ABOUT BIOAVAILABLE INGREDIENTS IN HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS

Bowls and jars with aloe vera gel, dried rose petals, powder, honey, green powder, salt, chamomile, almonds, shea butter, jojoba oil with surrounding herbs

Natural skincare has a rich and fascinating history that spans centuries, intertwined with diverse cultures and practices from around the world. Throughout history, this skincare has been practiced primarily with natural products and, therefore, with a high degree of bioavailability.

The History of Natural Skincare: A Journey Through Time

This history of natural skincare is a testament to humanity’s enduring connection with nature. As we continue to explore and celebrate this connection, we invite you to join us on a journey of discovery and self-care, harnessing the power of nature to enhance our beauty and well-being. As we become increasingly aware of the benefits of natural ingredients in our beauty routines, it is important to explore the origins and evolution of this holistic approach to skincare.

Ancient Civilizations and Herbal Remedies

The roots of natural skincare date back to ancient civilizations, where the use of herbs, plants, and oils was commonplace. In ancient Egypt, for example, beauty and skincare were highly valued. The Egyptians used ingredients such as olive oil, aloe vera, and honey for their moisturizing and healing properties. It is said that Cleopatra, famous for her beauty, bathed in milk and honey, a ritual that highlighted the importance of natural ingredients for maintaining radiant skin.

Similarly, in traditional Chinese medicine, natural ingredients were incorporated into skincare routines for their healing properties. Herbal remedies and botanical extracts have long been used to treat various skin conditions and promote overall skin health.

In India, Ayurvedic skincare relies heavily on natural ingredients, such as turmeric, neem, and sandalwood, known for their therapeutic benefits. This holistic approach has gained popularity in the modern world, as more people seek natural alternatives to commercial skincare products.

Skin Care in the Victorian Era

To achieve an even complexion, women in the Victorian and Edwardian eras made their own face powders at home using rice flour, wheat starch, iris root powder, talcum powder, and calcium carbonate (prepared chalk).

Large, dark eyes were the ideal of beauty in the Victorian era and, above all, in the Edwardian era. For this reason, Edwardian women dyed their eyebrows and eyelashes with homemade natural eyeliner pencils, known at the time as “grease paint.” The grease paint was made with homemade carbon black mixed with natural oils and fats, rose water, and gum arabic.

Today, it is still possible to make a natural homemade mascara using black iron oxide (carbon black), distilled water, and gum arabic.

Lip balms were made with almond oil, cocoa butter, and beeswax. Just as they’re still made today in natural homemade cosmetics! And they were colored with alkanet root or carmine.

Today, alkanet root extracts or carmine can also be used to achieve natural shades, although we often opt for mineral oxides and micas, especially if we want a deeper, more stable color.

Victorian and Edwardian women preferred to use the same color for their lips and cheeks and often used tinted lip balm as a cream blush.

The 19th Century: A Shift in Skincare Practices

The 19th century saw significant advances in science and technology, leading to the development of synthetic skincare products. Although these products became popular for their convenience and effectiveness, many overlooked the potential side effects and environmental impact of synthetic ingredients.

The 20th Century: A Natural Revival

Following the proliferation of synthetic ingredients in the cosmetic, medical, and food industries—and the problems that began to arise from them—a back-to-nature movement emerged, with people seeking simpler, more natural alternatives for their skincare routines. This paved the way for the resurgence of herbal remedies and the use of essential oils, laying the foundation for modern natural skincare.

In the second half of the 20th century, we can find some publications, such as this manual on homemade creams and lotions by Donna Maria, which are true gems of natural homemade cosmetics. At that time, synthetic preservatives were rarely used in recipes, so pH measurements* were also rarely performed.

*pH measurements: pH measurement in homemade cosmetics is the process of determining the acidity or alkalinity (scale 0–14) of an emulsion or aqueous product using “test strips” or an electronic pH meter. It is particularly important , especially when using synthetic preservatives, to ensure that the product respects the skin’s natural pH (4.7–5.5), preventing irritation and guaranteeing the efficacy of the active ingredients and the stability of the preservatives.

As you know, these days, pH measurements and the famous “test strips” are all over blogs and websites about homemade cosmetics.

Back then, borax was used without hesitation, since it served not only as a co-emulsifier alongside beeswax and other plant-based waxes but also as a preservative for the resulting chemical emulsion. Stearic acid was also frequently added as a co-emulsifier, or even cold-processed soap shavings.

Often, ointments and balms were simply prepared without an aqueous phase, using fats and vegetable oils, thereby avoiding the problem of product preservation.

The fact is, if we’ve already used a toner or hydrosol in our skincare routine, it’s not essential for our homemade cream to contain hydrosols.

As for scents, essential oils and blends of them were typically used to scent the product while also imparting beneficial properties. This isn’t possible with synthetic fragrances. A perfume can certainly give our product a pleasant scent, but it won’t add any beneficial properties. If we use an essential oil, our skin also benefits from the properties and qualities provided by the plant.

For example, adding rosemary essential oil to our facial toner will make it more toning.

And adding rockrose essential oil (Cistus ladaniferus), which is a powerful skin regenerator, firming agent, and healer, will make our cream an ideal product for treating mature, dry, or acne-prone skin. It is also an excellent natural astringent and antiseptic.

And if our skin is sensitive and prone to eczema, irritation, and hives, it would be better to use patchouli essential oil, etc…

We are not absolutists, and we believe it is possible to add a small amount of fragrance or perfume to a shampoo or shower gel; but, of course, it is not the best idea for a product designed for skin absorption, such as a face or body cream.

And, always, if we add essential oils, it is best to do so in very small doses, just enough to add a scent. As we know, essential oils have strong biocidal properties that, in a product for daily use, can cause irritation.

The Current Landscape of Natural Skincare in the 21st Century

The final years of the 20th century marked a significant turning point in the skincare industry. The rise of the environmental movement in the 1960s and 1970s sparked greater consumer interest in organic and natural products. As people became more aware of the ingredients they were applying to their skin, brands began to respond by creating products that highlighted the use of natural ingredients.

Today, allergies and intolerances affect a significant percentage of the population, and many consumers have sensitive or reactive skin that cannot tolerate traditional commercial cosmetics.

All of this has led to the emergence of numerous natural skincare brands, many of which focus on sustainable sourcing and ethical practices. Consumers are increasingly seeking products free of harmful chemicals and synthetic additives.

Why, then, fall into the trap of traditional cosmetic companies that prioritized cheap ingredients (i.e., those synthesized in a lab or derived from petroleum, such as mineral oils) and product stability (achieved with synthetic preservatives)—making products “cheap and shelf-stable”—for the sake of marketability?

COMMERCIAL COSMETICS TODAY

It is now clear that natural ingredients offer endless possibilities for the development of effective cosmetic products. Their popularity has increased considerably over the past two decades, partly due to a significant shift in public opinion regarding the environment, human health, and well-being.

This is because plant-based ingredients have been shown to be effective treatments for a range of skin conditions, including erythema, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, photocarcinogenesis, and photoimmunosuppression. That is why botanical ingredients are now found in almost every type of cosmetic skin care product. In addition to plants, minerals are also natural ingredients. Some of the most common ones found in today’s cosmetic products are iron oxides, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide, which are primarily used in sunscreen formulations.

Dini, I. and S. Laneri, The new challenge of green cosmetics: natural food ingredients for cosmetic formulations.

The shift toward clean beauty is gaining momentum, leading to the establishment of certifications and standards for organic and natural products.

It is now possible to find commercial organic and clean cosmetics that are more environmentally friendly. And, therefore, cosmetics that are gentler on our skin, such as those made by brands like Weleda, Dr. Hauschka, Cattier, Skinceuticals, etc.

Today, natural skincare is more popular than ever.

On the other hand—and this is what is hardest for people like me, who make homemade natural cosmetics, to understand—social media is flooded with DIY cosmetic recipes loaded with preservatives and synthetic ingredients.

While commercial cosmetic brands are more aware than ever of the need to produce hypoallergenic cosmetics that can be tolerated by a wider audience, social media and DIY cosmetic literature are more saturated than ever with synthetic preservatives and pH strips.

We believe that this historical journey through natural skincare should involve not only looking back, but also moving forward.

The knowledge passed down from generation to generation should allow us to create products that are more luxurious and pleasant to apply, but also more effective and respectful—both of the planet and the environment, as well as of our skin.

CONCLUSIONS REGARDING HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS

If commercial cosmetics are using fewer and fewer synthetic products and more and more organic ingredients and raw materials, why not use traditional, much more natural products in DIY cosmetics—products that are therefore more bioavailable?

Plant-based and organic products and raw materials are not only more bioavailable, but they often provide benefits to our skin that synthetic ingredients cannot replicate.

FOR EXAMPLE: To thicken cosmetic gels and serums, you can use apple pectin, which has traditionally been used to thicken and gelify jams, jellies, and dairy products.

Apple pectin is a natural soluble fiber extracted from apple skin and pulp, widely used as a thickening and gelling agent in cooking. Apple pectin improves texture and reduces cooking time, while in terms of health, it helps regulate blood sugar, lower cholesterol, and improve digestion.

Pectin is one of nature’s best-kept secrets for skincare: a moisturizing, soothing, and protective ingredient that works well for all skin types. Whether you suffer from dryness, irritation, signs of aging, or dull skin, skincare products with pectin can help you restore balance, radiance, and elasticity.

Pectin is:

💚 Moisturizing and soothing

💚 Rich in antioxidants for youthful skin

💚 Strengthens the skin’s barrier function

RECIPE FOR A GEL-BASED FACE MASK WITH PECTIN AND Rooibos

Apparently, “rooibos” is a shrubby plant that soothes dry and sensitive skin and prevents eczema and related hives. Today, you can find rooibos tea bags everywhere. So it’s very easy to get your hands on some to make an infusion.

Ingredients:

A rooibos infusion, from which we’ll use about 6 tablespoons.

A couple of tablespoons of vegetable glycerin, in which we will dissolve one tablespoon of apple pectin.

PROCEDURE:

Set aside a small amount, about 100 ml, of the hot infusion, and add the glycerin and apple pectin mixture.

It’s best to blend it while it’s still hot so the mixture sets more easily.

Let it sit for about 15 minutes to finish setting before applying it.

Leave it on your face for another 15 minutes, then rinse with warm water.

Next, you can apply a facial oil, or a blend of oils, that you like.

OTHER NATURAL GELLING AGENTS

Also, when it comes to gelling, you can use tragacanth gum instead of the commonly used xanthan gum.

It’s not that xanthan gum is harmful—we know it’s of natural origin—but we also know it’s been synthesized in a lab. In fact, xanthan gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation. And it’s very common in natural cosmetics because, since it’s synthesized in a lab, it’s much cheaper to produce than any other natural gum.

Tragacanth gum and xanthan gum are natural thickeners and gelling agents used in cosmetics, but they differ significantly in texture, stability, and cost. While xanthan gum is the modern standard due to its high efficiency and stability, tragacanth gum stands out for providing a more luxurious, silky texture and superior stability in complex emulsions.

NATURAL GUMS

Natural gums are some of our greatest allies when designing our formulations. The limited range of ingredients allowed in natural cosmetics makes their use almost essential. When developing our formulations, they are useful both functionally—to achieve the desired viscosity—and to create a texture that feels beautiful and pleasant on the skin.

In addition, gums allow us to create structures with a texture suited to their intended purpose, such as face masks or shower gels. Due to their versatility and ease of use , they are also used in more conventional cosmetics, as they are an excellent choice for adding natural value to formulations, being environmentally friendly and, most importantly, gentle on the skin.

The main natural gums in natural cosmetics, used as thickeners, stabilizers, and gelling agents, are xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, tara gum, and locust bean gum.  Among these, tragacanth gum stands out as one of the most elegant and luxurious options.

All natural gums provide smooth textures, retain moisture, and improve the viscosity of creams, gels, and shampoos without using petroleum derivatives.

  • Xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) The most widely used. It is an inexpensive and effective product. An excellent emulsion stabilizer and thickener, it provides a smooth, non-sticky feel.
  • Tragacanth gum (INCI: Astragalus Gummifer Gum). This would be the ideal substitute for the previous one, especially when creating gels and serums. It may, however, require a higher concentration to achieve the same level of thickness. It is also somewhat more expensive and harder to find than xanthan gum.
  • Acacia gum (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum). Known for its adhesive properties, it is widely used in mascaras and setting products.
  • Guar gum (INCI: Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum). Highly versatile, ideal for shampoos and gels, it provides viscous textures.
  • Sclerotium gum (INCI: Sclerotium Gum). Known for producing very clear gels with a silky feel.
  • Konjac gum or glucomannan (INCI: Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract). With excellent moisturizing properties, it is often used to thicken and firm face masks.
  • Tara gum (INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa). It offers great stability and is excellent for delicate textures, acting as an intermediate thickener.
  • Karaya gum (INCI: Karaya gum). This is a film-forming agent that creates a thin, flexible protective layer on the skin’s surface, helping to retain moisture and protect against external aggressors. It is also used as a binder in compact makeup or powder products, helping to maintain the cohesion of the ingredients.
  • Locust bean gum (INCI: Locust bean gum). A versatile thickener that improves texture and creaminess in emulsions.

These gums are biodegradable, suitable for vegan cosmetics, and help improve the rheology* of natural formulations.

*The rheology of cosmetic products refers to the control of a cream’s viscosity and texture. The goal is to ensure the product spreads easily but doesn’t drip from the container.

Some of these are also widely used in the food industry; if you check food labels, you may recognize some of them.

DETAILED COMPARISON OF XANTHAN GUM AND TRAGACANTH GUM IN COSMETIC GELATION:

1. Xanthan Gum

It is a natural polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, very common in natural cosmetics.

Texture: It creates clear gels but sometimes has a “sticky” or “slippery” texture (brittle gel) if not combined correctly.

Performance: Thickens significantly at very low concentrations (0.1%–1%).

Stability: Excellent stability across a wide range of pH levels (acidic to alkaline) and temperatures.

Ideal use: Serums, clear gels, hair styling gels, and emulsion stabilization (creams/lotions).

Key advantage: Dissolves easily (preferably in glycerin or water) and is very stable.

2. Tragacanth Gum

It is a natural resin extracted from the Astragalus plant.

Texture: Produces softer, creamier gels with superior viscosity (more viscous than xanthan). Provides a luxurious, non-sticky feel, making it ideal for high-end creams.

Emulsification: It has better emulsifying and stabilizing properties in complex emulsions than xanthan gum. It differs from other thickeners in its ability to form stable gels and its resistance to high temperatures. It degrades less than any other thickener because it is a resin-based gum.

Yield: It requires a higher concentration to gel compared to xanthan gum.

Ideal uses: Thick creams, toothpaste, high-end lotions, and hair care gels that require a creamy texture.

Key advantage: Superior stability and superior sensory properties (smoother).

COMPARISON OF THE DIFFERENT USES OF TRAGACANTH GUM VERSUS GUM ARABIC

Origin:

Tragacanth gum: Obtained from the dried exudate of the roots and stems of the Astragalus shrub, which grows primarily in the Middle East (Iran, Turkey).

Gum arabic: Extracted from the sap of the Acacia tree (Senegalia and Vachellia species), primarily from Africa.

Properties and structure:

When tragacanth gum comes into contact with water, it forms a thick, viscous gel (mucilage) and swells considerably. It is a very powerful thickener, often requiring only half the amount needed compared to other gums.

Gum arabic, on the other hand, dissolves in water to form a clear, viscous liquid. It does not form a gel, but it works excellently as an emulsifier (it binds oil and water together) and a stabilizer.

In summary: Use tragacanth if you want a rigid, gel-like structure (for cosmetic gels) and gum arabic if you want to bind or stabilize a liquid (emulsions, coatings).

THE ADDITIONAL PROPERTIES OF TRAGACANTH GUM IN COSMETICS

As a gum of resinous origin, obtained by incising the stems of various Astragalus species, it tends to degrade less than other thickeners and better withstand high temperatures.

In natural medicine, tragacanth gum—the dried sap of Astragalus gummifer (  )—is used for its mucilaginous properties, acting as a mild laxative for constipation and helping to relieve diarrhea by forming gel balls in the intestine.

Additionally, it is used topically for its skin-soothing, moisturizing, and firming properties.

Procedure: To form the gels, it can be added to either cold or hot water, although it is always best to slightly heat the mixture; around 50°C should be sufficient. The resulting gels are not transparent but remain stable as long as the pH is maintained around 5.00.

Tip: As with xanthan gum, it is advisable to pre-disperse the gum in a glycol such as glycerin to prevent clumping and facilitate dispersion and wetting. To check the viscosity, wait 24 hours; this is when the gum reaches its maximum viscosity, not before.

NATURAL EMULSIFIERS

Currently, when we want to emulsify a cream or lotion with an aqueous phase (W/O emulsions), we use a synthetic emulsifying wax such as Montanov 68 (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) or one of the many others available today.

But did you know that it is possible to emulsify these types of creams and lotions (W/O) using only completely natural emulsifiers like beeswax or candelilla wax if we add a small amount of borax or cold-processed natural soap flakes?

In the past, it was even possible to use lanolin alcohol (INCI: Lanolin Alcohol), but today this product is hard to find in cosmetic supply stores becaus , everything that is synthetically processed is easier and cheaper to obtain. On the other hand, it is widely used on an industrial scale.

LANOLIN ALCOHOL

Lanolin alcohol is a yellowish-looking wax. It is the highly refined unsaponifiable fraction of lanolin, composed of a complex mixture of cholesterol, lanosterol, and their dihydro derivatives, as well as straight-chain and branched-chain aliphatic alcohols. Lanolin alcohol is one of the most effective nonionic (w/o) emulsifying agents available and also increases the water-absorbing capacity of mixtures to a greater extent than any other cosmetic alcohol (cetyl alcohol, etc.).

Lanolin alcohol is also used for its emollient and emulsion-stabilizing properties in creams and lotions. Furthermore, lanolin alcohol is widely known for its hair-smoothing and repairing effects in hair care products.

As mentioned, lanolin alcohol is composed of the non-saponifiable components of anhydrous lanolin. It is used in cosmetics as a thickener and as a water-in-oil emulsifier. Lanolin alcohols retain approximately six times their own weight in water.

As a base in ointments, it is typically used in combination with other emulsifiers such as cetyl alcohol, beeswax, or lanolin.

Lanolin alcohol can be used in small amounts as a thickener in shampoos and shower gels.

When mixed with beeswax or cetyl alcohol, the emulsifying capacity of lanolin can be increased. Melting point: 45–55 degrees Celsius.

Unfortunately, these traditional products derived from natural raw materials are hard to find in cosmetic supply stores since processed alternatives are easier and cheaper to obtain. Furthermore, manufacturers of synthetic substitutes for these products engage in negative advertising to disparage them.

For example, borax is said to cause infertility, yet it is used as an irreplaceable preservative in certain foods like caviar. Or lanolin alcohol, and lanolin itself (an entirely organic product of animal origin), are said to be likely to cause allergies.

Logically, everything is capable of causing allergies in certain people, including peanut butter; but that does not mean that a product does not have greater “bioavailability” for most of us than a fully synthetic product that our bodies do not recognize.

However, WOOL ALCOHOLS, due to their excellent skin properties, are ubiquitous in the composition of numerous commercial cosmetic products:

Such as ointments, moisturizers, lotions, soaps, face masks, sunscreens, makeup, face powders, makeup removers, eye shadows, lipsticks, nail polish removers, hair sprays, shampoos, shaving creams, baby oils, diaper rash lotions, hemorrhoid treatments, adhesive bandages, veterinary products, etc. …

A RECIPE FOR A HOMEMADE OINTMENT EMULSIFIED WITH LANOLIN ALCOHOL

This homemade recipe produces an intensely moisturizing and emollient cream, ideal for very dry, cracked skin or for very dry areas such as elbows and heels.

Lanolin alcohol acts as an excellent natural emulsifier, allowing water to be mixed with oils to create a stable emulsion.

Ingredients:

  • Oily Phase (Oils/Waxes):
    • 2 tablespoons of lanolin alcohol
    • 1 tablespoon of shea butter or cocoa butter (to thicken)
    • 3–4 tablespoons of sweet almond, olive, or jojoba oil
  • Aqueous Phase (Water):
    • 4 tablespoons distilled water, hydrosol (rose water), or aloe vera gel*
    • *The best commercial aloe vera gel, which already contains preservatives and will help preserve our cream.
  • Additives (Optional):
    • 1 capsule of Vitamin E (antioxidant for the skin and the cream)
    • 3–5 drops of essential oil (lavender, chamomile) for fragrance.

*Lanolin alcohol (INCI: Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol) is also known as lanolin alcohol and wool alcohol. It is produced by the reaction between lanolin and acetic acid. Lanolin is a fat derived from wool shearing. Acetylated lanolin alcohol is an emulsifying agent for water-in-oil emulsions. It is emollient and soothes irritated and chapped skin. It is naturally water-repellent. It forms an occlusive layer on the skin, preventing moisture from escaping into the atmosphere, and makes the skin softer and smoother.

Bibliography: “Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary,” by M. Varinia Michalun, Joseph C. DiNardo

STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE

  1. Preparation of the Oil Phase: In a heat-resistant glass bowl (Pyrex), add the lanolin, shea butter, and almond oil.
  2. Double Boiler: Heat the ingredients over low heat until they melt completely and are homogeneous. Do not let it boil.
  3. Heating the Aqueous Phase: Heat the distilled water and aloe vera or hydrosol in another container. Both phases (oil and aqueous) must be at a similar temperature (approx. 50–60°C) to prevent the emulsion from breaking.
  4. Emulsification (Mixing): Remove the oil phase from the heat. Slowly pour the water into the oil while continuously whisking with a small hand mixer or a whisk.
  5. Cooling and Thickening: The mixture will begin to turn white and thicken as it cools. Continue whisking for a few minutes.
  6. Final Additives: When the cream is lukewarm or cool, add heat-sensitive active ingredients such as Vitamin E and essential oils. Stir well.
  7. Packaging: Transfer to a clean, sterilized glass jar.

SAFETY AND USAGE NOTES

  • Storage: Since it contains no synthetic preservatives, this cream lasts approximately 1–2 weeks when stored in a cool place. You’ll likely use it up before then. If you’ve added commercial aloe gel, which already contains its own preservatives, it will likely have a longer shelf life. If you notice an off odor or color change, discard it. It is therefore advisable to prepare only a small amount of this ointment—just what you need—so it doesn’t go bad.
  • Texture: It is a heavy cream, ideal for nighttime use or intensive repair.

ABOUT HONEY, GLYCERIN, AND SHEA BUTTER

It is generally believed that creams with an aqueous phase are better absorbed by the skin than balms that contain only butters, waxes, and natural oils. In principle, this is true. These creams, which contain hydrosols or floral waters, are more moisturizing than balms without an aqueous phase.

However, let’s not forget that a basic skincare routine already includes the use of facial toners and floral waters.

So, simply moisturizing a bit before applying a water-free cream-balm is enough to achieve the same effect, with the added benefit that our homemade balm will stay fresh for months without needing synthetic preservatives or other substances that can be harsh and irritate our skin’s protective barrier with daily use.

Given this situation, it’s always a good idea to explore and look for recipes for water-free creams and balms that are moisturizing and nourishing for the skin. And this is exactly what happens when we add small amounts of highly moisturizing natural ingredients like honey, glycerin, or shea butter to our facial balm.

These ingredients, in small amounts, can turn our water-free cream into a luxury for our skin. That’s because they are considered self-preserving ingredients, meaning they don’t spoil, even when stored at room temperature and without added preservatives.

They also give the balms emollient properties that allow our creams to absorb very well without the need for an aqueous phase and, therefore, without the need for synthetic preservatives.

A VERY SIMPLE CREAMY COMBINATION

All you need to do is combine shea butter with coconut oil.

Although shea butter is generally more moisturizing and nourishing for very dry skin, coconut oil is highly moisturizing, and when combined with shea butter, it forms a protective layer on the skin that deeply hydrates it.

All you need is one tablespoon of pure, unscented shea butter and a couple of tablespoons of coconut oil. Place the mixture in a double boiler, and once melted, whisk it with a whisk.

In this simple way, you’ll get a highly moisturizing and nourishing cream/balm without a water phase that needs nothing else—just vitamin E (to prevent oxidation and rancidity of the fats) and, optionally, a few drops of a high-quality essential oil.

Of course, you can add more and different oils, but you’ll find that this simple combination alone delivers great results.

A RECIPE FOR A CREAM WITH HONEY AND ZINC OXIDE TO PREVENT SUNSPOTS

This cream, in addition to containing honey, contains a small amount of zinc oxide, which provides sufficient sun protection to prevent sunspots when used daily as a day cream. Furthermore, the addition of cocoa powder prevents the zinc oxide from leaving a white cast on the face.

Ingredients for a jar of approx. 100 g of cream:

70 g of an infused oil of your choice*, e.g., calendula if you have sensitive skin

8 g of beeswax

0.8 g zinc oxide + 0.6 g cocoa powder, which we will mix and grind beforehand in a ceramic mortar.

1 tablespoon of honey

1 tablespoon of shea butter

1 tablespoon of wheat germ oil or 1 small vitamin E capsule*

*Vitamin E makes your skin less prone to sunburn by limiting the cellular damage caused by the sun.

*If you use an oil infusion of a balsamic resin (such as copal, frankincense, myrrh, etc.) or even bakuchiol, they have a similar effect on the skin as retinol or vitamin A.

PREPARATION:

As mentioned, first grind and mix the zinc oxide and cocoa powder in a ceramic mortar so that both can fully incorporate into the oil mixture.

Next, place the beeswax and the resin oil in a bowl over a double boiler, and once melted, add the shea butter and the zinc oxide and cocoa mixture.

While stirring constantly, finally add the honey and the vitamin E capsules, which are heat-sensitive. Then remove the mixture from the heat.

We’ll transfer it to a small glass jar for optimal preservation. Since this cream has no aqueous phase, it doesn’t require preservatives—just vitamin E to prevent oxidation. As a result, it has a fairly long shelf life.

STORAGE: We will undoubtedly use it up long before any of its components can go rancid. In any case, this type of cream without an aqueous phase does not, in principle, have an expiration date. We would like to add that we have used a copal oil infusion—that is, copal resin infused in oil—and this type of oil infusion does not even go rancid.

NATURAL RESINS IN HOMEMADE COSMETICS

Natural resins offer a viable and eco-friendly alternative to synthetic solvents. Unlike many chemicals, they are easily biodegradable and do not cause long-lasting pollution. This characteristic makes them the preferred choice for those who wish to reduce their ecological footprint. Therefore, their use not only helps preserve the environment but also promotes a more eco-friendly industry.

As we have mentioned on other occasions, what is biodegradable is also generally more bioavailable.

In homemade cosmetics, natural resins work wonderfully as active ingredients. For example, in the form of oleations and powdered gums, they can be incorporated into homemade lip balms to create a smooth, protective texture. Similarly, benzoin extracts are perfect for making antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory lotions.

They can also be dissolved in warm oils (infused and macerated) to create beneficial infused oils. Once blended with other vegetable oils, they become powerful serums to regenerate and hydrate the skin.

Resins—whether from copal, frankincense, myrrh, etc.—provide so many natural antioxidants that they prevent the fats with which they are macerated from oxidizing easily. Likewise, the antioxidants they provide to the skin stimulate collagen production and protect against environmental damage.

NATURAL VEGETABLE OILS AND HERBAL EXTRACTS

Some herbal extracts also possess the regenerative and antioxidant properties of resins. To stimulate collagen production, promote skin regeneration, and prevent the appearance of dark spots and sunspots, we can turn to potent plant extracts such as ginseng, turmeric, licorice, arbutin or bearberry, and the combination of chamomile and green tea…

It is very easy to make a natural serum by combining a high-quality oil, such as marula oil, with plant-based bakuchiol extract.

Bakuchiol extract is a natural alternative to retinol that offers similar benefits for the skin but with less irritation. It stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves elasticity and firmness, and protects against environmental damage. It is also a powerful antioxidant and can help soothe sensitive skin.

Or a serum whose efficacy is backed by numerous current studies, simply combining castor oil and sea buckthorn oil.

“Studies on the combination of sea buckthorn oil and castor oil highlight a powerful synergy for skin health, as it combines the intense, deeply moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties of castor oil with the highly antioxidant, vitamin-rich, and regenerative properties of sea buckthorn oil. This combination is frequently used to treat mature, dry skin or skin with a damaged barrier, and there is evidence suggesting improvements in skin elasticity, moisture retention, and radiance.”

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6589177

Castor oil is a thick, viscous oil rich in ricinoleic acid, a fatty acid with anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. Traditionally, it has been used as a laxative, a skin care remedy, and a hair treatment. The commercial cosmetics industry, backed by current studies, is using this oil in many of its products because of its wide range of properties for treating mature skin, moisturizing it, and preventing skin aging.

Regular castor oil is extracted by cold-pressing raw castor seeds, without heat or chemicals. It has a light yellow color, a smooth texture, and a neutral pH (~4.5–5.5). It therefore contains no ash or roasting residues.

Black castor oil is made by roasting the castor seeds before pressing, which darkens the oil. It often contains ash (from the burnt seed husks or wood) during extraction, which raises its pH to ~8–9. It is thicker, and its color ranges from amber to dark brown, with a characteristic smoky aroma.

If we are going to use castor oil in our natural skin care products, it is better to use pure castor oil, as it has a milder pH. If we want to moisturize our hair, black castor oil is a valid option, as is traditionally done in many cultures in Polynesia, Jamaica, Tahiti, etc…

In natural cosmetics, it is important to choose a high-quality castor oil: “High-quality castor oil is typically 100% pure, cold-pressed, solvent-free, and hexane-free, and appears as a thick, viscous liquid that is pale yellow or golden in color. It has a mild aroma, with a slight nutty or earthy note, and contains approximately 90% ricinoleic acid, which contributes to its high density, stability, and moisturizing properties for the skin and hair.”

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5015816

A very strong, pungent odor, or in some cases, an odorless scent (unless it has been deodorized) may indicate poor quality or oxidation.

The same applies to the other oils we’ll be using in our facial serum. To ensure they retain all their natural properties and truly benefit us, it’s important that they be pure and cold-pressed.

THE RECIPE:

We would mix 3 parts castor oil to 1 part sea buckthorn oil, for example.

You can add a third high-quality oil to your serum, such as argan, camellia, baobab seed, or marula oil, in which case the proportions would be: 2 parts castor oil to 2 parts argan oil and 1 part sea buckthorn oil, which is very potent.

STEARIC ACID

Another plant-based emulsifying and texturizing agent—and therefore highly biocompatible—is stearic acid.

Stearic acid is extremely popular in organic and natural cosmetics because it is a versatile fatty acid, commonly derived from plant sources (such as palm oil, coconut oil, or shea butter), that fulfills multiple essential functions without the need for petroleum-derived synthetics. It is valued for being a safe, non-comedogenic ingredient (it does not clog pores) and for its ability to improve the texture and stability of products.

Here are the main reasons for its widespread use:

Emollient and softening: It works by softening and smoothing the skin, which helps keep it hydrated and strengthen the skin barrier, protecting it against dryness and irritation.

Natural thickener and stabilizer: It is essential for giving consistency (texture) to creams, lotions, and body butters without the need for synthetic thickeners. It helps prevent water- and oil-based ingredients from separating.

Cleanser and emulsifier: In soaps and facial cleansers, it helps remove dirt and sebum without stripping the skin of its natural oils. It also adds firmness to handmade soap bars.

Enhances the sensory experience: It gives the final products a rich, velvety texture, eliminating the “watery” feel of some natural formulations.

Compatibility: It is found naturally in the skin itself (and is therefore bioavailable) and in many vegetable butters, making it suitable for all skin types.

CREAM RECIPE with STEARIC ACID as a co-emulsifier

This cream with stearic acid, by incorporating borax into its aqueous phase, does not require the addition of synthetic preservatives. And if, instead of xanthan gum, you add gum arabic (acacia gum) or tragacanth gum, you will further enrich the product.

Ingredients for approximately 120 ml of cream:

18 g avocado oil

16 g shea butter

10 g beeswax

2 g orange or rose vegetable wax

2 g stearic acid

Water phase:

40 g rose hydrosol

20 g geranium hydrosol

One tablespoon of borax (between 3 and 4 g)

And 0.6 g xanthan gum or 1 g gum arabic*

Optional: A blend of rose, neroli, helichrysum, and yarrow essential oils. Never use more than 10 drops to avoid irritation on sensitive skin.

*Acacia gum does not gel as well as xanthan gum and does not form thick gels. However, it works better for stabilizing emulsions (binding water and oil) and provides a silkier, smoother, and lighter texture than xanthan gum, which can sometimes feel sticky if used in excess.

PROCEDURE:

1. Start by melting the oil phase in a double boiler (perhaps in a heat-resistant container, such as Pyrex). First, melt the beeswax, followed by the vegetable oils and waxes, and the stearic acid.

2. Separately, mix the tablespoon of borax into the hydrosols along with the xanthan gum and/or acacia gum. (Xanthan gum will only disperse in the aqueous phase. It won’t dissolve and emulsio ly until we combine the two phases.) It’s best to warm the aqueous phase so it’s at a similar temperature to the oil phase.

3. Now add the aqueous phase to the oil phase, in that order, while stirring constantly. It will soon begin to thicken, but if necessary, use an electric mixer to speed up the emulsification and ensure the mixture blends thoroughly.

4. Remove the mixture from the double boiler. Now is the time to add the essential oils, if you’ve decided to do so. At this point, you’ll start to see how your cream turns out. Pour it into a glass jar, preferably, and let it sit at room temperature until it takes on a creamy, solid consistency.

BENEFITS OF USING NATURAL EMULSIFIERS IN OUR HOMEMADE COSMETIC FORMULAS

Once again, it’s worth noting that a naturally emulsified cream or product offers a greater number of benefits for our skin, which will depend on the specific organic ingredients used.

It is also much more bioavailable, which is particularly beneficial for preventing issues in sensitive and reactive skin.

But it also keeps much better, in a completely natural way, often eliminating the need for synthetic preservatives.

For example, adding borax to beeswax emulsions eliminates the need for other types of preservatives, as borax (a naturally occurring mineral substance) is a fully bioavailable ingredient.

Something similar occurs with lanolin alcohol, which prevents rapid degradation, especially when honey or glycerin is added to the recipe.

ABOUT BORAX

Borax, or sodium tetraborate, is an inorganic compound containing boron and sodium. Boric acid and borax occur naturally in water and soil. Borax is also found as a white, water-soluble mineral. The name “borax” comes from the word “buraq,” which means “white” in Arabic and refers to its color.

One of borax’s most notable properties is its solubility in water. It dissolves slowly in cold water, but when heated, its solubility increases considerably. Borax is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb moisture from the air. To maintain its flow and prevent caking, it should be stored in its original container, in a dry, sealed place.

Certain official bodies (perhaps influenced by commercial interests, given that borax is much cheaper and easier to obtain than any other synthetic preservative) claim that borax is harmful to the body, but those of us with sensitive skin who have tried all kinds of synthetic preservatives can assure you that the opposite is true. Also, consider that society is sometimes very hypocritical, as it expresses reservations about borax—for which there are hardly any documented side effects (it is said to cause infertility when ingested in high doses)—yet casually uses sodium benzoate, even though it has been shown to damage cellular mitochondria.

On the other hand, you should know that borax is used as a food preservative, without hesitation, in products like caviar. What a contradiction, don’t you think? It turns out that it’s a food-grade preservative safe for ingestion, but it shouldn’t be used in natural cosmetics. Curious, isn’t it?

Boric acid and borax in food

Boron occurs naturally in foods (and is therefore bioavailable) as borate (B4O7²⁻) or boric acid. The richest sources of boron are fruits, leafy vegetables, legumes, and nuts. Wine, cider, and beer also contain high levels of boron. Dairy products, fish, meats, and most grains are poor sources.

For the general population, the primary source of boron exposure comes from oral intake of food, primarily fruits and vegetables. The World Health Organization (WHO) has estimated that the average daily intake for the population is approximately 1.2 mg of boron through the diet, which falls well within the safe range of average intakes for adults (1.0–13 mg of boron/day) suggested by the WHO.

Its traditional use as a food additive

Boric acid and borax have long been used as additives in various foods. Since boric acid and borax are effective against yeasts and, to a much lesser extent, against molds and bacteria, they can be used to preserve food products. https://www.cfs.gov.hk/english/multimedia/multimedia_pub/multimedia_pub_fsf_37_01.html

In 1961, the Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA) concluded that boric acid and borax were not suitable for use as food additives. However, their use is still permitted in caviar in the European Union because a more suitable preservative has not been found.

Health Effects of Boric Acid and Borax

At low concentrations, borax can be converted into boric acid in the body before absorption. In humans, adverse reactions associated with low daily doses of boric acid are believed to be unlikely.

However, exposure to large amounts of boric acid (which would also occur if one were to drink 50 liters of water all at once) over a short period of time can affect the stomach, intestines, liver, kidneys, and brain, and cause adverse effects on development and reproduction. Testicular damage and fertility problems have been observed in laboratory animals given high doses of boric acid in their diet. However, there is no evidence that boric acid is genotoxic or carcinogenic.

Tolerable Daily Intake

The WHO has established a tolerable daily intake (TDI) of 0.16 mg of boron per kilogram of body weight in its guidelines for drinking water.

Borax as Medicine

Borax is not only a harmless preservative and co-emulsifier, but it is even medicinal in the right doses, as can be read in this article.

Borax in natural cosmetics

Although it is possible to emulsify natural vegetable waxes—and, of course, beeswax—with shavings of “cold-processed natural soap” (which we will dissolve in the aqueous phase), the use of borax offers undeniable advantages, such as a more stable and creamy texture, and better performance of our product without the need to add extra synthetic preservatives. Borax acts as both a chemical co-emulsifier and a natural preservative. It therefore makes it easier for us to create simple, minimalist homemade cosmetics.

RECIPE for a SIMPLE BASE CREAM emulsified with borax

This is a very simple yet effective “base cream.” You can add active ingredients of your choice, such as honey or natural glycerin, to make it more emollient and moisturizing.

Ingredients for about 100 grams of product:

30 g sweet almond oil

10 g beeswax

60 g distilled water, or hydrosol if you want a pleasant scent

One teaspoon of borax (approx. 1.5 g)

PROCEDURE:

1. Start by melting the beeswax in a double boiler (perhaps in a heat-resistant container, such as Pyrex), and once it’s melted, add the oil and keep stirring until the oil phase is completely melted and incorporated.

2. Separately, dissolve the teaspoon of borax in the distilled water or hydrosol. It’s best to warm the aqueous phase so it’s at a similar temperature to the oil phase.

3. Now add the aqueous phase to the oil phase, in that order, while continuing to stir. It will soon begin to thicken, but if necessary, use an electric mixer to speed up the emulsification and ensure the mixture blends thoroughly.

4. Remove the mixture from the double boiler. You’ll start to see how your cream turns out. Pour it into a glass jar, preferably, and let it sit at room temperature until it takes on a creamy, solid consistency.

You’ll see that a cream as simple as this one is incredibly useful for daily and frequent use, as it can also be applied to the body and not just the face. Furthermore, since it doesn’t require synthetic preservatives, it’s very pleasant to use and has no side effects such as possible irritation, etc.


Discover more from Naturamatters blog

Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.

Leave a Reply