower oil to provide lightness, argan oil to protect against aging, and a small percentage of chromophore oils (such as buriti) to correct the whitish cast left by zinc and titanium.
THE FORMULATION OF OUR SUNSCREEN BUTTER
As always, on this page we prioritize solutions best suited for the most sensitive skin types. This mineral and organic sunscreen, which we’ll describe below, can even be used on babies. And, of course, it not only protects the most delicate skin but also does not harm marine life in coral reefs.
To formulate a water-free, semisolid sunscreen—such as a sun balm or protective butter—we enter the realm of anhydrous cosmetics. Since it contains no water, the product requires no preservatives and is naturally extremely water-resistant. The only risk is that the formula may feel heavy or leave a chalky white residue, which is why the preliminary “blending” process is the most critical step in the entir . It is also important to know the required ratio of mineral filters to achieve the desired sun protection factor (SPF 30).
Below, we’ll examine how the pre-blending process works and how the formulation for a semisolid sunscreen balm is structured.
What is the appropriate ratio of mineral filters in natural cosmetic formulations?
In advanced commercial formulations of eco-natural cosmetics, one mineral filter (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) is not chosen over the other; rather, they are combined. The maximum legal limit for use (in natural cosmetics certified under standards such as COSMOS or Ecocert) is typically 25% of the total formula.
The optimal commercial ratios vary depending on the desired SPF, but the most successful standard proportions are structured as follows:
- For balanced/high protection (SPF 30 to SPF 50): A 2:1 or 3:1 ratio in favor of zinc oxide is typically used. Common example: 10%–15% zinc oxide combined with 5%–7% titanium dioxide.
The success of these ratios in today’s commercial and certified natural cosmetics also depends on particle size (in the past, particles were large and pasty; today, they are formulated in optimized “non-nano” or “micro” sizes dispersed in vegetable oils so they spread smoothly without leaving a white cast).
Naturally, we’re not going to use these types of “semi-nano” filters to make our homemade sunscreen. Among other reasons, this is because we don’t have access to these raw materials, which are sold and distributed exclusively to supply these large commercial organic cosmetics companies.
However, you’re probably already realizing from all these explanations that it’s perfectly possible to formulate a homemade, natural, and effective sunscreen using traditional cosmetic ingredients that are accessible to everyone. In any case, to prevent any clumping in our sunscreen, we’ll use a cold pre-blending technique, which we’ll cover next.
PROCESS STEPS
1. The Blending Process (Pre-Dispersion)
Mineral filters are extremely fine, dense powders that tend to agglomerate (stick together, forming microscopic clumps). If we add the powder directly to the melted fats, the clumps will solidify within the balm. This causes two serious problems: the cream will feel gritty upon application and will lose almost all of its protective effectiveness (SPF), since there will be mineral-free “gaps” on the skin.
To perform proper pre-blending, formulators follow these steps:
- Selection of the dispersion vehicle: A portion of the most fluid and stable oils from the recipe is set aside to create the “paste.” The best options for this are light esters (such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) or oils with a very fluid texture, such as safflower or raspberry oils.
- Cold grinding: Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide powders are placed in a beaker, and the fluid oil is added gradually.
- Shear mixing (high-energy blending): Simply stirring with a spatula is not enough. You must use a high-shear mixer (in a laboratory) or a powerful hand blender (immersion blender) at maximum speed for several minutes. The goal is to physically break up the powder clumps until you achieve a fluid, glossy, completely smooth paste with the consistency of thick wall paint.
It’s not essential to buy this device, but it can be very useful if you regularly make your own homemade cosmetic products.
2. Structure of an Anhydrous Semisolid Formula (Balm/Stick Type) for an SPF of Approximately 30
In this formulation, the hardness and melting point are controlled by balancing hard waxes, semisolid butters, and the oils in which the minerals were emulsified.
- PHASE A: Pre-blended mineral mixture (approx. 40%–45% of the product)
- 15% Zinc Oxide (Non-Nano).
- 5% Titanium Dioxide (Non-Nano).
- 20% to 25% fluid dispersion oils: Here we’ll use a combination of esters and light oils to help the powders disperse better.
We will first process everything cold using an electric mixer, as indicated in the previous step.
- PHASE B: The Semisolid Structural Matrix (approx. 50%)
- 10% to 12% Hard Waxes: Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, or Carnauba Wax (the latter is ideal for summer sticks because it has a very high melting point—about 82°C—preventing the balm from melting in your bag or at the beach).
- 15% Butters: Shea butter or cupuaçu butter (these provide creaminess so the balm melts gently upon contact with the skin’s heat).
- 23% Thick Organic Oils: Here we include the most therapeutic and cell-protective oils that withstand the heat of melting well, such as Karanja Oil (SPF enhancer) and Avocado Oil (water resistance and nourishment).
- PHASE C: Heat-Sensitive Active Ingredients (approx. 5%)
- 4% Rice Starch, Corn Starch, or Kaolin (White Clay): Crucial in anhydrous formulas. It helps mattify the final product on the skin, absorbs the greasy feel of the butters, and helps optically blur the white residue left by the minerals.
- 1% Vitamin E (Tocopherol): An essential antioxidant that protects the large amount of oils in the formula from oxidative rancidity caused by the sun.
3. Balm Manufacturing Process
- Prepare the emulsion base: Whisk the minerals with the Phase A oils at room temperature until a perfectly smooth, lump-free dispersion is achieved. Set aside.
- Melting the Base: In a double boiler, heat the Phase B ingredients (waxes, butters, and heavy oils) until the waxes have completely melted (approx. 75°C–80°C). Finally, add the clays and plant extracts, if any.
- Combining: Remove Phase B from the heat, immediately incorporate the mineral paste (Phase A), and beat vigorously again until the entire mixture is homogeneous.
- Additives and Packaging: When the temperature drops slightly (to about 60°C, but before it begins to solidify), add the vitamin E (Phase C). Stir well and quickly pour the hot mixture into its final container (an aluminum jar or a push-up style cardboard/plastic tube). Allow it to cool to room temperature until it reaches its final semisolid consistency.
When this balm is applied to the skin, body heat instantly melts the waxes and butters, releasing a continuous, uniform, and highly protective film of zinc, titanium, and antioxidant oils.
LET’S GET STARTED WITH THE RECIPE
We’ve designed a semi-solid sunscreen balm to make it easier to carry while traveling. This formula is a 100% anhydrous (water-free) recipe containing nearly one-third beeswax to provide greater chemical stability and prevent degradation from heat. This significant amount will keep our product compact and help prevent it from becoming excessively soft due to temperature changes.
It is, therefore, a sunscreen that’s safe against bacteria and truly resistant to water and sweat. This type of anhydrous product is much less affected by temperature fluctuations than a natural cosmetic containing water that requires the addition of preservatives. Additionally, the ingredients have been specially selected to be suitable for all skin types, from sensitive skin and skin affected by dermatitis to even babies’ skin.
We’ve provided a 100-gram tin to make it easy to carry our sunscreen and to help preserve the oils in the formula. In a tin container, the oils are less likely to go rancid than in a plastic container.
Finally, we’ve added a mixture of annatto powder and natural cocoa dissolved in the paste to prevent the zinc and titanium (mineral filters) from leaving a white cast on the skin.
THE SUMMER SUNSCREEN RECIPE
For a sunscreen to be effective, it needs 20% mineral filters per 100 grams of product. We’ve added natural coloring powders (annatto and cocoa powder) to this recipe to avoid the white cast that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide filters leave on the skin. With this recipe, the estimated Sun Protection Factor (SPF) will be around 30, offering very high protection against UVA rays. This calculation is based on the fact that zinc oxide combined with titanium dioxide accounts for approximately 22% of the total formula (20 g of filters).
In natural cosmetics, each 1% of zinc oxide provides between 0.7 and 1 SPF point. Added to this is karanja oil, which contains pongamol and acts as a biological filter that naturally absorbs UV radiation, subtly enhancing the effectiveness of the mineral filters without the need to add more chemicals.
LET’S GET STARTED WITH THE RECIPE FOR TINTED SUNSCREEN FOR SENSITIVE SKIN WITH SPF ~30 (100G)
As we’ve been explaining, grinding the mineral pigments (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) in a mortar beforehand won’t prevent clumping because these minerals don’t dissolve. We’re therefore going to use a different technique—cold pre-mixing—which will give us a perfect, homogeneous mixture.
We’ll start with (glass 1), where we’ll mix the mineral powders with the liquid oils at room temperature to achieve the perfect paste.
Phase 1: The Anti-Lump “Mother Paste” (Cold Dispersion)
- 12 g of Karanja Oil (biologically active UV filter).
- 10 g of raspberry seed oil (thermal antioxidant and restorative).
- 4 g castor oil (thickener and eczema soother).
- 15 g of zinc oxide (non-nano).
- 5 g of Titanium Dioxide (Non-Nano) (to raise the SPF to ~30).
- 2 g of pure cocoa powder (color corrector).
- 0.5 g of annatto powder (source of beta-carotene and golden hue).
Step 2: The Occlusive Base (Melting in a Double Boiler)
Here we’ll melt the hard fats together with the rest of the heat-stable oils.
- 15 g of pure beeswax.
- 20 g coconut oil (adds creaminess and stability).
- 6 g of Tamanu oil (powerful healing agent; added here to make up the fat content).
Phase 3: Heat-Sensitive Active Ingredients (Add While Cold, <40°C)
- 5 g wheat germ oil (our mega-dose of natural vitamin E and elasticity).
- Optional: 6 or 8 drops of essential oils (Helichrysum and Myrrh).
STEP-BY-STEP PREPARATION INSTRUCTIONS
As we mentioned, we’ll first prepare the “paste” with the oils and mineral filters because this will prevent lumps from forming and ensure that no part remains undissolved (which would lower our SPF) when we place the mixture in a double boiler with the beeswax. Mix these ingredients with a spatula while cold until you create a smooth, lump-free chocolate-like paste. Of course, as we mentioned earlier, if you have access to an electric mixer, the mixture will turn out much better.
- Preparing the Paste (Glass 1): In a clean glass, pour in 12g of karanja, 10g of raspberry, and 4g of castor oil. Add the zinc, titanium, cocoa, and annatto. Using a silicone spatula, press the powders firmly against the sides of the jar until you obtain a smooth, shiny chocolate cream that is 100% lump-free. Set aside in the refrigerator.
- Base Fusion (Glass 2): In another glass, add the beeswax, coconut oil, and tamanu oil. Heat in a double boiler until the wax melts completely (around 65°C–70°C). Remove from heat.
- Physical Emulsion: Let Bowl 2 cool for one minute (to avoid a sudden temperature shock). Pour the contents of Bowl 2 in a thin stream over the mixture in Bowl 1 while whisking at maximum speed with your mini electric mixer. You’ll see everything blend into a perfectly homogeneous balm.
- Final Touch: When the beaker feels warm to the touch (approx. 40°C), stir in the 5g of wheat germ oil and a few drops of essential oils, if desired. Whisk for a few more seconds.
- Packaging: Immediately pour into your dark glass jar or tin before it solidifies completely.
The result is a sunscreen with a semi-solid balm-like consistency, a beautiful color, highly nourishing, and completely safe for the skin barrier. Since it contains no water, this sunscreen will remain in perfect condition for 4 to 6 months when stored in a cool place.
WHY THESE INGREDIENTS WERE CHOSEN:
The combination of oils: Tamanu oil is a powerful healing agent, and karanja oil contains pongamol, which naturally absorbs UV radiation. Wheat germ oil—or batana oil, if available—provides the vitamin E needed to prevent the mixture from oxidizing in the sun.
The “Double” Annatto and Cocoa: The combination of these two ingredients—0.5 grams of annatto powder and 2 grams of cocoa powder—is intended to mask the “white cast” effect of mineral filters, giving the skin a beautiful bronzed tone when the butter is applied. Urucum (rich in beta-carotene) and cocoa provide a beautiful bronzed tone that neutralizes the “ghostly” effect of zinc.
OPTIONAL: Helichrysum and myrrh essential oils, as they are wonderful regenerators. However, for atopic skin, it’s best to omit them since they tend to trigger allergies during sun exposure. In any case, we can add them in a maximum dose of 6 to 8 drops total, just to be on the safe side, or eliminate them entirely if our skin is reactive.
THE SIMPLIFIED RECIPE
If you’re not going to use this sunscreen solely on your face but on your entire body, you can simplify the recipe by omitting, for example, raspberry seed oil and tamanu oil. In this case, you’d adjust the recipe by increasing the percentages of karanja oil and castor oil during the blending phase. And by increasing the percentage of coconut oil during the fat melting phase.
Perhaps something like this:
However, it’s important not to omit karanja oil because it acts as an active biological filter to prevent sunburn.
ABOUT OZONATED OILS AND SUN PROTECTION
Gently ozonized oils also have a biological sun protection factor, which means that when they are incorporated into a formulation containing sun-blocking filters, the formula’s total SPF is enhanced.
“In other words, if ozonated vegetable oil is incorporated into the formula of a sunscreen containing physical or chemical filters, it not only improves the product’s spreadability on the skin by creating a uniform and continuous film, but also increases the final SPF value of that sunscreen.”
researchgate.net/publication/383894653_Effect_of_Ozonation_on_Physicochemical_Properties_of_Olive_Oil_Based_Sunscreen_Product
THE AFTER-SUN EFFECT OF OZONIZED OILS
Ozonized oils also act as “biological protectors” due to their cell-repairing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties following sun exposure (after-sun).
Mechanisms of Biological Skin Protection: Although they do not prevent UV rays from penetrating the skin, ozonated oils (such as olive or sunflower oil) protect the skin’s biological functions through the following chemical and cellular processes:
Neutralization of Oxidative Stress: Solar radiation generates free radicals that damage cells. The stable ozonides and peroxides in the oil stimulate the skin’s natural antioxidant systems, limiting cellular damage.
Reduction of erythema and inflammation: They effectively alleviate the inflammation, redness, itching, and pain caused by sunburn.
Stimulation of tissue regeneration: They accelerate the repair of the sun-damaged skin barrier by activating cell growth factors such as PDGF, TGF-β, and VEGF.
Prevention of infections: If solar radiation is so intense that it causes blisters or severe peeling, their germicidal properties prevent bacteria or fungi from colonizing the damaged skin.
Discover more from Naturamatters blog
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.