DIY Natural Skin Care: Honey and Glycerine Recipes

In this blog on natural cosmetics, we aim to provide our readers with enjoyable and informal recipes for natural cosmetics for face and body skin care that are as simple and free of synthetic preservatives as possible.

Today, we know that many migraines, swellings, allergies and atopic dermatitis are often caused by ‘dysbiosis‘ (an imbalance in the microbiota), which can be oral, intestinal and even cutaneous, as we know that microorganisms are everywhere: in our intestines, in our mouth, on our skin, in our mucous membranes… and we know the importance of the “eubiosis” (balance) of all this microbiota that is part of us. This microbiota is responsible for making us feel good after eating, for our skin looking beautiful and free of eczema, and even for us not feeling tired and stressed and for our memory working accurately.

You may have noticed that honey has been grabbing all the attention in natural skin care lately. This is because honey, in addition to being a highly bioavailable natural product, has the ability to regulate our skin microflora , facilitating its natural balance or “eubiosis” as it combats harmful microorganisms by regulating and respecting the eubiotic microflora. This is the opposite of what happens with preservatives and synthetic antibiotics. And that is what it is all about: finding substances with “regulating” rather than biocidal properties to treat health problems in general and skin problems in particular.

Honey has a special place in any skincare routine thanks to its healing properties and its ability to soften, brighten, nourish and regulate the skin’s microflora.

The same is true of vegetable glycerine, another product widely used in natural cosmetics because it allows us to obtain plant extracts that do not degrade, and because when added to a formulation it contributes to the preservation of the whole and has an important moisturising effect on the skin. This organic and bioavailable substance helps to maintain the hydration of the epidermis and mitigate dermatological problems such as acne or dermatitis.

HONEY: A valuable ingredient in homemade natural cosmetics

If you’ve never thought about including honey in your skincare routine, you’re in for a surprise. In this article, we explore why honey is good for the skin, six benefits of honey for the skin that you may not know about, and how to incorporate honey into your daily skincare routine.

BEES BEAUTIFY OUR LIVES

Bees are crucial in natural cosmetics thanks to ingredients such as wax, honey, propolis, and venom, which offer benefits such as hydration, protection, and regeneration. Beeswax forms a protective barrier, honey is a natural moisturiser and antioxidant, propolis has antibacterial properties, and bee venom is used for its Botox-like tightening effect. These ingredients are used in a wide range of products, from creams and balms to shampoos and make-up.

Therefore, from the beeswax we use to emulsify our creams and balms, to the propolis tincture or honey we use in our homemade cosmetic preparations, all these natural active ingredients come from bees.

And why is this so and not otherwise?

It is because honey and its derivatives are organic products with high bioavailability. There is a reason why bees are said to come from the planet Venus. Without them and their products, it would be unthinkable to conceive of homemade cosmetics for moisturising and beautifying.

KEY INGREDIENTS FROM THE HIVE AND THEIR BENEFITS:

  • Beeswax:
    • Protection: Creates a natural barrier that retains moisture and protects the skin from external aggressors such as wind and cold, without clogging the pores.
    • Hydration: It is an excellent moisturiser, leaving the skin supple and soft.
    • Uses: Found in creams, lip balms, lipsticks and hand lotions.
  • Honey:
    • Hydration and shine: A natural moisturiser that hydrates and adds shine to hair and skin.
    • Antioxidant and antibacterial: Protects against free radicals and is useful for treating acne and inflammation.
    • Uses: Found in creams, masks, conditioners, and exfoliants.
  • Propolis:
    • Antibacterial and antifungal: Helps fight acne and promotes a healthy complexion.
    • Uses: Found in cleansers, serums and spot treatments.
  • Bee venom:
    • Lifting effect: Stimulates collagen and elastin production for firmer skin, with a tightening effect similar to Botox.
    • Uses: Used in anti-ageing creams and treatments.

WHY IS HONEY GOOD FOR THE SKIN?

Studies such as this one from the link: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24305429/ confirm that honey has numerous components that promote skin health. Manuka honey in particular. Below is an overview of its therapeutic properties:

Anti-inflammatory properties: Honey has a strong anti-inflammatory effect when applied topically, making it useful for a variety of inflammatory skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis.

Antimicrobial and antibacterial properties: Honey has the ability to fight skin infections thanks to its powerful antimicrobial, antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Promotes healing and cell regeneration: Due to Manuka honey’s unique ability to promote healing and cell regeneration, it is widely used by medical professionals for wound and burn care. Honey is also an effective remedy for chapped and dry lips.

Natural moisturiser and hydrator: Honey is a natural moisturiser and hydrator. It draws moisture into the skin, making it useful for treating dry skin and combating ageing.

Beneficial nutrients: Honey contains amino acids, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for fighting free radicals and improving overall skin health.

SIX BENEFITS OF HONEY FOR THE SKIN THAT WILL SURPRISE YOU

Now that you know why honey is good for your skin, let’s explore six benefits of honey for your skin that you may not be aware of.

1. Honey deeply hydrates and moisturises the skin.

The natural moisturising properties of honey make it an effective moisturiser. The enzymatic activity of honey allows it to penetrate deep into the skin and provide hydration to the underlying layers. The result is smoother, softer skin with a natural, radiant glow.

2. Honey reduces the signs of premature ageing.

Honey attracts moisture from the air and retains it in the skin. This extra hydration gives the skin a fresh, youthful glow and greater suppleness, making fine lines and wrinkles less visible. Honey also contains natural antioxidants that fight free radicals, one of the main causes of premature ageing.

3. Honey is an effective pore cleanser and gentle exfoliant.

Honey is naturally antibacterial and exfoliating. These properties make it an effective natural pore cleanser to remove deep dirt and debris that can clog pores and contribute to skin problems.

4. Honey lightens scars and hyperpigmentation.

Honey contains a small amount of hydrogen peroxide. This gives it gentle lightening properties, which help reduce acne scars and hyperpigmentation over time. These same properties also make honey an effective choice for brightening a dull complexion.

5. Honey fights acne and breakouts.

The antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of honey play an important role in reducing acne and breakouts. These properties reduce the bacteria that cause pimples and blackheads. It also treats the redness and inflammation associated with breakouts.

6. Honey soothes sunburn.

Honey is commonly used in medical settings for the treatment of burns due to its ability to promote healing of damaged tissue and reduce inflammation. These same benefits can be useful for soothing and healing sunburn at home.

HOW TO USE HONEY FOR YOUR SKIN

There are many ways to reap the benefits of honey for your skin. Here are a few that you can easily incorporate into your daily skincare routine.

OUR HOME RECIPES WITH HONEY

Honey has the unique ability to promote skin cell regeneration and healing, while softening, brightening and lightening the skin. Incorporating honey into our daily routine promotes skin health naturally, making it an essential part of any skincare regimen.

REGENERATING FACE MASK WITH NATURAL HONEY

You won’t find more natural and nourishing ingredients for your skin than honey and yoghurt. This homemade mask consists of a simple mixture of both. A simple formula for a luxurious treatment at home.

You only need two ingredients, preferably organic:

One tablespoon of organic honey, such as orange blossom honey, manuka honey, etc.

One tablespoon of natural yoghurt (unsweetened).

Mix both ingredients in a bowl until you obtain a smooth paste. Apply to a clean face, avoiding the eye area, and leave on for 15-20 minutes. Remove with warm water and feel the results.

You will notice your skin is incredibly soft and radiant. The secret is to use pure honey so that all its nutrients penetrate the skin.

HAIR TREATMENT FOR “Split Ends”

Formulas from the hive are also a gift for your hair. To restore its life and shine, you can prepare this nourishing treatment.

Mix a couple of tablespoons of honey with a few drops of olive oil. Apply the mixture from the middle to the ends, wrap your hair in a warm towel and let the magic work for 30 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly with water.

Your hair will be stronger, shinier and silkier. Honey nourishes the hair follicle and helps seal in moisture, protecting it from external aggressions. For optimal results, the key is to use honey that retains all its properties. For example, raw, unfiltered honey.

Oh, and if you have a little of this mixture left over, don’t hesitate to apply it wherever you notice your skin is dry or tight. You’ll see that it works wonders there too.

TWO EXPRESS FORMULAS: EXFOLIANT AND LIP BALM

Sometimes the best solutions are the quickest. Here are two ideas for instant care:

Gentle body and lip scrub: Mix a tablespoon of honey with a little sugar or coffee grounds. Gently massage onto damp skin using circular movements and rinse off. Instantly renewed skin!

Repairing lip balm: If your lips feel dry or chapped, apply a thin layer of honey to them before going to bed. You’ll wake up with soft, repaired lips.

HONEY AND LEMON MASK for winter hands

In cold weather, our hands are constantly exposed to external aggressions that can significantly worsen their appearance. The result? They become rough and . That’s why it’s important to treat yourself to a moisturising mask from time to time.

Ingredients:

Two tablespoons of olive oil to protect and moisturise dry skin

Two tablespoons of honey to soften and nourish the skin

Optional: a few drops of lemon essential oil.

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl. Apply generously to your hands and nails and massage for a few minutes. For greater effectiveness, you can wear latex gloves. Leave the treatment on for 30 minutes before rinsing with warm water.

HONEY, COCONUT OIL AND LAVENDER SCRUB

This is a luxurious exfoliant recipe designed to relax you as if you were at a spa, as it not only exfoliates but also leaves your skin pampered and smelling divine.

Ingredients:

½ cup granulated sugar

¼ cup raw honey

¼ cup coconut oil

A few drops of lavender essential oil, which promotes relaxation

How to create this luxurious scrub:

Melt: Gently heat the coconut oil until it melts, then allow it to cool slightly.

Mix: Combine the cooled coconut oil with the honey and sugar in a bowl. Add a few drops of lavender essential oil for a relaxing aroma.

Apply: Use this aromatic mixture to gently exfoliate your body, focusing on rough areas such as elbows and knees.

Rinse: Rinse with warm water and enjoy skin that is not only smooth, but also luxuriously moisturised and delicately scented.

Why you should try it: Coconut oil is a fantastic moisturiser that works in harmony with the soothing properties of honey. Lavender adds a relaxing and therapeutic dimension to the scrub, making your skincare routine a luxurious and serene experience.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY HONEY AND TURMERIC MASK for acne-prone skin

The anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of turmeric, combined with the soothing effects of honey, make this mask a miracle worker for reducing acne and skin redness.

How to prepare:

Preparation: Mix 1 tablespoon of raw honey with 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder.

Application: Spread the paste evenly over your face.

Wait: Leave on for 20 minutes.

Rinsing: Wash with cold water and use a mild cleanser to remove any colour residue.

Why it works: Raw honey is a natural moisturiser, its antibacterial properties make it an excellent choice for acne-prone skin, while its soothing effect can relieve irritated and sensitive skin. When combined with ingredients such as turmeric, its anti-inflammatory benefits are enhanced.

HONEY AND AVOCADO MOISTURISING MASK for dry skin

For an intense dose of hydration, this creamy mask combines the moisturising properties of honey and avocado, leaving the skin soft and supple.

How to make it:

Mash: Mix 1 tablespoon of raw honey with 1/4 of a ripe avocado in a bowl.

Mix: stir until smooth.

Apply: Spread the mixture all over your face.

Relax: wait 20 minutes.

Rinse: Wash off with warm water.

Why it works: Raw honey is a natural moisturiser, its antibacterial properties make it an excellent choice for acne-prone skin, while its soothing effect can relieve irritated and sensitive skin. When combined with ingredients such as turmeric, its anti-inflammatory benefits are enhanced.

HONEY FACIAL CLEANSER

Incorporate lemon into your skincare routine with this brightening facial cleanser. The astringent properties of lemon complement the moisturising touch of honey for a clean and luminous complexion.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons of raw honey

1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice

How to prepare:

Mix: Mix the honey and lemon juice in a bowl until well combined.

Brighten: Gently massage the mixture onto your face, avoiding the eye area.

Rinse: Rinse with cold water to reveal fresh, glowing skin.

Why it works: Lemon juice, rich in vitamin C, works wonders to reduce dark spots and even out skin tone, while honey ensures that skin stays hydrated.

HONEY and SUGAR SCRAB

This exfoliator we have designed combines the natural antibacterial properties of honey with the exfoliating power of granulated sugar to offer a simple yet luxurious skincare treatment.

Sugar is an excellent natural exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells. Its fine grains allow for gentle yet effective exfoliation. In addition, sugar contains natural glycolic acids that promote cell renewal and help keep skin young and healthy.

Honey has exceptional antibacterial and moisturising properties. It acts as a humectant, helping the skin to retain moisture. It is also rich in antioxidants, which protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals.

Therefore, with this recipe combining honey and sugar, and a squeeze of lemon, mechanical exfoliation occurs thanks to the granulated sugar, as well as chemical exfoliation due to the synergistic combination of the antioxidants in honey, the brightening lemon juice and the natural glycolic acid contained in sugars.

Ingredients:

½ cup granulated sugar (white or brown, whichever you prefer!)

¼ cup raw honey

A splash of fresh lemon juice (optional, for extra shine)

How to prepare it:

Mix: In a bowl, mix the sugar and honey. If you are using lemon juice, add it now. Stir until you have a sticky, golden mixture.

Exfoliate: Apply this sweet mixture to damp skin using gentle circular motions. The sugar granules will remove dead skin cells, while the honey will moisturise and soothe.

Rinse: Rinse with warm water and pat your skin dry.

Why it works so well: This scrub has a triple effect: it exfoliates, brightens and moisturises. Sugar acts as a natural exfoliant, removing dead skin without harsh chemicals, while honey is a humectant that draws moisture to the skin and ensures it stays hydrated and supple.

OUR MINIMALIST RECIPES WITH HONEY AND GLYCERINE

DAY CREAM WITH SPF AND HONEY to prevent pigmentation spots

In this cream, the amount of zinc oxide we add will determine its ability to protect us from solar radiation. We must consider that zinc oxide has an SPF of approximately 15. Therefore, if you do the math, you will see how much you should add according to your needs. We have added 2 grams as standard.

Ingredients for a container of approximately 100 grams of cream:

70 g copal oil or bakuchiol oil*

6 g beeswax

1 teaspoon of zinc oxide and 1 teaspoon of cocoa powder, which we will mix and pulverise beforehand in a ceramic mortar.

1 teaspoon of honey

1 tablespoon of shea butter and

2 vitamin E capsules*

*Vitamin E makes the skin less prone to sunburn by limiting the cellular damage caused by the sun.

*Both balsamic resin oils (copal, frankincense, myrrh, etc.) and bakuchiol oil have a similar effect on the skin to retinol or vitamin A.

Bakuchiol, in particular, is a natural alternative to retinol that offers similar benefits for the skin, but with less irritation. It stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves elasticity and firmness, and protects against environmental damage. It is also a powerful antioxidant and can help soothe sensitive skin.

Resins, whether copal, frankincense, myrrh, etc., provide so many natural antioxidants that they prevent the fats with which they are macerated from oxidising easily. Similarly, the antioxidants they provide to the skin stimulate collagen production and protect against environmental damage.

Other oils to consider for stimulating collagen production, promoting skin regeneration and preventing the appearance of spots and sun lentigines are: ginseng, turmeric, liquorice, arbutin or uva ursi, cranberries, chamomile + green tea, etc.

PREPARATION:

As mentioned above, first pulverise and mix the zinc oxide and cocoa powder in a ceramic mortar so that both can be fully incorporated into the mixture with the oils.

Next, place the beeswax and copal oil in a double boiler and, once melted, add the shea butter and the zinc oxide and cocoa mixture.

Stirring continuously, finally add the honey and vitamin E capsules, which are heat-sensitive substances. Remove from the heat.

We will store it in a small glass jar so that it is preserved in the best possible way. As this cream does not contain any water, it does not need any preservatives, only vitamin E to prevent oxidation. This means that it has a fairly long shelf life.

The addition of honey gives this cream a unique moisturising sensation when applied to the skin. The effect is such that we will not miss a cream with an aqueous phase. However, we will avoid having to add synthetic preservatives.

STORAGE: We will undoubtedly finish it long before any of its components can go rancid. In any case, this type of cream without an aqueous phase does not, in principle, have an expiry date. This is even more so with the addition of honey, which, due to its intrinsic slightly antimicrobial nature, keeps it in perfect condition.

In addition, we would like to add that we have used a copal oil, that is, copal resin infused in olive oil, and this type of oil does not even go rancid. Virgin olive oil is also slightly antimicrobial in itself, and this, combined with the antioxidant properties of the resin, makes it a very durable oil/macerate.

THE OPTION with SPF 15: If you really want to protect your skin from the sun on a daily basis, this option will provide you with a stronger protective screen. To do this, we will add 2 g of zinc oxide + 1 g of cocoa powder, which we will mix and pulverise beforehand in the ceramic mortar.

THE BLEMISH BALM SUNSCREEN OPTION

As zinc oxide has a covering effect on the skin, leaving a white veil without the addition of cocoa powder, another idea is to add a “skin-coloured” mica instead of cocoa powder to create a blemish balm-type cream with sun protection factor. This cream would serve not only as a sunscreen but also as a mattifying base cream to cover skin imperfections.

BATH GEL for intimate areas

This simple and easy-to-prepare recipe is, however, indispensable for use as: a wash gel for intimate areas, a very gentle shower gel for problem skin, and a wonderful bath gel for babies’ sensitive skin.

Ingredients:

Two parts coconut betaine surfactant

One part honey

Or, if you prefer, for a 100 ml container, you will need:

Approximately 60 g of coconut betaine x

Approximately 40 g of honey

We have already discussed HONEY and its properties at length.

We would just like to add that COCONUT BETAINE is the mildest and most natural surfactant we can use on our skin. Betaine is a natural amino acid and osmolite, commonly derived from sugar beet, which plays a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration.

The gentle cleansing properties of betaine make it an excellent choice for sensitive skin, effectively removing impurities without stripping the skin of its natural moisture.

OLIVE OIL AND HONEY-BASED BATH OIL

35 g Turkey Red oil*, i.e. sulphated castor oil

30 g olive oil (pomace oil)

One tablespoon of honey (between 10-15 g)

One tablespoon of glycerine

Optionally, a mixture of geranium, lemon and petitgrain essential oils.

PREPARATION PROCEDURE:

Mix all the ingredients in a bottle and shake well to combine.

USE: Prepare a hot bath and add a few tablespoons of oil while the tap is still running. Due to the lemon essential oil, be sure to rinse thoroughly if you are going to be outdoors a few hours after your bath to avoid getting sunburned. However, if you are going to bed, don’t worry.

*Turkey Red Oil is also known as Sulphated Castor Oil. A process known as sulphation is used to manufacture Turkey Red Oil in which pure castor oil is exposed to sulphuric acid. This process has been known for more than a hundred years. Through this process, castor oil becomes miscible with water while still retaining its moisturising properties. Turkey Red Oil dissolves easily in water. This is especially suitable for the production of water-dispersible bath oils and personal care products. Other lipids and essential oils are also soluble in Turkey Red Oil.

SHOWER GEL FOR ATOPIC SKIN based on honey and coconut oil

Adding raw honey to the bath is known to moisturise and cleanse the skin at the same time. With the addition of coconut oil, it becomes a shower gel.

That is why we have created this recipe for homemade honey-based shower gel, which is suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive, such as babies’ skin or skin affected by dermatitis.

Ingredients for approximately 150 ml of product:

50 g coconut oil

50 g liquid honey

50 ml of coconut betaine

A few drops of your favourite essential oil, such as grapefruit, orange or even rosemary…

STORAGE: It will keep for about 3 months in optimal conditions, although the idea is that you use it up before then. Naturally!

PREPARATION:

Slowly heat the coconut oil in a bain-marie until it becomes liquid.

Add the honey and mix well.

Gradually add the liquid soap. Mix carefully to prevent foaming.

Finally, add the essential oils.

Stir well and pour into a pretty jar.

You may notice that the cleansing gel tends to separate, simply shake it before each use.

HONEY-BASED SHOWER GEL FOR ATOPIC SKIN

Adding raw honey to your bath is known to moisturise and cleanse the skin at the same time. That’s why we’ve created this homemade honey-based shower gel recipe, which is suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive, such as babies’ skin or skin affected by dermatitis.

Ingredients for approximately 100 grams of product:

25 g distilled water

5 g SCS surfactant

9.5 g liquid surfactant, such as coco glucoside (creates more lather) or simply coconut betaine, which is gentler on the skin.

3.5 g vegetable glycerine

50 g honey

About 10 drops of lactic acid, to compensate for the alkaline pH produced by the surfactants.

Optionally, if you want to achieve the orange colour of the shower gel in our photo, add a tablespoon of turmeric at the end, which is also excellent for detoxifying the skin.

PREPARATION:

Start by heating the distilled water, then begin to dissolve the SCS powdered surfactant in it, stirring gently until it is completely dissolved and integrated. If you see too many bubbles forming, you can spray a little alcohol on them to reduce them.

Add the liquid surfactant to the mixture, followed by the vegetable glycerine.

Finally, add the honey, stirring well, and the drops of lactic acid.

In the end, it’s just between us and the bees. 😊

VEGETABLE GLYCERINE

Glycerine is a clear, viscous liquid which, as we said, has moisturising and skin-protecting properties. It is an organic compound based on sugar alcohol with a viscous consistency and no colour, which is present in all natural fats, whether of animal or vegetable origin. This substance has the peculiarity that it must always be used diluted in water or mixed with other ingredients and oils, as this softens the skin. On the other hand, if we use it in its pure form, it dehydrates the epidermis.

Glycerine appears in the INCI of many commercial cosmetic formulations under the name “glycerol”. The word “glycerol” comes from the Greek Glykos (meaning sweet) and dates back to the 6th century BC, as the Phoenicians are credited with the alchemical knowledge of making glycerine soap.

GLYCERINE IS HIGHLY BIOAVAILABLE

Glycerine is even found in our own skin, which is why this ingredient is bioavailable, meaning it is compatible with the skin and easily absorbed by it. It is a substance that the skin needs when it is deficient. For all these reasons, it is very common to find it in the formulation of many cosmetic products, including soaps and emollient products.

Liquid glycerine of vegetable origin is a highly emollient (prevents water loss or dehydration) and hygroscopic product, therefore moisturising for the skin and hair, making it a staple in homemade cosmetics.

It is a powerful moisturiser that absorbs and retains moisture, making it ideal for all skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin.

Finally, it is an excellent solvent for integrating both organic and mineral ingredients into preparations, as well as an extractor of active ingredients in herbal macerations.

APPLICATIONS IN HOME-MADE NATURAL COSMETICS

One of the main qualities of vegetable glycerine is that it helps to restructure the lipids found in the stratum corneum. This results in an improvement and increase in skin elasticity.

This ingredient also helps to reduce the time it takes for wounds to heal. In fact, it has been proven to reduce this time by up to 25%. Therefore, it is a perfect ally for helping the skin recover more quickly. That is why many products for dry and damaged skin include it. As we said, glycerine is a great moisturiser. In other words, it is able to retain moisture in our skin. In this way, it can become the best remedy for dry skin in need of emollient compounds.

*A cream with emollient properties softens, smoothes and protects the skin by creating a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Emollients help keep the skin hydrated, supple and healthy, and are used to treat or prevent dryness, roughness, flaking, itching and conditions such as atopic dermatitis.

These moisturising and emollient qualities of glycerine give it anti-ageing and anti-sagging properties that are used in cream recipes for mature skin.

In addition, glycerine defends the skin from environmental aggressions by helping to create a protective layer, thereby accelerating wound healing and even soothing sunburn. For this reason, it has also earned a place in the formulation of many sunscreen products.

It is even used in hair care products to treat dry, brittle hair. Glycerine moisturises the hair from the inside out, stimulating growth and preventing dandruff.

It is a key ingredient in products used for the well-known curly method. This is due to its ability to soften, protect and define the hair fibre. It makes curls more hydrated, less frizzy and healthier.

IN GENERAL: in all types of recipes for making body and facial creams and lotions.

In recipes for natural serums, such as those provided below.

In recipes for natural shampoos and hair masks…

It will add a touch of softness when added to emulsions, shower gels, and solid and liquid soaps. In soaps, it is recommended not to use more than one teaspoon per kilo of soap, as too much will soften it considerably.

CAUTION: The only precaution with glycerine is that, as it is hygroscopic and tends to absorb moisture from its surroundings, it is important that the product we design contains enough water to retain the glycerine; otherwise, it would not moisturise, but could cause some dehydration.

How is glycerine obtained?

The method used to obtain this natural component consists of the saponification of fatty acids, which make up its triglyceride. This saponification is carried out through a reaction with an alkali, causing the glycerine to be released.

GLYCERINE AS AN EXTRACTOR OF PRINCIPLES

Glycerine is good for the skin, but it is also used in countless areas that have little to do with cosmetics. In fact, it also has certain properties that make it particularly suitable for use as a preservative and thickening agent in the food industry.

One of the main uses of glycerine in natural cosmetics is as an excellent solvent, which means we can also use it to create hydroglycerine extracts (water and glycerine) for any cosmetic recipe.

Personally, we prefer glycerites to hydroglycerinated extracts because they greatly facilitate preservation. A dry plant extract in glycerine has a very long shelf life, whereas if we add water, we may have to add some kind of preservative.

Furthermore, when combining glycerine extract or glycerine in any of our formulations (serum, cream, etc.), we can always add an aqueous phase if necessary. This means that we can have prepared our extract two months in advance and it will still be fine.

*According to the IA: The main difference between a hydroglycerine extract and a glycerite is that a hydroglycerine extract is obtained by macerating a plant in a mixture of water and glycerine, while a glycerite is a type of extract that uses only glycerine as a solvent. Both extract the active ingredients from plants, but they use different solvents, which affects their properties and applications.

MACERATIONS IN VEGETABLE GLYCERINE

It is important to know that vegetable glycerine (or glycerol) is a colourless, odourless alcohol, viscous at room temperature, which is soluble in both water and ethanol, although it is insoluble in oils.

As mentioned above, one of the most common uses of glycerine is in macerations with plants to extract their active ingredients and produce hydroglycerine extracts.

CONVENTIONAL PROCEDURE: Fill about 3/4 of the jar with dried plant material, then pour in a 50/50 solution of liquid glycerine and distilled water until most of the jar is covered. As we said, we never do it this way because we prefer not to use water, which forces us to use a preservative and limits the shelf life of our extract.

What we do is grind the dried plant beforehand, so that it becomes a fine powder, making it very easy to extract its qualities in the glycerine.

Next, we put our dried plant powder into a glass jar with glycerine, in a ratio of one part powder to 3-5 parts glycerine, so that the plant is well covered. In a few weeks, our extract will be ready. It is advisable to stir it every other day to facilitate extraction.

HOW TO PREPARE A GLYCERIN EXTRACT WITH HERBAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS?

To prepare a glycerine herbal extract (a glycerite), it is advisable to ensure that the plant we are going to use is completely dry, thus avoiding the added problems of mould and bacteria. Once dry, it is advisable to grind it into a fine powder.

You can use a ceramic mortar, but a coffee grinder is quicker and works very well.

We will use a glass jar, which we will have previously sterilised with alcohol, to macerate the plant in natural vegetable glycerine and thus obtain our extract.

In general, use 1 part powdered plant to 3 to 5 parts glycerine, depending on the size of the jar and the amount of extract you want to obtain. The plant must always be well covered by the glycerine.

HOW TO PREPARE glycerine extract of geranium

You will need:

2 grams of powdered geranium petals

And between 40 and 60 grams of vegetable glycerine

PREPARATION:

Place 2 grams of geranium powder in an airtight glass container and add about 50 grams of vegetable glycerine.

Close the container and store it in a place with a stable temperature. Stir it daily.

After approximately one week, the extract will be ready.

We will then filter it with gauze or a fine mesh sieve and we can now pour it into the glass container we have chosen for this purpose.

With AMLA, which usually comes in powder form, follow exactly the same procedure.

We then filter our extract through a paper coffee filter or a fine stainless steel sieve.

With the coffee filter, it takes all day, but with the sieve, we can obtain our filtered extract in less time.

We then store it in an airtight glass container and label it with the date of manufacture.

STORAGE: Once prepared, we can leave it for a year, protected from heat and direct light, and it will remain in perfect condition.

And, of course, we will take it out of the jar to add our extract to our natural cosmetic formulations.

Below is a video example of the process of extracting glycerine extracts according to Cecil Vig. This video clearly shows the process to follow to prepare all types of extracts. In this case, she uses beetroot powder, but the same applies to any other plant or herb, such as geranium powder, amla powder, etc.

1. The first step is to obtain a powdered herbal extract from the chosen plant. To do this, first dry it, then grind it in an electric coffee grinder until you obtain a fine powder.

2. The second step is to add 3 to 5 times the amount of glycerine needed to cover this powdered extract. It is best to do this in a sterile glass container with an airtight lid, which we can stir daily for a few days until we obtain our glycerine extract.

3. The third step is to filter it through a very fine sieve or gauze cloth to remove the plant debris and leave us with the glycerine macerate. This macerated extract can now be used directly in our cosmetic preparations, as shown in the photograph.

AMLA GLYCERINE EXTRACT

Although extraction in distilled water is more common, it is possible to extract the components of amla powder using glycerine. Glycerine can act as a solvent for many of the beneficial properties of amla. Personally, we really like the final result which, once filtered, can be applied directly to the skin to appreciate the fantastic moisturising properties it provides.

How to perform glycerine extraction (basic method)

Mix: Combine the amla powder with vegetable glycerine in a container. You can use a ratio of 1 part powder to 5 parts glycerine, adjusting according to the desired consistency. Our advice is not to use too much amla powder because it expands and thickens a lot when glycerine is added.

Resting: Leave the mixture to rest for a while, at least a couple of days, so that the compounds in the amla are transferred to the glycerine.

Filtering: Pass the mixture through a fine filter or gauze to separate the liquid from the solids.

Additional considerations:

Solvents: Glycerine is a solvent, but water can also be used to extract nutrients from amla, as the powder is water-soluble.

Use of glycerine: Glycerine is a thick liquid, so the result will be a more concentrated mixture with a different texture than a simple water infusion.

Applications:

This glycerine extract can be used in many different homemade cosmetic preparations. For example, it is very useful in the production of creams for mature skin due to its richness in natural polyphenols and stable vitamin C.

Yes, you read that right, the vitamin C in amla is more stable and degrades much less than ascorbic acid (a synthetic active ingredient isolated from plants that contain it), which also requires complex formulations to ensure its stability.

VITAMIN C IN AMLA:

Like any vitamin C, the high vitamin C content in AMLA degrades with prolonged exposure to air, light, and heat. However, it is known that: “The vitamin C in amla is significantly more stable than isolated ascorbic acid, as it is bound to polyphenols and tannins, a class of antioxidants. Stability also depends on the drying method, as freeze-dried powder retains more vitamin C, and proper packaging is essential to maintaining quality.”

Therefore, although some vitamin C loss during processing is inevitable, amla powder is considered a good and relatively stable source of vitamin C, as the vitamin is naturally protected by its other components. For maximum benefits, choose a well-packaged amla powder.

In addition to anti-ageing creams and serums, it is used in anti-acne cosmetic preparations, face and hair masks, anti-hair loss shampoo recipes, toothpastes, massage oils and natural soaps.

PROPERTIES OF AYURVEDIC AMLA POWDER

Amla powder is rich in vitamin C and polyphenols and has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, tonic and skin regenerating properties.

Its high vitamin C and polyphenol content makes it an excellent antioxidant and regenerator for the skin and hair. It is highly recommended for dull, devitalised skin prone to acne.

OTHER AYURVEDIC PLANTS WITH REGENERATIVE PROPERTIES for the skin

In addition to amla powder , which have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, neem powder is also worth considering. Although its bactericidal and fungicidal effects are well known for the ecological treatment of pests, its beneficial effects in other areas, such as skin care, are less well known. Neem is particularly beneficial for skin affected by acne, dermatitis, eczema or psoriasis. It is also a powerful natural anti-inflammatory and moisturiser that soothes dry skin, helps heal wounds and burns, and has anti-ageing properties. In addition, it can improve pigmentation, relieve sunburn and irritation, and act as an insect repellent.

Alkanet root is used for hair growth or on the skin to heal wounds and nourish it. This root is insoluble in water, so it is prepared in oil. A popular recipe: Soak the alkanet root in warm coconut or sesame oil for a few hours until the oil turns a deep red colour. Use: Apply to the scalp to en te hair growth or to the skin to heal wounds and nourish it. It is even said that by using ratanjot powder regularly, grey hair will naturally darken, restoring its original colour over time.

Walnut extract powder. Walnut tincture is known to be antifungal and antibacterial, hence its use in natural medicine. Walnut extract powder also has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, astringent and healing properties that benefit the skin. It is useful for reducing acne and excess oil, soothing irritations such as eczema, exfoliating the skin, and combating signs of ageing by protecting cells. It also aids wound healing and lightens blemishes. This powder can be macerated in either glycerine or a high-quality oil. In both cases, it is a valuable addition to our homemade cosmetic preparations.

Black clay is also regenerating, healing, nourishing, and toning

Ashgawandha powder is another plant with antioxidant and regenerative properties, making it an excellent product for pro-ageing and healing cosmetics.

Rosehip powder keeps the skin healthy and promotes the healing of wounds and burns. It is rich in vitamins such as A, C, E and D.

NIACINAMIDE SERUM with 3 INGREDIENTS

This facial serum recipe is particularly suitable for sensitive skin affected by pigmentation spots because it evens out skin tone and moisturises the skin, as glycerine is a great moisturiser. Geranium also has interesting regenerative properties.

INGREDIENTS:

Geranium extract macerated in glycerine.

One capsule* of niacinamide for a 30 ml dropper bottle.

A hydrolate or mineral salt water or ozonated distilled water or simply distilled water.

*Personally, we usually use water with trace elements from VITAL, which is intrinsically preserved and contains trace elements that are very beneficial for the skin, such as zinc and copper.

*This water with trace elements is marketed, in principle, as an ionic mineral supplement based on “Concentrated Mineral Drops” (CMD) from the Great Salt Lake, Utah (USA). It contains a full spectrum of minerals and trace elements with additional additions of zinc, copper, boron, selenium, chromium, manganese and molybdenum, which are very easy to absorb thanks to their dissolved ionic form.

It is not that we are dedicated to promoting certain supplements in this blog, we only recommend them sometimes if, after trying them, we find them useful for our readers interested in cosmetics and natural medicine.

In any case, as we said, it is possible to simply use distilled water, ozonated distilled water or a hydrolate of your choice.

PREPARATION:

First, macerate the powdered geranium petals in a small glass jar with 3 parts glycerine to 1 part geranium powder. Leave it closed for a couple of weeks, stirring frequently.

Now extract about 15 ml of this macerate and mix it with about 15 ml of hydrolate. Add the niacinamide capsule (food grade is always best) to the mixture, stirring continuously. Once the 3 components are well mixed, pour into a small glass dispenser bottle for easy application.

USE: The facial serum recipes we have designed on this page can be used daily without any problems, as they do not alter the skin on our face. However, it is always a good idea to combine them with other serums or creams to enhance the effects of the treatments.

Both the niacinamide capsule and the coenzyme Q10/hyaluronic acid and astaxanthin capsule that we will use in the following facial serum recipes are all “food grade”, which can be found in natural medicine shops. This is because, although it is possible to find these components in cosmetic supply shops, we personally believe that the more bioavailable an ingredient is, the more effective it will be in our product.

We believe that bioavailability equals effectiveness.

* If we are going to make more serum, we will need to add more niacinamide, but this is never a good idea with this type of totally natural, preservative-free product, as you know. The idea is to consume them quickly and frequently.

We cannot guarantee this product because we do not sell it, hehehe, but we do guarantee the recipe. If you want to have skin like a baby’s bottom, use this serum 2 to 3 times a week, preferably at night.

Oh, and don’t add any preservatives because this serum doesn’t need them. Preservatives, in general, even the mild ones (otherwise they wouldn’t be effective), alter our skin microbiome. The famous microbiota that everyone is talking about nowadays, so the results you get will not be the same, I’m sorry to say. ☹

WHY A NIACINAMIDE SERUM?

Simply because it is a vitamin (vitamin B3) that cares for our skin and is suitable for all skin types: dry, oily or sensitive…

It has numerous properties, such as:

Reduces blemishes (even melasma*) and evens out skin tone

It regulates sebum in oily or combination skin and improves the texture of this type of skin by helping to close pores.

It soothes inflammation and improves redness and sensitivity in sensitive, dry or damaged skin.

It strengthens the skin barrier, which is important for skin affected by rosacea or even acne scars.

And, in general, it boosts hydration when combined with other active ingredients, such as panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)*, aloe vera or hyaluronic acid…

*Melasma is a specific type of hyperpigmentation characterised by dark, symmetrical patches, mainly on the face, and is strongly influenced by hormonal factors and sun exposure. In contrast, “pigment spots” is a general term for any darkening of the skin, which can be caused by a variety of factors such as sun exposure (solar lentigines), acne (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) or ageing, and can appear anywhere on the body.

*Panthenol is a stable form of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) that converts to vitamin B5 when it penetrates the skin. It is used in skin, hair and nail care products for its moisturising, soothing and repairing properties.

WHY USE AN OZONATED OIL OR AN OZONATED WATER BASE in our homemade serum?

As we know, ozonated oils help prevent skin blemishes by reducing existing hyperpigmentation and promoting cell renewal. Their action is based on their antioxidant and regenerative properties and their ability to remove dead cells and treat infections that can cause blemishes.

Ozonated water also helps prevent skin blemishes. Its action is due to the removal of dead cells, the disinfection of pores, cell revitalisation and improved blood circulation, which contributes to a more luminous and even skin tone. In addition, the antioxidant properties of ozone help protect the skin.

AMLA SERUM with 3 INGREDIENTS

This facial serum recipe is particularly suitable for mature and dull skin that needs vitality and hydration, as glycerine is a great moisturiser. Amla extract provides organic, bioavailable vitamin C and coenzyme Q10, which stimulates collagen and elastin production, reducing wrinkles and combating the negative effects of exposure to solar radiation, which is otherwise unavoidable. The use of hyaluronic acid, instead of coenzyme Q10, also has a moisturising, tightening and regenerating effect on this type of skin.

VITAMIN C IN AMLA:

Like any vitamin C, the high vitamin C content of AMLA degrades with prolonged exposure to air, light and heat. However, it is known that: “Vitamin C from amla is significantly more stable than isolated ascorbic acid, as it is bound to polyphenols and tannins, a class of antioxidants. Stability also depends on the drying method, as freeze-dried powder retains more vitamin C, and proper packaging is essential to maintain quality.”

Therefore, although some vitamin C loss during processing is inevitable, amla powder is considered a good and relatively stable source of vitamin C, as the vitamin is naturally protected by its other components. For maximum benefits, choose a well-packaged amla powder.

COENZYME Q10 has multiple beneficial effects, such as:

-Antioxidant protection: It acts as a powerful antioxidant that neutralises free radicals, protecting the skin from damage caused by the sun (UVA and UVB radiation) and pollution, helping to prevent premature ageing.

-Stimulates collagen and elastin: By stimulating the production of these proteins, it helps maintain skin elasticity and firmness, resulting in a younger, firmer complexion. This makes it particularly suitable for mature or sun-damaged skin.

-Reduces wrinkles and improves hydration: The combination of its antioxidant properties and its ability to increase collagen helps smooth existing fine lines and wrinkles by contributing to the formation of a natural moisture barrier in the skin that helps it look smoother and softer.

-Provides luminosity, just like the vitamin C in amla: This means that both act synergistically. The skin looks brighter, revitalised and more even-toned. And the skin’s lipid barrier is strengthened, protecting it from external and internal aggressions.

THE BENEFICIAL EFFECTS OF HYALURONIC ACID:

Hyaluronic acid is taken orally and is available in tablets and nutritional supplements. There is even a liquid form available, which can be mixed with water and consumed. In our case, we can easily add it to our serum, although it is also possible to do so with the powder version that comes in capsules, as hyaluronic acid is water-soluble. Oral administration also has many advantages, including reducing the discomfort caused by arthritis and improving skin health, as it is a powerful moisturising agent that strengthens the skin barrier.

Basically, it provides intense hydration to the tissues (when taken orally) and to the skin when applied topically. Its filling effect (it increases volume by retaining water) makes the skin look smoother and firmer. As it strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier, the skin looks more elastic and hydrated.

INGREDIENTS:

Amla macerated extract in glycerine.

One capsule* of coenzyme Q10 or hyaluronic acid for a 30 ml dropper bottle.

A hydrolate or mineral salt water or ozonated distilled water or simply distilled water.

PREPARATION:

First, macerate the amla powder in a small glass jar with 5 parts glycerine to 1 part amla, because amla expands considerably. Leave it closed for a couple of weeks, stirring frequently.

Now extract about 15 ml of this macerate and mix it with about 15 ml of hydrolate. Add the capsule of coenzyme Q10 or hyaluronic acid, according to your preference, to the mixture, stirring continuously. Once the three components are well mixed, pour into a small glass dispenser bottle for easy application.

USE: The facial serum recipes we have designed on this page can be used daily without any problems, as they do not alter the skin on our face. However, it is always a good idea to combine them with other serums or creams to enhance the effects of the treatment.

ALKANET+AMLA SERUM with 3 INGREDIENTS

This serum is particularly useful for soothing itching, irritation and redness, regenerating and accelerating wound healing and, in general, softening and nourishing the skin.

INGREDIENTS:

One part macerated alkanet root extract together with amla in glycerine.

Two parts of a quality virgin oil, such as sea buckthorn oil, or a combination of several oils.

Optional: add a capsule of astaxanthin, which is also fat-soluble.

*This serum cannot be prepared with water or hydrolates because alkanet root is fat-soluble and does not mix with water, only with oil or glycerine, of course.

*Sea buckthorn oil is obtained from sea buckthorn berries. It is a very interesting oil for skin care because it is rich in unsaturated fatty acids that have a stabilising and regenerating effect on the skin barrier. It is known to be a natural source of antioxidants, essential fatty acids (omega 3, 6, 7 and 9), carotenoids, vitamins (A, C, E) and minerals. All these nutrients combine to deeply nourish the skin, stimulate cell regeneration and maintain its elasticity.

PREPARATION:

First, macerate equal parts of powdered alkanet root and powdered amla in a small glass jar with 3 parts glycerine for every 1 part of the powder mixture. Leave it closed for a couple of weeks, stirring frequently.

Now extract about 10 ml of this macerated mixture and mix it with about 20 ml of high-quality cold-pressed oil. If you are going to add the astaxanthin capsule, now is the time to do so, stirring continuously so that all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Once the ingredients are well mixed, pour the mixture into a small glass dispenser bottle for easy application.

USE: The facial serum recipes we have designed on this page can be used daily without any problems, as they do not alter the skin on our face. However, it is always a good idea to combine them with other serums or creams to enhance the effects of the treatment.

THE ASTAXANTHIN OPTION

Astaxanthin is known as the most powerful antioxidant in the world, much more so than vitamin C, beta-carotene or vitamin E. According to comparative studies, astaxanthin is (for example) 6,000 times more powerful than vitamin C, 770 times more powerful than coenzyme Q10 and 100 times more powerful than vitamin E.

Today we also know that it prevents collagen degradation.

It is produced by microalgae that form the basis of the diet of salmon, prawns, flamingos, etc. This is why these animals have a reddish colour (their pigment is fat-soluble and settles in the cell membranes). However, it has been shown that, in addition to its well-known antioxidant power and ability to protect the skin from sun damage, it even protects the eyes from cataracts.

In summer, the skin loses collagen due to the action of solar radiation, which accelerates its loss of firmness. The study we mentioned has shown that astaxanthin inhibits the action of the enzymes that degrade this collagen, protecting the skin from within. We could summarise the benefits of astaxanthin intake as follows:

–A powerful antioxidant, it inhibits the formation of free radicals, accelerated by the sun’s action, preserving collagen from degradation.

–Due to its ability to protect the skin from sun damage, it softens wrinkles and fades skin blemishes while also promoting hydration.

–It is considered a natural anti-inflammatory that, internally, improves immune function and cardiovascular health.

For all these reasons, it is particularly beneficial to use it in a serum to treat the skin during the summer. And, without a doubt, it is best to apply it at night, which is when the skin prepares and repairs itself for the day ahead.

PROPERTIES OF ALKANET ROOT FOR THE SKIN

This root, which is insoluble in water, can be infused in oils to extract its properties and colour. In fact, alkanet root has cosmetic properties and benefits for the skin, such as its use as a natural colourant (red and purple- ), its antioxidant capacity that helps fight free radicals and premature ageing, and its soothing and healing effects. It is useful for soothing itching, accelerating wound healing, and softening the skin.

Skin properties

  • Antioxidant: It contains antioxidants that help protect cells from damage caused by free radicals, which can delay premature ageing of the skin.
  • Heals wounds: Traditionally used to aid wound healing and relieve itching and inflammation of the skin.
  • Emollient: It helps to soothe and soften the skin, acting as a natural emollient.
  • Natural colouring: Its main use is as a natural dye for cosmetic products such as soaps, lip balms, lotions and ointments, giving them a reddish colour.
  • Detoxification and general health: It is considered to support skin health and aid in detoxification.
  • Potential for skin conditions: It has been used to help with conditions such as dermatitis, eczema and warts, although this should be discussed with a professional.

MOISTURISING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN NATURAL COSMETICS

Moisturising is the quality of an active ingredient that is capable of absorbing and retaining moisture in both the skin and hair; in other words, it hydrates and retains hydration. Ingredients such as glycerine, sorbitol (sugar alcohol), butylene glycol and, of course, hyaluronic acid are examples of moisturisers used in skin care products.

That said, other moisturising active ingredients, apart from glycerine extracts, that we can consider for our natural cosmetic preparations are:

  • Honey, which we discussed at length at the beginning of the article. There is no more natural and simple way to add moisturising properties to our cream or natural product than by adding a teaspoon of organic honey. Honey attracts moisture into the skin, making it useful for treating dry skin and combating ageing.
  • Betaine is valued in skincare for its ability to help the skin retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturising and soothing formulas. Also as a surfactant, betaine cleanses and moisturises the skin by drawing moisture from the environment and retaining it, helping to maintain a healthy and smooth complexion. In addition, betaine works synergistically with other ingredients such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, improving the overall effectiveness of skin care.
  • Hyaluronic acid is a type of sugar (polysaccharide) that we all have naturally in our skin. When obtained from plant sources, its properties seem magical. Plant-based hyaluronic acid is obtained from the fermentation of starchy vegetables (such as corn or potatoes) and has a unique ability to retain water up to 1,000 times its weight. Well-formulated, plant-based hyaluronic acid is one of the most effective ingredients available for moisturising, smoothing and protecting the skin. It has the ability to fill in wrinkles and rejuvenate the appearance. Furthermore, as hyaluronic acid is already naturally present, our skin tolerates it very well.
  • Panthenol or pro-vitamin B5, which moisturises and hydrates. This is another very special vitamin that deeply hydrates without saturating, while also repairing and soothing. As it is a natural vitamin, it is highly bioavailable and is not perceived as something external, only its amazing results. It increases the skin’s ability to retain water and strengthens the skin barrier. It also promotes the regeneration of damaged areas by reducing redness, itching and sensitivity, as it is anti-inflammatory.
  • Lactic acid: Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that occurs naturally in fermented dairy products and is also produced in the human body during metabolism. It is therefore an active ingredient with high bioavailability. It is used to adjust the pH of creams and natural cosmetic products, but above all, it is mainly used as a gentle exfoliant and moisturising agent. Unlike other exfoliants that can leave the skin dry and tight, lactic acid has moisturising properties and acts as a humectant that attracts moisture to the outer layer of the skin, leaving it softer, smoother and more hydrated. This can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and smooth fine lines and wrinkles. In addition to its ability to exfoliate and moisturise, it can also improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots, leading to a more even skin tone. Its high bioavailability and moisturising capacity make it an excellent choice for people with sensitive skin.
  • Sodium lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid. It is a bioavailable active ingredient, as it is a salt of lactic acid that occurs naturally in the human body and is produced by the fermentation of sugars. It belongs to the group of moisturising/humectant substances produced by the skin to maintain its own moisture content and the slightly acidic physiological pH of the skin. In natural cosmetics, sodium lactate is used in combination with lactic acid as an effective, physiological and skin-tolerable moisturiser. Sodium lactate is highly soluble in water. As it prevents the proliferation of fungi and yeasts, it is also sometimes used as a food preservative and, in natural cosmetics, we can also benefit from its ability to extend the shelf life of our products. In handmade soap making, it is used to help soaps cure faster and to give them greater hardness. This active ingredient is a favourite for dry skin due to its great moisturising capacity, which is only surpassed by hyaluronic acid.
  • Aloe vera, which moisturises and regenerates. Its natural pulp is rich in water, anti-inflammatory and provides intense hydration, restoring the skin’s moisture levels.
  • Goat’s milk powder. Milk serum stimulates natural collagen production, bioproteins help retain moisture, and biotin acts as a protector against external aggressions.
  • And, of course, shea butter, which moisturises, nourishes and heals. It is also a natural source of vitamins A, D, E and F, making it one of the most complete natural products we can use to protect ourselves against external aggressions. Shea butter has powerful regenerative and healing properties for wounds and burns. It is worth mentioning its effect on improving skin elasticity, effectively smoothing wrinkles in the dermis.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

McLoone, P., Oluwadun, A., Warnock, M., & Fyfe, L. (2016). Honey: A Therapeutic Agent for Disorders of the Skin. Central Asian Journal Of Global Health, 5(1). https://doi.org/10.5195/cajgh.2016.241

Click to access VILLERS%20Agathe.pdf

Tashkandi, H. (2021). Honey in wound healing: An updated review. Open Life Sciences, 16(1), 1091–1100. https://doi.org/10.1515/biol-2021-0084

McLoone, P., Oluwadun, A., Warnock, M., & Fyfe, L. (2016b). Honey: A Therapeutic Agent for Disorders of the Skin. Central Asian Journal Of Global Health, 5(1). https://doi.org/10.5195/cajgh.2016.241

Jungermann, E., & Sonntag, N. O. V. (1991). Glycerin: A Key Cosmetic Ingredient.

This is a comprehensive book that covers the properties, manufacturing, and use of glycerine in cosmetics and other industries.

Baumann, L. (2015). Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients.

A chapter in this book discusses glycerine in the context of cosmeceuticals and cosmetic ingredients.

Sage Journals: “Safety Assessment of Glycerine as Used in Cosmetics” by Rothe et al. (2019). This article details the frequency of use, concentration ranges, and safety profile of glycerine in cosmetic products based on a 2014 survey.

ResearchGate: “Functions of Glycerine in Cosmetics” by Filipe Smith Buarque, Silas Arandas Monteiro E Silva, and Bernardo Dias Ribeiro (2025). This paper delves into the functional properties of glycerine in skincare, such as its effects on moisturisation and skin desquamation.

Other journals: Articles from Cosmetics & Toiletries and SpecialChem often cover the properties and uses of ingredients like glycerine.

HOW TO MAKE HERBAL CREAMS AT HOME

The easiest way to prepare creams with an herbal base is to make an herbal oil and then incorporate this oil into our formulation.

HOW A MACERATED OIL IS MADE

Here is a link to a previous blog post that explains how to make an “oleado” from wild rose hips.

Also this other link:

https://naturamatters.blog/2021/03/05/how-to-make-infused-oil-2/

However, you can also visualise the procedure in this video of the Gingko Education school: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BINGTb3ouqo

HOW TO MAKE A CREAM OR OINTMENT FROM HERBAL OIL

Once we know the method (either hot or cold) to macerate our herbs and prepare an oleado, we have two options:

1.- Use our oleado to prepare the balm or ointment, in this case we only need to add a certain amount of beeswax to thicken our ointment and it will be ready.

2.- We can choose to prepare our cream or ointment in situ by macerating our oil with an herbal extract of our choice. In this case, the process of preparing the oil occurs at the same time as we prepare our balm or ointment.

This video shows this second way of making our cream based on herbal extracts, in this case, calendula.

Balms or ointments require, as a general rule, an oil (or ointment if infused with herbal extracts) and a certain amount of beeswax to emulsify it.

General rule: The amount of beeswax used is always about a quarter of the oil or oil used. This is also known as the 10% rule, in which we would use 90% oil and 10% beeswax to emulsify the oil.

So, for example, to fill a container of about 100 grams, we would use about 90 grams of oil and about 10 grams of wax. This consistency is ideal for use on the face, hands, etc.

If we are looking to make an ointment that spreads almost like wax, then we can increase the amount of wax up to 15 grams. It depends on the consistency we are looking for.

In our opinion, 10 grams (1/4 wax) is an excellent consistency, but, for example, if we are looking to create an ointment with a high concentration of active ingredients, in order to spread it on small areas (for example, an ointment to treat haemorrhoids), it may be more interesting to use a higher proportion of wax so that the active ingredients are better concentrated.

WHY PREPARE A BALM-LIKE CREAM WITHOUT AN AQUEOUS PHASE?

Very simple. These creams do not require preservatives.

Only antioxidants such as vitamin E or rosemary extract CO2 are usually added to extend the life of the product, as these antioxidants prevent the rancidity of fats and oils.

By avoiding the use of preservatives and added synthetic actives, we obtain a product that is much gentler and more tolerable for all skin types.

This is especially important if our homemade DIY product is to be used by people with sensitive or atopic skin. In these cases, such products can be used on a daily basis to safely moisturise and nourish our skin.

The balms whose recipes are detailed below are totally suitable for treating sensitive or atopic skin and skin affected by dermatitis.

Of course, each has its own specific characteristics. For example, the oatmeal balm whose recipe is described below is particularly suitable for daily use on skin affected by itchy dermatitis, as oatmeal has an anti-inflammatory, itch-soothing effect on irritation.

It would be very interesting to use a calendula oil as a base oil for this balm, for example. By adding the ground oatmeal to it, we would enrich our balm even more, giving it very good properties for treating this type of sensitive skin.

In any case, with this type of skin, we must above avoid creams loaded with preservatives and synthetic active ingredients, even if they are homemade, as they have an irritating effect on this type of skin.

As well as minimising the use of essential oils (just a couple of drops, or none at all) and avoiding chemical fragrances as much as possible.

HOW TO PREPARE MACERATED HERBAL EXTRACTS

Very simple, grinding the dried herbs with a coffee grinder.

This is how we have made our oatmeal powder, from grinding the oat flakes from breakfast. Or aloe vera, from grinding the dried aloe bark left over from emptying the aloe stalks.

You can also use other powdered extracts such as orange, which also smells very good.

PROCEDURE:

To obtain the orange extract powder, follow the same procedure as above. Dry the orange peels, and when they are very dry, grind them in a coffee grinder.

This powder will be placed in a recycled glass jar, so that it will last much longer and can be used in future cosmetic preparations.

PROPERTIES OF DIFFERENT FLOURS AND HERBAL EXTRACTS

Herbal extracts to enrich our cream or balm with their therapeutic properties can be of many different types:

These can be flours such as oat or baobab flour, yeast such as brewer’s yeast, powdered vitamin extracts such as Niacinamide or astaxanthin, ground herbs such as bearberry, or even ground rinds of different fruits such as oranges, tangerines or lemons.

ORANGE PEEL POWDER

INCI: Citrus aurantium powder

Orange extract powder can be macerated in oil, glycerine and also water. It is a plant-based ingredient used in cosmetics to formulate a wide range of products, such as creams, gels, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, hair fixatives…

Orange extract has anti-wrinkle, circulation-activating, anti-inflammatory, exfoliating, depigmenting, antiseptic, moisturising properties… The recommended dosage of orange extract in cosmetics ranges from 0.5 to 5%.

The cosmetic powder of orange peel, contains among other nutrients vitamin C that helps us to fight acne and has antioxidant properties, calcium that renews dead skin, potassium that moisturizes and regenerates the skin, magnesium that helps to give shine and youth to your skin. It is toning and astringent and it leaves hair soft, supple and shiny, improving also circulation in the scalp.

With dehydrated orange peel powder, you can make a facial mask to cleanse the skin or revitalizing baths, for oily skin and pimples, tired and dull skin, for all hair types.

Applications: masks, soaps, exfoliating creams, solid shampoo, etc…

Dosage: 0 to 5%. In conjunction with other powders up to 15%.

GROUND OATMEAL

INCI: Avena Sativa

Oats contain manganese, selenium, phosphorus, magnesium and zinc. It has moisturising and nourishing elements and hypoallergenic, emollient, and protective properties.

Oatmeal soothes skin irritations, both allergic and non-allergic, as well as itching. It improves itching caused by psoriasis, scabies, or itching caused by other types of dermatitis.

Because it moisturises and softens the skin, it is recommended for all skin types, extremely dry or flaky skin, also for sensitive skin and children.

It is also widely used in facial masks, as it is an excellent skin cleanser. Its particles absorb dirt and cellular residues while respecting and caring for the skin structure.

ALKANET ROOT POWDER

INCI: Alkanna Tinctoria

Alkanna tinctoria is a plant native to the Mediterranean part of the Boraginaceae family. Its roots contain a red dye that has been used as a dye since ancient times. It also has great medicinal properties.

The Greek physician, Hippocrates, recorded the use of this root for the treatment of skin ulcers. Because the plant contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids (which can cause liver toxicity), it is now almost exclusively used as a cosmetic dye and as a medicinal plant for topical use.

Traditionally, it has been used to treat wounds and skin diseases due to its antimicrobial and skin regenerating activity. The use of this root is therefore highly recommended in treatments for skin affected by dermatitis and eczema. It is also thought to have antiviral action against the herpes simplex virus. 

In addition to being antibacterial, it is very effective in improving inflammation, is suitable for sunburn and is able to act as a natural sunscreen. In fact, it is combined with ghee to treat burns and infected wounds.

Cosmetics: It has been used as a colouring agent for lipstick and in powder blusher.

HIBISCUS FLOWER

INCI: Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder

Hibiscus flower stimulates cell renewal, helps eliminate blemishes and reduces wrinkles caused by the signs of ageing as well as providing other skin benefits.

Its richness in vitamin E, essential fatty acids and natural antioxidants helps to fight against skin ageing and the harmful effects of UV rays. This is why it is added to a wide range of cosmetics such as: facial masks, creams and lotions, serums and soothing after-sun treatments.

BAOBAB FLOUR

INCI: Adansonia Digitata

Contains: triterpenoids, flavonoids and phenolic compounds, sterols and saponins. Vitamins A, B, C and E so that it nourishes the epidermis, hair and nails. It is ideal for the treatment of dry skin, predisposed to the formation of wrinkles.

Thanks to its polyunsaturated fatty acids, it ensures optimal hydration and tissue protection. Its vitamin components and organic acids slow down skin ageing, keeping the skin elastic and glowing.

Its properties allow the skin to regenerate quickly; it also acts as a natural antibacterial, cleanses deeply and leaves a feeling of freshness, delaying skin ageing.

BREWER’S YEAST EXTRACT POWDER

INCI: Yeast Saccharomyces cereviciae Extract

The most important cosmetic properties of brewer’s yeast are to promote the production of collagen, elastin, to rebuild the extracellular matrix and to be refreshing to the skin. Its good results in post-solar products are particularly striking, which has generated innovative combinations for a new class of cosmetics with anti-inflammatory and rehydrating action on damaged and water-deficient skin.

It can be considered a unique internal moisturiser, swelling the skin surface by increasing hydration and incorporating nascent proteins into the skin cells to help the skin oxygenate and appear more luminous.

ASTAXANTHIN EXTRACT

INCI: ASTAXANTHIN

Astaxanthin is a natural antioxidant derived from microalgae. It supports joint, skin and eye health and provides a wide range of health benefits.

A study on the role of astaxanthin in UV-induced skin damage in healthy people suggested that it offered some sun protection. Skin is damaged by daily exposure to the sun, so the skin-protective effects of astaxanthin may be particularly important.

In addition, several data show that astaxanthin has important nutraceutical applications and health benefits, especially in healthy ageing processes as it prevents oxidative stress.

ALOE VERA POWDER

INCI: ALOE BARBADENSIS

Aloe vera powder is made from dried aloe vera leaves ground to a powder consistency. It can be used in many ways in different products and offers multiple benefits to the body due to its high content of antioxidants and vitamin C, which strengthen the immune system by repairing and soothing the digestive tract.

For the skin: Aloe vera powder heals the skin and improves its elasticity.  It has moisturising and soothing properties that relieve scars and marks, as well as minor burns, eczema, psoriasis and acne.

It is anti-inflammatory and increases collagen production in the skin, as well as acting as an antiseptic to help reduce any pain, swelling or itching related to mosquito bites, sunburn or allergic reactions.

OATMEAL BALM RECIPE

As mentioned above, this balm is particularly suitable for treating atopic skin and skin affected by dermatitis or eczema with itching, as oatmeal has an anti-inflammatory effect, soothing itching and softening irritation.

It would be very interesting to use a calendula oil as a base oil for this balm, for example. By adding the ground oatmeal to it, we would enrich our balm even more, giving it very good properties for treating this type of sensitive skin.

In any case, with this type of skin we must avoid, above all, creams loaded with preservatives and synthetic active ingredients, even if they are homemade, as they have an irritating effect on this type of skin.

As well as minimising the use of essential oils (just a couple of drops, or none at all) and avoiding chemical fragrances as much as possible.

Below we describe the properties of some of the essential oils most suitable for the treatment of atopic skin and skin affected by dermatitis. These include blue chamomile and Roman chamomile, which are anti-inflammatory, sandalwood, which is a regulator, geranium, which is regenerative, rosewood, carrot seed extract and, above all, patchouli to treat itching.

Ingredients for about 100 grams of product:

About 70 ml of calendula oil, if available, or almond oil.

About 10 grams of oatmeal* powder, and

About 15 grams of beeswax.

Optionally, a few drops, no more than 5, of carrot seed EO or chamomile. Both have very good properties for treating the most delicate skins.

As this balm does not contain water, it does not require the addition of preservatives. Only, if we want to extend its life by preventing rancidity, we can add a few drops of vitamin E.

*Some people go to the trouble of buying colloidal oatmeal to incorporate into creams and balms like this one. We have found that you get much the same result by grinding the oat flakes from the supermarket in a coffee grinder to a fine powder that dissolves easily in the oil since, after all, what we are doing is sort of macerating the oats in the oil as if they were a hot oleate. Finally, the properties of the powdered oatmeal will pass into our oil and thus into our balm.

PROCEDURE:

Place a heat-resistant container in a bain-marie and start by melting the beeswax.

When it is completely melted, add the calendula oil or, in its place, the almond oil and, finally, the oat powder, stirring constantly until everything is perfectly integrated.

Remove from the heat and, if we have decided to do so, this would be the moment to add the drops of EO, as they are thermolabile substances.

As you can see, with balms and ointments based on oil and wax, the proportion used is more or less 90% oil to 10% beeswax. The percentages, as you will understand, can be flexible depending on how hard we want our balm to be. If we like it to have a softer consistency, then, for example, instead of 15 grams of wax for 70 grams of oil, we will add only 10 grams of wax.

PROPERTIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS:

Carrot seed essential oil: This oil is moisturising, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and sunscreen. It also adds a mild and special aroma to the recipe.

Blue chamomile essential oil: Blue chamomile oil owes its blue colour to the chamazulenic acid contained in this essential oil. Chamazulenic acid is anti-inflammatory and promotes skin healing. This oil can therefore be used diluted in a carrier oil to disinfect wounds.

*With essential oils, less is more, as a few drops can add good properties to our balm, while too much can cause irritation with daily use. We should also bear in mind that this is a balm for sensitive skin, which often cannot even tolerate essential oils topically.

THERE ARE VARIOUS TYPES OF CHAMOMILE OILS AND EXTRACTS:

BLUE CHAMOMILE ESSENTIAL OIL: Blue chamomile essential oil, which is the one we have chosen, is specially selected for the treatment of atopic skin.

ROMAN CAMOMILE ESSENTIAL OIL: But, it would be equally possible to use Roman chamomile EO, which also has anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. It is also used topically to treat allergies, skin irritations, etc. ….

CAMOMILE OIL EXTRACT: In this case, we are not talking about an essential oil, but a macerate of chamomile flowers in virgin sunflower oil.

INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract.

The difference is that this oily extract could be incorporated in larger quantities in our recipes for sensitive skin as it lacks the highly biocidal capabilities of all essential oils.

In this way, just as we would do by adding a marigold oil, we would be using the softening, protective and regenerating qualities of chamomile or marigold to treat this type of skin without the disadvantages of the biocidal effect that these same plants would have if we used them in the form of essential oil.

PATCHOULI ESSENTIAL OIL:

Thanks to the potent analgesic, anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties of its bioactive component, patchoulen, this oil is widely used to relieve pain and inflammation in cases of arthritis and joint pain. As a natural vasodilator, it is also used to treat painful muscle spasms, muscle pain, arthritic conditions and other inflammatory conditions.

And it is because of these same analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties that it is so effective in treating atopic skin with pruritus.

Patchouli essential oil is renowned for its use in skin cell regeneration. Endowed with countless active ingredients and antibacterial properties, it facilitates wound healing and effectively reduces wrinkles, scars, blemishes and other signs of ageing. This aromatic oil also plays a key role in the fight against bacteria and germs that ultimately cause pimples, acne and other skin infections, giving us radiant, impurity-free skin.

ROSEWOOD ESSENTIAL OIL

Rosewood Essential Oil (Aniba rosaeodora) is obtained by steam distilling the wood of a tree. It is noted for its skin regenerating and mind calming properties.

It is analgesic, antidepressant and stimulant, antiseptic, tonic and aphrodisiac. Therefore, it is also soothing for this type of skin.

HOMEMADE ALOE VERA BALM RECIPE

This balm, like all the balms we show you in this article, could also be used on atopic and sensitive skin. However, it is more suitable for all skin types that we want to purify and moisturise on a daily basis.

Ingredients for about 100 grams of product:

About 70 ml of cold-pressed virgin olive oil.

About 10 grams of powdered aloe vera*, and

About 15 grams of beeswax.

Optionally, a few drops of antioxidant to extend its shelf life, no more than 10 drops of critical CO2 rosemary extract.

Rosemary extract CO2 critical: CO2 critical extracts are not exactly the same as essential oils. The technology with which they are obtained is far more sophisticated and a much better result is achieved with them. Thus, this type of extract optimally preserves the original aroma and properties of the plant from which it is extracted.

In the case of rosemary, this extract has antioxidant properties as well as antimicrobial properties. This is why we can use it instead of vitamin E to prevent rancidity in our aloe vera balm.

Rosemary EO is particularly beneficial for those suffering from conditions such as rosacea or dermatitis, helping to reduce associated inflammation and discomfort.

As the balm also contains no water, it does not require the addition of preservatives.

PROCEDURE:

Place a heat-resistant container in a bain-marie and start by melting the beeswax.

When it is completely melted, add the olive oil and, finally, the aloe vera powder, stirring constantly until everything is perfectly integrated.

Remove from the heat and, if we have decided to do so, this is the moment to add the droplets of rosemary extract CO2, which is a thermolabile substance.

HOW TO PROCESS PLANT EXTRACTS FOR USE IN OUR HOMEMADE COSMETIC PREPARATIONS

Ayurvedic medicine gives priority to natural foods that are fundamentally nourishing for the body, mind and soul. In addition to healthy skin, Ayurvedic diets have been proven to lower cholesterol levels, reduce the risk of cancer, protect against diabetes, promote weight loss and promote a calming effect on the mind, thus reducing anxiety.

Beauty is not only superficial. Any suffering our body undergoes is reflected in its outward appearance. Therefore, the use of Ayurvedic lifestyle practices is essential to sustainably maintain a healthy and glowing skin.

Ayurveda advises very natural products based on virgin oils and herbal extracts to take care of our skin, and that is why in these articles of our blog we try to find recipes and ways to create a natural cosmetic adapted to our modern life.

In this post, in particular, we want to explain how we can process the plants in our garden to make all kinds of extracts from them, such as tinctures, oleomacerates and hydroglycerine extracts.

What does the skin NEED to stay balanced?

First of all, it needs to absorb the nutrients it needs to stay in balance and that, as with almost everything else, according to Ayurvedic medicine and naturopathy, starts with a healthy diet.

Stress, lack of sleep, poor hydration and inactivity are detrimental to health and therefore to the skin. With its holistic approach, Ayurveda recommends stress management, simple physical activity, regular meditation, sufficient water and sleep to complement and enhance the effects of other Ayurvedic beauty rituals we may follow. In addition, these practices balance the body’s hormone levels, calm the mind and even boost immunity.

In addition to a healthy diet and lifestyle, it is equally necessary to follow healthy daily hygiene rituals; because certain practices, even if we follow the perfect diet for our body, can clearly worsen the condition of our skin.

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO, HYGIENICALLY, TO KEEP YOUR SKIN MOISTURISED

1.- Limit daily showers to 5 or 10 minutes. If we shower daily, it is better to use a salt stone to wash ourselves. Soap should only be left for when we come back from the gym.

2.- Use mild soaps, detergents and cosmetics. Glycerine soaps in bars are highly recommended, as well as cold saponified soaps with a high rate of overgreasing, of course.

If you do not know how to make them and need to buy a commercial soap, try to avoid gels that do not respect the skin’s microbiota. New generation shower gels, such as Sanex shower gels, are already designed to respect the skin’s bacterial flora.

3.- The same applies to commercial creams. There are already creams on the market such as those from Dr. Organic that have probiotics added to respect the skin’s microbiome. Specifically, in this Dr. Organic cream we were telling you about, you can see in its composition the addition of active ferments (*LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT LYSATE, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT, KEY ACTIVE: Probiotic).

Without a doubt, these new generation creams are much more tolerable for all skin types, especially the most sensitive or problematic ones.

4.- Use a humidifier during the winter when the heating is on to prevent the room from drying out.

5.- Drink more water throughout the day, always without forcing ourselves because this also has negative consequences. A good tip is to drink herbal teas or juices that we like (some people add small pieces of lime, fruit or cinnamon to water to make it more palatable), because this way we end up drinking fluids without forcing ourselves and causing an electrolyte imbalance in our body.

WHAT THE SKIN NEEDS AT A COSMETIC LEVEL TO STAY HYDRATED

If our skin is still dry and flaky, it is a good idea to apply a moisturising cream or a moisturising mask. Before buying any skin care product, it is a good idea to know your skin type in order to adapt the product, whether it is commercial or homemade. Homemade cosmetics are the best, as you know 😊

In any case, you should avoid products that can clog your pores and cause acne, as the products you will then have to use to treat it can sometimes dry out your skin even more.

The key, as always, is diet.

Basically, very few natural ingredients are needed to keep our skin hydrated and nourished. If you make natural cosmetics, make them minimalist. Why? What does your skin need on a cosmetic level to stay hydrated: fats, butters, oils, herbal extracts containing nutrients, vitamins, and little else. And natural vegetable oils and fats, as well as herbal extracts, already contain all those vitamins and antioxidants the skin needs, the fresher they are, the less preservatives and synthetic ingredients they contain.

There is no need to add silk proteins, urea, allantoin, hydrolysed marine collagen, hydrolysed elastin, vegetable squalene, essential oils in quantities of 1 gram, trehalose, chamomile oil or borage Bio, which cost a fortune, etc, etc, etc … Oh, and let’s not forget the addition of 1 gram of organic preservative, always, but at the same time synthetic.

All you are doing is adding to the coffers of the suppliers of cosmetic raw materials without achieving what you intended from the beginning, which is to learn how to take care of your skin independently and without depending on dozens of synthetically processed commercial products.

That’s like going to the supermarket and, instead of buying the vegetable ingredients to prepare a natural soup yourself, i.e. (celery, potatoes, leek, etc.), you are advised that you have to buy these bouillon cubes to enrich your soup with vitamins, that you have to add glutamate to give it a more intense flavour, or this or that flavouring to make it more appetising.

Doesn’t it seem absurd if someone suggests something like that when you go to buy the ingredients to prepare your own natural soup? Well, that’s what natural cosmetics suppliers do with the recipes for creams and other products that they propose on their websites and blogs.

For that, you can buy a commercial cream such as Dr. Organic, or Dr. Hauschka’s Rose Cream, which will be cheaper, don’t you think?

*Dr. Hauschka’s Rose Cream: This cream, although it does not contain probiotics like Dr. Organic’s previous one, has a simpler and more natural composition of ingredients than many of the recipes advocated by home cosmetics blogs. That’s why it feels so good on the skin!

WHAT WE DO WANT TO ADD TO OUR HOMEMADE COSMETIC RECIPES IS

Cold-pressed vegetable oils, beeswax (the best known emulsifier), natural fats and butters, herbal extracts, tinctures and vegetable oils, which we can also prepare ourselves with dried plants from our garden.

Now, that’s environmentally friendly!

And we can even add orange or oat powder extracts to our recipes, which are very easy to obtain from orange peels or oat flakes from the supermarket.

And what do you need for this, almost nothing, dry your plants, and then grind them with a coffee grinder to incorporate them in the form of a powdered extract into your preparations. The same goes for oat flakes, or orange or lemon peels, once they have been dried.

And, if you want to prepare an oleate, the same dried plants are left to macerate in oil. And if what you want is a tincture or a hydroglycerinated extract, then in alcohol and vegetable glycerine.

In any case, and this is the golden rule, the best and most effective treatment is to try to ingest the nutrients and vitamins the skin needs by following the healthy diet that best suits our metabolism and rhythm of life. Don’t you think this is much more logical than trying to deliver those vitamins topically with the addition of preservatives and other ingredients synthesised in a laboratory?

KINDS OF NATURAL COSMETICS

Moisturising or hydrating products are based on vegetable glycerin derived from saponified vegetable fats, which draws water from the air and deeper layers of the skin into the stratum corneum to provide hydration.

Occlusives, such as beeswax, soybean oil and lanolin, form a barrier that prevents water from evaporating. It is possible to make vegetable lanolin, to add to our cosmetic preparations, with shea butter and rosin. This recipe is still pending.

Emollients such as coconut oil, shea butter and colloidal oatmeal make the skin soft.

Regenerators, which are a combination of hydration and regeneration, are mainly based on natural or powdered aloe vera.

Hydration goes beneath the skin barrier. It infuses water into the cells to “replenish” them, and this is perfectly possible with all-natural products such as Ayurvedic masks and creams. And it is not only possible, but also very interesting when you consider that at least 60% of the substances that come into contact with the skin end up in the body. Some of the toxic compounds are eliminated via the liver and kidneys, but others accumulate in organs and tissues and can cause long-term hormonal disorders and various diseases.

This is why Ayurveda always advises not to put anything on our skin that is not edible at the same time.

HOW TO MAKE OLEOMACERATES, TINCTURES AND HYDROGLYCERINE EXTRACTS

There are various types of extracts, such as tinctures, where we use ethanol (organic alcohol) or vodka as solvents; or hydroglycerinated extracts, where we use water and vegetable glycerine as solvents; or hydroalcoglycerinated extracts, which use water, ethanol and glycerine, and which are more complete. And, of course, oleomacerates, in which we extract the fat-soluble components of plants. We are going to talk about all of them and how to process them below.

Because, you should know that we prefer to use oleomacerate extracts in ointments and hydroglyceric extracts in tonics and shampoos. In creams, both types can be added.

HOW TO MAKE OLEOMACERATES

An OLEADO is the result of macerating a medicinal or aromatic plant rich in fat-soluble components in a vegetable oil. It can also be called OLEOMACERATE. Thus, the vegetable oil dissolves the fat-soluble ingredients of the plant and the properties of the plant are transferred to the oil. Different types of oil are often used, such as olive, sunflower or coconut oil, the important thing is that they are cold-pressed virgin oils.

In the case of oleomacerates, the compounds to be extracted are those that are soluble and related to fats. By macerating the plant in the oil, we are therefore extracting the fat-soluble compounds from the plant so that we can easily introduce them into our preparations or use them directly on the skin or hair. In this way, we can easily and effectively take advantage of the active principles of the plants and benefit from their properties.

Some oleomacerates widely used in natural cosmetics are: calendula oil, rosemary oil, arnica oil, hypericum oil or chamomile oil, for example …

We often have plants in the garden, or even in pots, that we do not know that if we dry them, they can be very useful for making many types of extracts which, depending on the solvent we use, will become oleomacerates, tinctures or hydroglycerine extracts.

WHY MAKE AN OLEOMACERATE

If anyone wonders why it is interesting to prepare oleomacerates, when we have essential oils, which are much more potent; it is important to know that not all components of a plant enter into the steam distillation of essential oils. Only the smallest molecules are extracted by this method, so the full essence of the plant is never captured. In this sense, if you can buy a C02 extract from a plant, know that it is much more complete because its distillation process is simply better and more capable of extracting the distilled essence of the plant.

In the case of oleomacerates, the maceration process captures the heavier and larger molecules. Other extraction techniques capture different chemical substances, as mentioned in the case of critical C02 extracts.

Thus, for example, when making a lavender-based cream, the therapeutic effect can be enhanced by also including macerated lavender oil and even fluid extracts or hydrosols.

Another advantage of macerated oils is that they add properties to our recipes in a gentler way than essential oils. Essential oils sometimes cause rashes on sensitive skin and irritation with daily use, even on normal skin.

We may also have access to a plant that does not have a corresponding essential oil, such as lilac or elderflower, for example, or we may want to use a plant whose essential oil is very expensive, such as jasmine or rose, for example. Through maceration, we can access the healing fat-soluble chemical compounds of these plants and use them in our skin care.

As we said before, we often have plants in the garden that we don’t know that if we dry them they can be very useful. This is the case of the humble marigolds. I am sure that many of us have them in the garden without knowing it. However, marigold or immortelle flowers have a great therapeutic value if we pick them and dry them.

The marigold is a plant with great therapeutic potential for the skin. It regenerates, combats possible germs and fights inflammation. It is a restorative par excellence for irritated, itchy skin, eczema, chilblains caused by the cold, etc.

Another use of calendula oil is to treat earaches. We put 2 to 3 drops in the ear and hold a bag or warm cloth over it. However, if the symptoms persist or if there is an infection, it is best to consult a doctor.

By infusing the flowers in oil, we can extract many of these properties and incorporate them into easy-to-use products such as: recipes for balms, lip balms, soaps, creams and lotions.

That is why we are going to explain below the two known methods to prepare an oleate, that is, to infuse or macerate a vegetable oil with the properties of an herb or plant. In this case, we are going to explain how to prepare a marigold oil macerate, although it would be perfectly possible with any other dried plant or flower.

MARIGOLD MACERATED OIL

For this we will need dried marigold flowers. Fresh herbs can also be used to prepare the infused oils, but this is not a good idea because the water content of fresh flowers and herbs tends to create mould and spoil the oils.

Simply spread the previously harvested flowers on a paper towel in a dry place or in the sun and turn them daily for one or two weeks until they are completely dry.

When they are dry, fill a glass jar 1/3 full with your dried flowers and fill it with an oil that does not rancid easily. The best oils are olive and coconut, because they do not go rancid as quickly as sunflower or soybean oil. It is also possible with jojoba oil, which does not rancid easily, although it is more expensive. Or almond oil. If you live in an area where it is cold in winter and coconut oil solidifies, you can mix it with another oil to keep it liquid.

After maceration, strain it and add 0.2% vitamin E as an antioxidant. This will extend the shelf life to a year or more. In this way you will have a pure marigold extract.

As the “natural freak” website says: “Jojoba and coconut oils are also often used or added, while sweet almond oil is better suited to smaller batches as it rancidifies faster than the other oils”

https://freakofnatural.com

Cover the jar tightly and store in a cool, dark place for a minimum of four weeks (40 days is ideal). Shake it periodically. There are even “schools” that say that you should give it the light of the sun and the moon, because of the energy issue. However, don’t worry if you don’t, the result will also be acceptable.

After 40 days, strain the flowers and our macerated oil is ready. To strain the herbs, you can use a cotton filter or a fine cloth, or even a paper coffee filter. In some cases, you will have to repeat the operation so that the oil is free of residues.

The oil, now infused, should be kept in a jar, preferably a dark glass jar so that it has a longer shelf life. Store the bottle in a dry, dark place, protected from heat sources. If we think that our oil may go rancid, we can add a little wheat germ oil or a few drops of vitamin E to prevent oxidation and rancidity.

As we said, to prepare a homemade oleado, it is enough to leave the dried plant to macerate in oil for a few days.

THE HOT INFUSION METHOD

The second method of infusion is a hot infusion method, which has been detailed for centuries in traditional herbal remedy manuals such as “Maria Treben’s Cures”.

This form of hot maceration is the most suitable for harder parts of the plant, such as the roots. The temperature should never exceed 40 ºC and, logically, we will need a container resistant to the temperature, such as a pyrex, etc.

Put the flask with the herbs in a bain-marie for 2 hours on a low heat. The time is relative, some people leave it for less time and with a little more temperature, it also depends on the hardness of the roots of the plant, etc. …

HOW TO MAKE TINCTURES AND HYDROGLYCERINE EXTRACTS

Tinctures consist of macerating a plant in ethanol (organic alcohol, or even vodka) to extract its active principles. Although they are widely used in natural medicine, as they can be directly ingested to take advantage of their medicinal properties, they can also be used in natural cosmetics to enrich our treatment creams. For example, comfrey tincture can be used to make an ointment with healing and soothing properties to treat haemorrhoids. However, oleates are much more commonly used because of their ease of incorporation into our oily preparations.

When preparing a tincture, we must use an organic alcohol (ethanol) with the appropriate alcohol content. For example, when we say that an alcohol is 96º, what we mean is that, out of every 100 grams of alcohol, 96 grams are alcohol and 4 grams are water.

The alcohol content to be used and the maceration time depend on the type of plant. In general terms, we can be guided by the following data:

1.-Flowers, leaves and delicate parts of a dried plant: use alcohol of about 70º, and leave them to macerate for 48 hours to a week.

2.-The hard stems, bark and roots need 80º alcohol and are left to macerate for 2-3 weeks.

3.-The resins, which are even harder, will need alcohol with a minimum alcohol content of 90º and we will leave them to macerate for 8-10 days.

This table explains the amount of water that needs to be added to 96° alcohol to dilute it:

I want 100 gr alcohol ofGrams I need of 96º alcoholGrams I need of water
70º73,526,5
80º8416
90º94,55,5

IMPORTANT: Never use normal pharmacy alcohol to make tinctures for internal use, as it contains toxic additives. In the case of external or topical use, for example to rub rosemary alcohol on the legs, we can use pharmacy alcohol without any problem, and for this, the table above will be very useful.

PREPARATION OF THE TINCTURES:

In general terms, to make the tinctures we will use ground dried plants, which will allow us to reduce their volume considerably so that we can cover them well with the alcohol.

The usual plant/alcohol ratio according to traditional pharmacopoeia is 1:5, what does this mean?  It means that for each part of plant we put 5 parts of alcohol (of the grade that suits each plant).

For example: Suppose we want to make a rosemary tincture. To do this, we weigh 20 g (one part) of ground rosemary and add 100 g (5 parts) of 70º alcohol, which is suitable for leaves and stems. If we do not have 70º alcohol, we prepare it with 73.5 g of 96º alcohol and 26.5 g of distilled or mineral water, as indicated in the table.

PREPARATION: Start by weighing the dried plant to be used and placing it in a clean, sterilised glass bottle that closes tightly.

Weigh the alcohol of the recommended strength according to the part of the plant to be used and add it to the bottle. The plant must be well covered.

Close the bottle tightly and keep it away from light and heat for the time necessary for maceration. Try to shake it at least once a day.

Once the maceration time has elapsed, it is filtered through a cloth strainer, or gauze, or paper filter. It is very important that it is well filtered and that no plant remains so that it does not become mouldy and spoil the preparation.

Finally, store the tincture in a dark glass container protected from light and heat, well labelled and with the date of preparation.

*Many people simply use raw vodka to make herbal tinctures and, we have to say, it works very well too. So if you are not making a commercial tincture, but for your own and your family’s use, know that vodka is also a great option.

Even Maria Treben’s famous Swedish herbs* are often macerated in brandy or eau-de-vie. *Maria Treben’s Swedish Herbs are a mixture of 11 medicinal plants, including bitter and digestive plants.

CONSERVATION: Tinctures do not need a preservative because of their high alcohol content. If they are well made and well filtered, they can be perfectly preserved for 3 to 5 years.

TIPS: When incorporating them into our cosmetic preparations, remember that they contain alcohol and therefore dry out the skin. We should also ensure that our tincture does not exceed 5% of the total formula for body use and 2% for facial use, always avoiding the eye contour area. Nor should they be applied to dry or chapped skin, which is better suited to other types of extracts.

PREPARATION OF HYDROGLYCERINATED and HYDROALCOGLYCERINATED EXTRACTS

Extracts can be prepared from glycerine in a variety of ways. The two most common types of extracts are HG (containing water and glycerine) and HAG (containing water, glycerine and alcohol).

HYDROGLYCERIN OR HG

For this type of maceration we will use a mixture of distilled water and liquid glycerine as a solvent. Depending on the plant used, the plant/solvent proportions, the water/glycerine proportions and the maceration times may vary.

Hydro-glycerine macerates are very good to add to our face creams. They are added in the aqueous phase, instead of glycerine. To make these macerates, we will normally use 70% vegetable glycerine and 30% water. This is known as the 30:70 ratio.

Quantities to be used:

As in the case of tinctures, we will use ground dried plants to reduce their volume and to be able to cover them well. Normally, we will use a glass container in which we will put our dried plant (more or less up to 1/3 of the container) and cover the rest with the solvent (glycerine – distilled water) in a ratio of 30:70, as we said, i.e. 30 grams of water for 70 grams of glycerine.

Example of mallow HG 30:70

We weigh 20 g of dried and ground malva sylvestris and pour it into a glass bottle. We prepare our solvent in a ratio of 30 % water and 70 % glycerine. To fill the glass bottle, at least three times as much solvent as dried plant should be added. That is, a plant/solvent ratio of 1:3.

As we had 20 grams of dried mallow flowers, we will add a minimum of 60 grams of solvent (20 grams x 3 parts = 60 grams). Of these 60 grams, 30% will be water and 70% glycerine. According to the rule of three, we will need approximately 18 grams of water and 42 grams of glycerine.

Now we pour the solvent into the bottle, stir well and close it. Store the bottle in a place away from light and heat. The maceration time will be between 8 and 20 days. During this time, shake the bottle from time to time. After the maceration time, filter the macerate through a coffee filter or a very tightly woven cotton cloth so that no traces of the marigold remain.

Our HG should preferably be packaged in a dark bottle, protected from light and heat, with its production date and name. This preparation does not require a preservative, just be careful to put it in the fridge in summer. With this precaution, you can keep it from one year to the next.

Also if you make it in a 50:50 ratio, i.e. half water, half glycerine. However, if we incorporate it immediately into one of our preparations, we will avoid all this. That is why it is better to prepare only a certain amount of product, the amount you are going to use soon.

HYDROALKYLGLYCERINATE OR HAG

Now we are going to prepare extracts with a mixture of water, ethanol and glycerine. With this type of macerates we will be able to extract more active principles than with only glycerine and water. The plant/solvent ratio will also be 1:3 in most cases.

As we said, these types of extracts are preferably added to our facial tonics, serums, masks and facial creams. To do this, add 1% to 5% to these types of preparations.

And we will add up to 15% by weight of our product for preparations such as creams or body washes, as well as hair treatment shampoos.

Example of the amount of solvent for 25 g of plant according to the table above:

21 grams of 96º pharmacy alcohol

29 g water

25 g glycerine

In total, the 75 grams of solvent we have to add to our 25 grams of plant, according to the 1:3 rule

A simpler way to prepare our HAG is to use vodka (40 proof alcohol). In this case, the solvent mixture will consist of 2 parts vodka and 1 part glycerine.

Example of the amount of solvent for 25 g of plant:

50 g vodka

25 g glycerine.

And, of course, you don’t need to add water, so the preparation keeps even better.

The steps to follow to elaborate the HAG are the same as for the hydroglycerine, the only difference is that in this case the maceration time is 8 to 10 days, also trying to shake it several times a day. The HAGs can be incorporated into our cosmetic preparations without any problem, in a proportion of up to 15% for body preparations and between 1-5% for facial preparations.

AN EXAMPLE OF HYDRO-GLYCERINATED MALLOW EXTRACT

Mallow has hydrophilic compounds, so it is best to make a hydro-glycerine extract with water and glycerine to get the most active ingredients out of this soft, protective flower.

Ingredients:

10 g dried mallow flowers in a small glass container (to which we add 30 g of solvent)

9 g distilled water

21 g vegetable glycerine

PROCEDURE:

Crush the flowers well and add the water and glycerine solution. Leave to macerate for 2 weeks, protected from light and heat and shaking from time to time. Then filter and store in the refrigerator.

Mallow Flower Extract is recognised for its moisturising, soothing, emollient and natural collagen-activating properties, as well as its ability to regulate trans-epidermal water loss in the skin. This is due to the mucilage content of its flowers. It also has a healing and anti-inflammatory action.

Mallow is also used in products to treat tired legs due to its content of venoactive flavonoids, i.e. being able to decrease the permeability of blood capillaries and increase their resistance.

 It is also used in eye drops to decongest inflamed eyes, as it tones up the microcirculation in the eye.

HYDROALCOGLYCERINATED CUCUMBER EXTRACT

The best-known benefit of cucumbers is their soothing, calming effects. People often use cucumber extract for the skin to soothe morning puffiness or any irritation.  This is partially due to cucumbers’ powerful hydration content.  But cucumbers also contain Vitamin K, A, and C, which not only act as antioxidants but also have anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects on the skin.  Cucumber extract skin benefits also include reducing dark circles and slightly smoothing out wrinkles.

Recently, researchers found that cucumber fruit extract contains rutin and ascorbic acid oxidase, both free radical scavengers that can help protect against skin damage. 

The plant/solvent ratio shall be 1:2, i.e. two parts solvent to one part plant.

And the ratio of water, glycerine, alcohol shall be 30:40:30.

In this case, as we have used 15 grams of fresh crushed cucumber, we will add the quantities, according to the proportion 30:40:30, in which we include a proportion of double the solvent than the crushed cucumber, because 9+12+9 is equivalent to 30 grams of solvent, which is double the plant we had, in this case, double the crushed cucumber.

9 grams of distilled water, which is 30% of the total 30 grams of solvent.

12 grams of vegetable glycerine, which is 40% of 30 grams.

9 grams of alcohol, which is 30% of 30 grams.

PROCEDURE:

After cutting the cucumber into very small pieces, about half a centimetre in size, i.e. almost crushed, place it in a wide-mouthed glass container with an airtight lid.

Add the solvent of water, glycerine and alcohol and leave it covered for a week or so.

Filter it through a dense cotton cloth.

After 8 to 10 days, our macerate will be ready to be incorporated into our cosmetic preparations. We will keep it in the refrigerator while we are not going to use it, although thanks to the mixture of glycerine and alcohol, it does not require the addition of synthetic preservatives.