Proposal of two creams emulsified with natural emulsifiers of vegetable origin

Homemade cosmetics is something different from cosmetics that a company dedicated to natural cosmetics can make to sell to its potential customers.

Fundamentally, in home cosmetics we make cosmetic products in very small quantity and as a solution to our personal needs. It does not make much sense, in this case, to use preservatives that are not totally natural or, sometimes, even to insist on using them when it is not necessary since, for example, we are going to use our cream or cosmetic product in a short space of time.

And it is that in homemade cosmetics it is possible to prepare a very small dose of the product to ensure that it does not spoil and, even, that we can keep it in the fridge of our house.

Logically, this is not possible when we intend to sell our product in a store and we have to go through a series of cosmetic requirements and regulations stipulated according to the law of the country in which we want to market it. Natural cosmetics also have a series of seals of ecological production (COSMOS, ECO-CERT, etc …) with a series of requirements that our product must also meet.

Likewise, it also does not make sense to use ingredients and emulsifiers that can be aggressive with our skin in everyday use.

 

ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL AND ECOLOGICAL COSMETICS:

It connects us with nature and drives us to return to simpler formulas, such as those used by our grandmothers.

It is a cosmetic loaded with natural ingredients. It is not the same to use a cream with argan oil, rich in nutrients, than one with petroleum derivatives and other inert substances.

Bet on biodegradable natural ingredients that ensure environmental sustainability with substances that are not toxic to the life of the planet.

Avoid toxicity that comes from heavy metals, hydrocarbons, pesticides, dioxins, radioactivity, mycotoxins, drug residues, nitrates or nitrosamines and use packaging that is as respectful as possible with the environment, prioritizing recyclables.

It does not allow ingredients of petrochemical origin, nanoparticles or ingredients that have been genetically modified. Nor does animal testing, in accordance with European regulations.

HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS

All this that applies to organic cosmetics also applies to homemade cosmetics in a simpler way.

Homemade cosmetics, more than a cosmetic loaded with natural assets, is and must be a “living” cosmetic because many of our cosmetic formulations can be made with ingredients that we all have in the pantry at home.

And, of course, if we use edible products, as the Ayurvedic tradition says, it is a naturally organic cosmetic without toxics and, often, even without preservatives.

HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS AND EMULSIONS

In natural cosmetics it is possible to make two different types of creams:

1.-Anhydrous creams based on butters and oils that do not contain water and to which beeswax is added to integrate them. Those creams “do not emulsify” because, by definition, if they do not have water, it would not be an emulsion.

Those creams, more properly called balms or ointments, as we said, are not actually emulsions. Ointments and ointments consist of butters or vegetable oils that are “melted” with natural beeswax. Since they do not carry water, they do not need preservatives, just a few drops of vitamin E to avoid the rancidity of the butters and lengthen their durability.

2.-The creams, properly, consist of an aqueous phase and an oily phase and require, therefore, a self-emulsifying wax such as lanette wax, polywax, montanov, olivem, etc. to perform the emulsifying process. In addition, they need, normally, preservatives that prevent molds and bacteria that can form from the water contained in our cream.

 

COMPOSITION SCHEME OF AN EMULSION

Emulsifying wax is necessary so that both phases can be integrated in a stable way, that is, so that water and oil are not separated.

 

 

     Aqueous phase + Oil phase + Emulsifier

 

So easy, you don’t really need more to make a simple basic cream if you choose the components well.

And, very importantly, in homemade natural cosmetics, we will try to choose as natural emulsifying waxes and preservatives as possible to make our creams, as this is what will make the difference in terms of the better absorption and tolerance of our products.

The secret of a cream that hydrates the skin is not to add a dozen vitamins and active ingredients. That is not going to work, especially if they are synthetic. The secret of a moisturizing cream is its compatibility with the dermis because then the skin is capable of absorbing and assimilating it. And that is achieved with emulsifiers and preservatives that are as natural as possible.

The skin cannot assimilate well the chemical components that it does not recognize. Then it is said that this or that substance lacks bioavailability * when what is meant is that the body does not recognize it and rejects it. For our body, such a substance becomes toxic. As you can see, this process does not only occur with food at the level of digestion. It also happens with the nutrients that we smear on our skin.

* Bioavailable: The ability of a drug or other substance to be absorbed and used by the body.

 

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS

To elaborate a little more our cream and provide it with the specificity that each specific problem requires, we have a final phase in which we add the so-called active ingredients.

The active ingredients are almost always added at the end of our preparation since the emulsifying process normally needs heat to be carried out and the active ingredients are usually thermosensitive elements.

As you know, our philosophy of homemade cosmetics prioritizes naturally occurring ingredients and minimalist cosmetic compositions: “We believe less is more” if the combination of ingredients is well formulated and works.

Thus, after extracting from the water bath the emulsion of the oily and aqueous phases and removing them well, we will proceed to add the active ingredients chosen according to the problem we want to treat, and that range from:

For a calming effect: A small dose of vegetable oils of raspberry, blueberry, camelina, CO2 extracts of calendula or German chamomile, vegetable bisabol or a concentrate of phytosterols …

For a moisturizing and softening effect: Vegetable glycerin, turmeric oleate, vegetable elastin extracted from wheat protein, jasmine essential oil, comfrey extract, containing natural vegetable allantoin…

For a purifying effect: Organic propolis extract, the essentials oils of tea tree or lemon, rosemary CO2 extract, vegetable salicylic acid extract from the bark of the willow…

For a repairing effect: Skin repairing actives such as concentrated dragon blood extract, honey, Kiwi CO2 extract, niacinamide, gotu kola extract*, aloe extract powdered or in gel form …

*Gotu kola is a powerful skin healer that blurs acne marks. It is also soothing, moisturizing and nourishing so it improves the elasticity of the skin and renews the tissues and therefore it is included in many anti-aging treatments.

For an anti-aging effect: The vegetable oils of rosehip, argan, borage, cherry, blueberry, babchi, nopal, turmeric oleate, seaweed extract, vitamin C, bakuchi extract (bakuchiol), essential oils of linaloe *, Ho wood, rockrose, lavender, pink geranium, incense …

*Linaloe essential oil: Due to its high percentage of linalool it is similar in its uses to the essential oil of rosewood, today protected by its overexploitation. Skin tonic and astringent, regenerating and firming.

* Palo de Ho essential oil (twin brother of Palo de Rosa) has excellent efficacy and optimal skin tolerance. It is used a lot on mature skin to combat the effects of time.

For the care of atopic-prone skin: Camelina * and chaulmoogra * vegetable oils, black seed oil*, oat infused oil, calendula infused oil, colloidal oatmeal powder, German chamomile, patchouli and peppermint essential oils …

* Camelina sativa oil is rich in omega-3 acids, vitamin E, and antioxidants, compounds that can suppress biological reactions that lead to inflammation in the body.

* Chaulmoogra is a “medicinal” oil of Indian and Chinese tradition, used for the treatment of leprosy since ancient times, it has excellent properties against eczema, acne and atopic dermatitis. It is also used against excessive dryness and roughness of the skin due to psoriasis and as a carrier oil as it also has a homogenizing action on skin pigmentation.

* Black seed oil (nigella sativa) acts as a moisturizer that hydrates the hair and softens the skin. It is beneficial for people with eczema as it reduces its severity; for people with acne because the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects of black seed oil enhance it, and also to treat psoriasis.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352241015000286

Even, simply, a vitamin E antioxidant that we all know and use or the eventual addition of some essential oils.

We propose in this post the elaboration of two creams emulsified with natural emulsifiers. In the first instance, a cerate based on oat’s infused oil and natural rice emulsifying wax and that is specially formulated to moisturize the most delicate skins.

We have all heard about the multiple properties of calendula when it comes to treating sensitive skin affected by dermatitis and eczema.

In a previous post we elaborated a calendula ointment and a few more recipes with the idea of dealing with these problems.

However, oats, without being as well-known as calendula, also has a lot of properties to treat this type of skin.

Galen’s cerate, which is how this formulation is known, is an ancient cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparation, traditionally made from sweet almond oil, rose hydrosol, beeswax and borax. It is a cream of the type “water in oil” with a creamy and rich texture and nutritional and protective properties very popular with sensitive and dry skin. Beeswax, in combination with borax, produces the emulsion of water in the oil. However, the use of borax in cosmetic products can be potentially irritating, as well as complicated to handle.

With this vegetable rice wax it is relatively easy to produce this emulsion of distilled water in oat oleate. Rice wax brings a less thick texture to our preparation without detracting from creaminess. As it is a totally natural wax it can happen, as with soy lecithin (another natural emulsifier), that our emulsion loses some stability. In that case, we should know that it is possible to add a co-emulsifier such as cetyl alcohol.  Or, in some cases, as with lecithin, a thickening factor such as xanthan gum.

Cetyl alcohol (INCI: Cetyl Alcohol) is nothing more than a fatty and solid alcohol of vegetable origin that gives more consistency and texture to creams and lotions. It has a very interesting property: it is able to attract moisture getting a much softer skin. It is thus highly moisturizing like vegetable glycerine. As a co-emulsifier we will dose it at 0.5 – 1%, and to give consistency we can add up to 5% alcohol.

To make this cream of relatively light texture (the ointments based on butters usually have a heavier texture and that is why they are used at night or in winter that is less hot) you will need a small container of about 50 ml, rice wax and oat infused oil.

As a cosmetic ingredient, vegetable oat infused oil is recognized for its nutritional, restorative and restructuring properties, thanks to omega-6 essential fatty acids, which favour the natural repair process of the skin. Oats are also rich in ceramides and phospholipids, close to the natural lipids of the skin, which give it excellent skin compatibility. By strengthening the hydrolipidic film of the skin, it protects the skin from dehydration and softens it by also avoiding pruritus. These soothing and regenerating qualities make it perfect for the care of sensitive and reactive skin.

As an asset we have added at the end a few drops of vegetable bisabol. Organic bisabol or vegetable bisabol comes from the distillation of the essential oil of Candeia, a tree native to Brazil. The leaves and flowers of this tree are known for their medicinal properties, as is the essential oil that is obtained from the distillation of its bark.

Unlike synthetic bisabol, vegetable bisabol is most effective even at lower doses. Oily and translucent, bisabol is a colourless to pale yellow liquid with a vegetable and sweet smell. It is neither toxic nor irritating and is a very effective ingredient for soothing irritated skin. Recognized for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties, it is an asset of choice in the care of sensitive and damaged skin. It is also interesting its antifungal and antibacterial action and that is why it is used a lot in the preparation of repairing creams, creams for after the sun, creams for sensitive and damaged skin, and even in deodorants.

 

OATMEAL CERATE WITH RICE WAX

Ingredients for 50 ml:

Rice wax 3’5 grs

Oat oleate 18 grs

Mineral water 26 grams or 26 ml, as you prefer.

Four drops of vitamin E

Optional: 8 drops of vegetable bisabol that will also facilitate the conservation of our cream.

As you can see, in homemade natural cosmetics, and especially to treat sensitive skin, we recommend always using preservatives of totally natural origin or prepare, as in this case, small amounts of product that we are going to consume for sure before they can spoil.

Operative mode:

Prepare the oily phase (rice wax and oat oil in a bowl) and put it in the water bath.

At the same time, we put the watery phase to the water bath in another separate bowl.

When both phases are hot (about 70ºC) and the wax melted, we can gradually add the aqueous phase to the oily phase by removing vigorously with a mini-blender.

Now we can take the bowl out of the water bath without stopping to stir for 5 minutes. It’s time for us to add the drops of vitamin E and, optionally, the droplets of vegetable bisabol.

We can already package in a glass container, if possible, to extend its expiration.

Note: Cerates are very creamy. Its penetration and emollience capacity are very good.

 

HOT MACERATION METHOD TO PREPARE OUR OAT INFUSED OIL

With the cold method it is easier for the properties of the vegetable oil to remain intact and for the oil to absorb more active ingredient of the plant.

However, the hot method is more suitable for the hard parts of the plant such as the roots, or, in this case, to make an oleate from a cereal such as oatmeal. We will try, of course, that it is in flakes as crushed as possible so that the active ingredients of the cereal are better transmitted to our oil.

The easiest way to do this is to the water bath. We put in a bowl of thermo-resistant glass the oats powder and the oil over medium-low heat, let heat for about 45 minutes, approximately, over low heat so that the temperature remains constant and does not exceed 40°C degrees in which our oil could deteriorate. It is important to remove from time to time with a wooden spoon. After this time, we filter well and package as in the previous case.

It is advisable, if you can, to leave the oil and the plant in maceration a day or two at least before filtering and bottling it.

 

OUR SECOND PROPOSAL OF EMULSIFIED CREAM WITH VEGETABLE EMULSIFIER

We have chosen turmeric oleate, which we will prepare by the cold method if we have turmeric powder extract. This cream is very effective because the active substance contained in turmeric (curcumin) has on the skin an action similar to cortisone. Turmeric, which also lacks side effects, treats and softens dermatitis, psoriasis, inflammation, and excessive skin reactivity that some sensitive skin present.

At a cosmetic level, it adds shine to the skin and makes it radiant, treats hyperpigmentation with regular use and even delays the aging process.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378874118305221?via%3Dihub

“Anti-aging properties of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj: A scientific approach to its use in Javanese tradition”

Its antibacterial effects also endow it with capabilities to treat acne, and its anti-inflammatory effects, to soften the affected skins of rosacea.

Emulsified in this way with natural soy lecithin, which we can also prepare in a homemade way, it has a great compatibility and skin absorbency.

It is possible to prepare more amount of soy lecithin than we need because soy lecithin is preserved very well, up to a year, if we preserve it in a glass container and sheltered from light and sudden changes in temperature.

To prepare soy lecithin at home, it will be enough to put in a container in the water bath about 30 grams of soy lecithin for 20 grams of sunflower oil and heat them until a paste has been formed. It is necessary to stir very well so that the lecithin powder is completely melted in the oil and no lumps remain. Then we will take it out of the fire and introduce it in a recent glass to be able to reuse it in our future cosmetic preparations.

 

TURMERIC BUTTER AND LECITHIN

To prepare 100 grams of product, we would put:

50 grams of shea butter or mango (if we prefer a lighter texture)

25 ml turmeric oleate

25 ml of incense hydrolat

1 tablespoon of 10 grams of soy lecithin

15 drops of turmeric EO

15 drops of GSE (grapefruit seed extract)

Notes: GSE or Leucidal are the most natural preservatives that we can use in this recipe, because, as we know, this type of recipes that contain water are at risk of moulding fast without the preservative. If we have benzoin tincture*, it is also possible to use it because it also has a mild depigmenting effect.

*Benzoin resin is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antifungal and healing. And it is also depigmenting and rejuvenating. Due to its calming effect, it is used above all for skin problems such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis.

PROCEDURE:

Put the butter first in the water bath and light heat and when it is melted add turmeric oleate and lecithin and remove until everything is perfectly integrated. At this point, and over minimum heat, we will add the hydrolat while still stirring.

Put out the fire and stir well. Everything must now be a homogeneous mass that we will leave warm to add the preservative Leucidal and the turmeric essential oil.

If you prefer a more fluid cream, you can increase the amounts of turmeric oleate or incense hydrolat.

When the mixture has thickened, remove it from the heat and let it stand at room temperature. We will bottle it in a container if possible of glass so that it is better preserved. If we have not added any preservatives, we will need to keep it in the refrigerator.

As you will see, the oleate, and our cream, therefore, have a light-yellow colour. Turmeric’s properties have passed to oil, but the pigments that stain the skin and hair have disappeared. However, it is still necessary to take precautions with light clothing in contact with our skin.

For the rest, it is an emulsified butter with a very pleasant texture and a great penetration capacity.

 

When looking for a natural depigmenting cream with the right ingredients it is difficult to know if antioxidants will fulfill their function as well as specifically depigmenting substances.

And to advise oneself to prepare one’s own cream or depigmenting serum, research can become an important task given the wide range of theoretically clarifying substances that flood us everywhere.

And it is that, although preparing a cream to moisturize our skin daily with natural elements is something relatively easy, it is not the same to try to prepare a depigmenting cream that is natural and that also works without attacking the skin.

Even out the tone of our skin face is something demanded, and increasingly in a more sustainable and less aggressive way. Everybody wants to wear a beautiful skin without spots that age our appearance.

THE ORIGIN OF SKIN SPOTS

-Most pigment spots are caused by excessive exposure to the sun (solar lentigos). So they tend to appear in greater numbers in the parts of the body that are most often exposed to the sun such as the hands, face and arms. They are usually small and with a dark tone.

-We will highlight a very common pigmentary spot in pregnant women and in women who take contraceptive pills. These spots are called melasma or chloasma and are caused by a hormonal change.

-They can also be caused by some type of trauma, either by a cosmetic procedure, laser type, chemical peels, even a juvenile acne can cause a dark spot on the skin that can last over time and produce an injury and is when post-inflammatory lesions appear, by healing the injury.

AND ITS MANIFESTATIONS

Whether they are age-related spots such as solar lentigos, or spots caused by acne inflammations, or spots due to hormonal changes (melasmas) that all women go through in their lives; hyperpigmentation manifests itself in the skin due to an excess of melanin production, which is a natural pigment found in the skin, hair and iris of the eyes, and which is formed from the oxidation of tyrosine.

This production can be altered for several reasons. Normally, melanin is produced naturally in our body as a defense mechanism against UV rays produced by the sun, and acts as a natural sunscreen. Therefore, depending on our skin color, eyes and hair, we have a skin phototype I, II, III, IV, V and VI, from the lightest to the darkest.

As we said, there are several types of hyperpigmentations originated by different reasons:

1.-FRECKLES, for example, are in most cases of genetic origin and usually appear on light skin on the parts of the body most exposed to the sun.

2-SOLAR LENTIGO: They are hyperpigmentations with a round and flat shape, of small size. They are spots of shade between yellowish brown and dark brown, reaching black. They are produced by an excess of production in the synthesis of melanin. They are located in areas exposed to the sun and stimulated by UV radiation.

3-MELASMA: It is usually located on the forehead-nose, cheeks and nose and lower jaw. It is usually due to a hormonal factor such as pregnancy (second month), estrogens and progestogens, ovarian dysfunction and thyroid dysfunction, together with solar radiation. Melasma is aggravated by sun exposure. When there is an increase in the number of melanocytes, we call them nevi or moles, which are of variable size and shape and have a dark, even black color. If they appear with a very exaggerated growth, exudation, itching, pain or inflammatory signs, it is necessary to consult directly with the doctor, to rule out other diseases or that they worsen.

In this blog we are dedicated to natural cosmetics and from this theoretical framework we want to analyze all the possibilities that “slow” natural cosmetics offer. To do this, we will start by clarifying the possibilities that conventional cosmetics offer.

Conventional cosmetics use many types of substances to lighten facial blemishes and even out the tone of our skin.

CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT OF HYPERPIGMENTATION

Conventional cosmetics treat hyperpigmentation with depigmenting substances that attenuate or make disappear the spots produced on the skin by melanin.

Depending on the type of blemish on the skin and the depth of that spot, one type of depigmentant or another is chosen. If the stain is more superficial, it is easier to remove, in these types of spots are used depigmenting hydroquinone type, kojic acid, tretinoin and glycolic acid.

In deeper spots a mixture of these acids plus glycolic acid is used. All these acids are contraindicated in times of pregnancy and lactation.

TYPES OF DEPIGMENTANTES according to Ferrer pharmacy in Valencia (Spain):

https://www.farmaferrer.com/blog/c/consejos/como-podemos-eliminar-nuestras-manchas-en-la-piel

HYDROQUINONE and derivatives: Hydroquinone acts by inhibiting tyrosinase whose usual concentration as a depigmenting agent is usually used at 2 and 6%. At higher concentrations it can cause many adverse reactions. Care should also be taken to apply the product only in dark areas, since, if applied in other areas, the depigmenting would also lighten them leaving the skin of the whitish contour.

A chemical peel with glycolic acid is usually associated with hydroquinone treatment to enhance the effect of hydroquinone. The treatment is slow and you have to spend at least three months, it is easier to treat light skin than dark, and the results are seen earlier, you also have to protect the skin with a sunscreen since that skin is more unprotected, for This is usually done in winter.

Once the treatment is finished, the use of hydroquinone depigmenting will continue with a discontinuous use pattern, but sun protection will continue to reduce the risk of possible recurrences. Sometimes 0.025% tretinoin is also used concurrently with hydroquinone.

ASCORBIC ACID OR VITAMIN C: Ascorbic acid, despite its low stability, since it oxidizes very easily, has a good depigmenting activity. It also works by inhibiting tyrosinase, which decreases the formation of melanin. Apart from having many benefits for the skin such as: tissue healing, fibroblast synthesis, reorganization of collagen fibers, providing luminosity, increasing the resistance capacity of blood vessels, reducing expression wrinkles, as well as the ability to promote gentle exfoliation and cell renewal.

AZELAIC ACID: Azelaic acid also has a depigmenting action since it inhibits the synthesis of tyrosinase. This acid is always more indicated in skin with rosacea and acne, therefore recommended in depigmentation caused by inflammation and infection of the hair follicles in oily skin affected by acne or in skin prone to seborrheic dermatitis.

KOJIC ACID: Its main action is the inhibition of tyrosinase. Other acids to highlight for their depigmenting action that we can find in the market are creams based on phytic acid, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, together with vegetable extracts derived from bearberry, licorice or mulberry. All of them in association with glycolic acid.

MELATONIN: Melatonin works by preventing melanin accumulations from forming, and unifies its distribution, reducing the formation of spots in the future. It is a powerful antioxidant, which reduces free radicals formed in the skin due to stress, pollution, etc.

GLUTATHION: Inhibits tyrosinase and melanin synthesis, as well as its deposits. It reduces free radicals, like melatonin, favoring the activation of tyrosinase with the subsequent increase in melanin.

FERULIC ACID: With a particular depigmenting value since it offers a photoprotective effect that prevents harmful UVA rays and harmful free radicals from penetrating the skin. In addition to reducing blemishes by inhibiting the production of melanin.

ARBUTIN: Action on melanin blocking tyrosinase. All skin types, especially skin with acne and sensitive skin or dermatitis such as rosacea, couperose, eczema and psoriasis.

TRANEXAMIC ACID: Inhibits melanin by blocking tyrosinase. It has lower range and potency than hydroquinone when used topically.

LICORICE: Prevents sun pigmentation and inhibits tyrosinase activity. The glycine it contains evens the tone through a better distribution of melanin in the skin. It is especially effective when combined with Glutathione, Melatonin, Arbutin or Kojic acid.

GIGAWHITE: Inhibits melanin by blocking tyrosinase, it is the substitute for hydroquinone in very sensitive skin that has little tolerance to hydroquinone in medium-high concentrations.

NIACINAMIDE (Vitamin B-3): Cellularly interferes with the activity between keratinocytes and melanocytes, reducing melanogenesis and thus the risk of spots. It does not inhibit melanin, but if the mechanism of action of melanocytes-keratinocytes so associated with other depigmenting, enhances its action and that of its associates.

ALPHAHYDROXY ACIDS (AHA): They are formulated at low concentrations since they promote light exfoliation by reducing the cohesion of the corneocytes and stimulating new growth in the basal layer. If they are formulated at high concentrations, they can cause very aggressive exfoliations.

The most commonly used AHAs are Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Ferulic Acid. They are usually combined in terms of their peeling power.

Mandelic Acid: It comes from bitter almonds and is an antibacterial depigmenting agent.

Glycolic acid: It is extracted from sugar cane. It is the most comedogenic alpha hydroxy acid and least compatible with dark skin. Not recommended for dark skin or with high phototypes. It is recommended to combine it with an antibacterial acid (alpha or beta hydroxy acid, such as salicylic or mandelic).

Lactic Acid: It comes from sour milk and other dairy derivatives. It is depigmenting especially at the level of chemical peels.

Malic Acid: Coming from apples, it is a light depigmenting agent that requires to be accompanied by another AHA and Magnesium to enhance its action.

According to this pharmacy, it is always recommended that the skin be protected with sunscreen throughout the year, but especially while undergoing a depigmentation treatment. In this case, it is necessary to use a sunscreen with a high protection index (SPF 50+), since in these treatments the skin is more sensitive to solar radiation.

THE LATEST RESEARCH IN VEGETABLE DEPIGMENTANT MOLECULES

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4623628/

“As tyrosinase inhibition is still the most sought-after mechanism of skin lightening, herbs having such property will show promise as depigmenting agents. Hence, they can be potentially employed as effective skin-whitening agents as well as for treating hyper pigmentation disorders.

The primary determinant of variability in human skin color is the density, amount as well as the distribution of Melanin pigment secreted by melanocyte cells in basal layer of the epidermis by a process known as Melanogenesis.

According to Ayurveda, skin whitening plants are the kind of herbs that interfere in the melanogenesis pathway through tyrosinase inhibition as per biomedicine. This shows their potential to act as good skin whitening agents.

Skin-lightening agents interfere in the melanogenesis pathway, melanin transfer or desquamation for lowering pigmentation on the surface of the skin, which generally acts by any of the ways such as Tyrosinase inhibition.

Apart from Tyrosinase inhibitors, Anti-oxidants and Vitamins such as A, B, C, E either directly or indirectly serve as skin lightening ingredients.

Some of the best known tyrosinase inhibitors are hydroquinone and kojic acid which interact with copper at the active site of the enzyme tyrosinase, thus decreasing its activity”.

 

 We, from our “slow” framework of natural cosmetics, will always try to use the vegetable substitutes of molecules with depigmenting active ingredients when making our homemade cosmetic products.

 

FOR VARIOUS REASONS:

–Health reasons, if you have read the side effects derived from hydroquinone treatments are quite aggressive. Apart from requiring creams with high levels of photoprotection that, today, are based on endocrine disrupting chemicals. In other words, the use of these aggressive synthetic molecules such as hydroquinone, demands that to avoid greater damage we use other aggressive solar photoprotection formulas on a daily basis.

This is precisely the same situation that occurs with the aggressive drugs of conventional medicine, which require us to use other drugs to alleviate the damage and side effects of the former.

–Reasons of environmental sustainability, since throughout our numerous posts and articles we have tried to show that drugs and products that cause environmental damage (such as sunscreen creams that damage marine corals or other chemical substances and synthetic fragrances that also cause damage for aquatic life and become pollutants difficult to break down) are the same ones that also cause damage to the body and numerous side effects.

–And, of course, reasons of efficacy because if you have read carefully, hydroquinone not only needs long and prolonged treatments to produce an effect, but there are also darker-skinned people to whom hydroquinone ends up producing more spots on instead of clarifying the ones they already have.

 

REASONS THAT WE COULD SUMMARIZE LIKE THIS, in the words of Joel Yong, Ph.D. in biochemical engineering and researcher:

“Because we don’t want to be suckered into paying for the costs of band-aid treatments that don’t deal with the root cause of what we’re facing. After all, the health sciences are heavily manipulated by human greed these days. Being careful of what we eat and what we put on our skin is highly necessary”.

So, for example, why do we need to use retinoic acid (or retinoids) with all its adverse effects of inflammation, erythema, itching and skin peeling if we can use a bakuchiol serum? or; better yet, daily use bakuchi oil (from which the active principle of bakuchiol is extracted) and which was traditionally used in India to treat the most serious skin diseases, such as leprosy.

In a 2014 study where the structure of both assets is compared, it is concluded that with different structures the same functionality is achieved.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12117

Subsequently, in a 2018 study conducted by the Department of Dermatology at the University of California, it was concluded that both bakuchiol and retinol significantly decreased wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, without many differences between them.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/bjd.16918

The only difference found was the presence of more flaking or itching on the faces of people who used retinol.

And, why use malic acid as a depigmenting agent if we can use a cotton ball smeared with apple cider vinegar several times a day on our spots? As you know, apple cider vinegar contains malic acid in quantity, in addition to other alpha hydroxy acids.

Or better yet, a cotton ball smeared in lemon juice, which contains ascorbic acid (another AHA) …

Or, why resort to complicated and aggressive facials with glycolic acid (another alpha hydroxy acid, AHA, which is extracted from sugar cane) if we can very easily exfoliate our skin with cane sugar and oil?

In a previous post, we even described how to prepare a facial serum with ascorbic acid, that is, with a vitamin C capsule, and in a tremendously simple way.

 

 

And not only that, conventional cosmetics makes little or no distinction between depigmenting substances and anti-aging antioxidant substances (anti-aging), which is rather the effect produced by antioxidant molecules. Probably for marketing reasons, since antioxidants seem to be more fashionable.

Logically, along with the skin rejuvenation effects, there are also effects of regeneration of the epidermis and uniformity of the tone. But, in the case of antioxidant substances, we would say that these are effects associated with the general skin rejuvenation effect, which is what makes these antioxidant substances so fashionable: vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin B3 or niacinamide, vegetable antioxidants such as blueberry extracts or resveratrol …

And it is that substances such as ascorbic acid and vitamin E, antioxidants par excellence, manage to increase the photoprotection and barrier function of the skin itself …

https://scielo.isciii.es/pdf/ars/v59n2/2340-9894-ars-59-2-77.pdf

According to Celia Castaño Amores and Pablo José Hernández Benavides from the Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology of the University of Granada.

“The antioxidant cosmetic active ingredients reveal their effectiveness in the course of cellular senescence, thanks to their ability to neutralize the harmful products that are generated. The joint action of ascorbic acid and vitamin E stands out. Others, such as retinol derivatives, carotenoids, vitamin B3 and flavonoids have been shown to have a beneficial effect”. Concluding these researchers: In order to treat and prevent skin aging, the application of active antioxidants is essential”.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

Addor FAS. Antioxidants in dermatology. A Bras Dermatol. 2017; 92 (3): 356-362

Burke K. Mechanisms of aging and development: A new understanding of environmental damage to the skin and prevention with topical antioxidants, Mech Aging Dev. 2017

Poljšak B, Dahmane RG, Godić A. Intrinsic skin aging: the role of oxidative stress. Acta Dermatovenerol Alp Pannonica Adriat. 2012; 21: 33–36 to treat and prevent skin aging, the application of antioxidant active ingredients is essential.

 

However, depigmenting substances, in principle, are not anti-aging substances. Although, as we know, especially if they are of plant origin, they have many other associated properties, including rejuvenating properties, since plant molecules act synergistically, enhancing their effects between them.

Depigmenting substances of plant origin are molecules that inhibit the action of tyrosinase, such as the glabridin contained in licorice, and that have skin lightening properties that inhibit the production of the enzyme tyrosinase. As we know, this enzyme is the one that synthesizes the melanin that makes our skin darken after exposure to the sun. This substance is also known to prevent pigmentation that occurs due to UVB rays from the sun.

Or the arbutin derived from the leaves of bearberry or uva ursi, which is a natural depigmenting molecule that also acts by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin and which breaks down into hydroquinone when it comes into contact with our intestinal flora. However, it does not have the cytotoxic effects of synthetic hydroquinone, which makes it possible to use it regularly. It also has sebum-regulating, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.

The liquorice extract can be obtained very easily by preparing an infusion in oil (or oleate) or, also, a hydro glycerinated extract. And, likewise, it is possible to obtain the active principle of arbutin from the leaves of the bearberry (or uva ursi), to make our own facial creams and serums.

 

This is the reason why knowing how to prepare extracts in natural cosmetics is so interesting. We can prepare an extract from almost any plant with cosmetic properties, only in some cases we will use the flowers, in others the leaves, as in this case, and in others perhaps the roots or seeds.

 If we want an extract to integrate into the oily phase of our cream or cosmetic preparation, then we will prepare an oleate with the plant in question as we have done, then with the leaves of the bearberry.

If we want to integrate it into the aqueous phase, we can prepare a hydroalcoholic tincture or a glycerinated extract. This example that we have taken from the internet is interesting because it shows us a special combination of hydroalcoholic glycerinated extract for natural cosmetics that we can easily integrate into the aqueous phase of our creams and serums.

 

EXAMPLE OF HYDROALCOHOLIC GLYCERINATED EXTRACT OF GAYUBA (uva-ursi):

We will use the following ingredients:

Gayuba: 20gr

Mineral or distilled water:33gr

Alcohol of 70º:33gr

Vegetable glycerin:33gr

 

The ratio will then be 1: 5 in a hydroalcoholic glycerinated extract, that is, an extract composed of plant, in this case gayuba, and solvent formed by water, alcohol and vegetable glycerin.

Just pour the ingredients into a glass jar and leave them for about 10-15 days in a cool, dry place, sheltered from light. We will shake from time to time to check that the solvent covers the entire plant. Then we will filter and you are ready to add in our cosmetic formulas.

We will add it around 7% in a cream of depigmenting effect.

As we said, we can also prepare an infused oil very easily with the dried leaves of the gayuba and a quality vegetable oil, and include it in our preparations.

 

EXAMPLE OF DEPIGMENTING FACIAL LOTION BASED ON GAYUBA OLEATE and cold infused because the sucre ester emulsifier allows it.

Ingredients to prepare about 100 ml of lotion:

5 tablespoons (10 grams) of hydrosol

4 tablespoons bearberry oleate

3 tablespoons of sucre ester

And a few drops of preservative and, optionally, some AE with depigmenting properties.

As you know, we like minimalist recipes with quality natural ingredients and selected active ingredients. Not by adding more ingredients the recipe will work better if the ingredients are not well combined or are natural.

We have seen many recipes for lotions, even formulated with sucre ester, that make life very complicated by adding a co-emulsifier to the sucre ester, or xanthan gum to thicken the solution, etc. It is not necessary if we add enough sucre ester. With this we simplify the recipe without reducing quality and make it accessible to everyone who wants to make easy and effective homemade cosmetics.

PROCESS:

1.-We will pour the oil into a bowl and then we will add the sugar ester, stirring very well with the rod. (If you see that it does not finish curdling, simply heat it a little in a water bath and you will see that it thickens very quickly).

2.-Now we will pour the hydrolate (we have chosen rockrose hydrolate, which combines very well in this anti-aging cream) and we will mix it vigorously for 2 minutes until the mixture begins to thicken and whiten.

3.-Finally, we will add the preservative, if we wish, to preserve our cream from microorganisms and, optionally, vitamin E or some treatment AE. Now we can bottle our moisturizing lotion.

We have chosen benzoin tincture as a preservative because we want it to also serve as an active principle to help unify facial tone.

We are going to use the tincture of benzoin, which we have previously prepared following Virginia’s guidelines, from natural tricks, in our facial lotion. And we are going to add it to 2%, which will mean about 20 drops of tincture, since the lotion that we are going to make has a total of approximately 100 ml.

Here we leave you the link to Virginia’s entrance in “trucos naturales” website, where she explains the clarifying and preservative properties of the tincture of benzoin:

https://escuelaherbal.com/benjui-que-es-y-para-que-sirve/

Plus, thanks to the benzoin tincture, our cream now smells delicious!

 

 

In a future post we will prepare a serum with niacinamide which, as we explained before, is a vitamin with very interesting antioxidant, anti-aging and facial tone properties.

 

Dihydroquercetin is also a depigmenting substance discovered in recent times and which has great potential since, in addition to being depigmenting, it is a powerful antioxidant.

This plant substance is an exception with great potential in the world of antioxidant substances and active principles for natural cosmetics. Dihydroquercetin extract, also known as taxifolin, is extracted from Russian dahurian larch (Larix dahurica) and is being used in natural cosmetics with great success given its comprehensive facial rejuvenation properties.

The molecule inhibits melanin synthesis measured in vitro more effectively than arbutin and kojic acid and is also a powerful protector against skin photoaging given its high antioxidant capacity, which in tests shows superior efficacy to vitamin E and resveratrol.

We, at the level of molecules of plant origin with depigmenting as well as antioxidant capacity, want to highlight the powerful effects of turmeric, available to everyone, and whose bioactive component, curcumin, has been recently proven (Ayurvedic cosmetics know this for millennia) that has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that attenuate acne scars and dark spots.

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

A recent study found that turmeric essential oil can brighten the skin in three weeks. These brilliant benefits are likely the result of powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds that work together to heal and enhance skin’s natural health.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0944711316302549?via%3Dihub

We know that the sun’s rays are the skin’s worst enemy, causing burns, skin cancer, hyperpigmentation and wrinkles. However, it has been seen that the powerful antioxidant effects of turmeric can help delay damage, thus acting as a potent anti-aging molecule.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378874118305221?via%3Dihub

Anti-aging properties of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj: a scientific approach to its use in the Javanese tradition.

 

 

Our mood and health is reflected not only in our skin, but also in our attitude to life and to others. That is why, when we talk about beauty, we do not speak from a superficial or aesthetic point of view, but as an attitude of life.

The secret of lasting beauty is not outside of us, but emanates from the depths of our body and mind. For Ayurveda, beauty is the projection of how we are internally, both physically, mentally and emotionally. And it is not, of course, to consume lots of products that assure us that they will work miracles in our body and in our skin, when, the truth is that that “magical” ingredient does not exist bottled.

All Ayurvedic beauty products that are applied to the skin are totally natural. For the most part, they are made with ingredients that we can easily find in any kitchen, and those that are somewhat less common, are just as easy to find. If we are also able to introduce certain daily routines on a regular basis, these products not only provide cleaning, hydration and nutrition, but also calm and eliminate tensions.

The principles of cleansing, nourishing and moisturizing apply to facial care.

According to Melanie Sachs, author of “Ayurvedic Beauty Care“, a five-minute routine like this is enough:

1.- Wash your face well with warm water. “Dead skin cells will absorb water like small sponges and swell, making them easy to remove,” she says.

Normally, Ayurvedic cosmetics recommend using chickpea flour or oatmeal paste with water to wash the face. Undoubtedly, they will not be bad for us, but if as many Westerners you are used to the use of soap all of your life, make sure it is a neutral soap, glycerin soap, or cold saponified soap, like those of the Cattier house (which leave the skin as the bottom of a baby), or those that we teach you to make in this blog, to prevent your skin from drying out excessively since soaps are very alkalizing in general.

If, beforehand, you need to remove your make-up, use a soft and natural micellar water or, better yet, a vegetable oil, as Sara Montiel (famous Spanish actress) did, who removed her make-up with the old-fashioned olive oil.

 

2.- Place a little running water or rose water in an atomizer and spray your face a few times to moisten your skin.

3.- While your face is still wet, apply a thin layer of jojoba oil to seal the moisture. According to Sachs, jojoba oil is the closest to skin fat, so it is very unlikely to cause irritation.

It is often thought that oil does not hydrate enough and that is better to use creams (which are also very good if they are natural or made by yourself); but it is not exactly like that. The oil moisturizes, it does not hydrate, and that is why in the previous step a hydrosol is used before applying the oil, and then, we have the perfect mixture! …

These herbs and vegetable oils that are used in the elaboration of creams, masks and other Ayurvedic beauty rituals are perfect foods for the skin. But beauty for Ayurveda goes beyond the skin, has to do with harmony, the balance between body, mind and spirit and proposes daily routines to achieve it through cleaning and internal nutrition, the use of spices, foods and oils favorable for each type of skin, rest, detoxification, yoga and meditation.

It is important to remember that the skin is the largest organ in the body, consisting of seven cellular layers and, in addition, each of these seven layers is directly related to one of the seven  dhatus (body tissues). Together, they are the main way to detoxify the body topically. According to Ayurveda, the skin is an important channel of secretion (elimination of toxins) and absorption of nutrients, regulates body temperature and produces a lot of endocrine hormones. It is the first line of defense against external attacks and reflects everything that happens within us.

Everything we put on our skin goes straight into the bloodstream, distributing throughout our body. For this reason Ayurveda tells us “don’t put anything on your skin that you can’t put in your mouth”.

We can say, then, that the state of our skin speaks to us of our state of health and that of our emotions. Its care not only brings us beauty, but is fundamental in our health, in the same way that we must take care of ourselves inside, both physically and mentally, to be able to radiate all our inner well-being. In short, we must take care of ourselves inside and out because they are parts of a whole.

The secret of absolute beauty is to live in harmony with our natural design and our base constitution, be it a Vata, Pitta, or  Kapha constitution:

Malnourished and dry skins (skins with predominance of Vata) need more earth, water and fire (more influence of  Kapha and Pitta).

Sensitive skins with a tendency to redness and dermatitis (skin with a predominance of Pitta) need more space, air and ground (more influence of Vata and Kapha).

Oily skins (skins with predominance of Kapha) need more fire, air and space (more influence of  Vata  and  Pitta).

NOURISH AND MOISTURIZE THE SKIN ACCORDING TO OUR CONSTITUTION

Prepare a body oil by mixing two tablespoons of almond oil with 10 drops of an essential oil indicated to your skin type:

To nourish and moisturize dry skin “vata”, we will use sweet orange or geranium.

To nourish and moisturize sensitive skin “pitta”, we will use jasmine or sandal.

To nourish and moisturize oily skin “kapha”, we will use lavender or bergamot.

Beauty is the perfect balance of the five elements that make up each person.

The way to achieve this balance is to find out what our base constitution is and follow some habits of life that allow us to stay in balance. We achieve this through the power of the flavors: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and astringent, since each of them also arises from the combination of the five elements and that will make our own elements hydrate, nourish, cleanse or simply rebalance. We will use one or the other, depending on what we need, both externally and internally.

Experts in Ayurvedic beauty agree: to cultivate radiant skin and a sense of inner balance you have to design a daily routine  with some activities that promote health.

DIET: In general, Ayurveda recommends a healthy and comprehensive diet (mainly vegetarian) for all constitutions. Fatty, fried, refined and processed foods, salt, sugar, seafood and red meats can cause skin problems, so it’s best to avoid them.

EXERCISE AND SLEEP HYGIENE:  Ayurvedic experts suggest exercising at least five times a week until you perspire along the spine and under your arms. Exercise promotes perspiration (which releases toxins from the body), increases circulation and calms the mind.

And going with a regular schedule of restful sleep like going to bed at the same time every night and getting up at the same time every day because, as Dr. Mehmet Oz explains in his book: “You: Being Beautiful“: “Sleep and exercise stimulate growth hormone, which promotes increased production of collagen and elastin to keep skin tight.”

PRACTICE YOGA TO HAVE RADIANT SKIN:  Incorporate a balanced practice of yoga in your daily routine (if we have not yet done it) improves lymphatic and blood circulation, tones the muscles and helps us connect with our breathing, three actions that improve our beauty to subtle, but important levels.

The recommendations, according to dr. Deepak Chopra’s Ayurvedic Center, also include drinking plenty of water and making our own cosmetics to moisturize the skin:

“-Know your skin type.

-Watch what you eat. If your body metabolizes food correctly you will increase your energy, avoid illness, have more mental clarity and your skin will look healthier.

-Enjoy a restful sleep. Light dinner, meditate before bed and lie down earlier to get up with renewed energy and glowing skin.

-Meditate to combat stress. Meditation is one of the best practices to reduce the anxiety and tension of the day, you will notice how you recover the shine in the look and in the face. Take a few minutes a day to breathe consciously and deeply. In addition to calming the nervous system you will improve the oxygenation of the skin and help it to purify.

-Drink plenty of water and moisturize your skin. We already know, but sometimes we forget that our body is composed of 60-70% water, so you have to drink abundantly to help the normal functions of the body (such as the elimination of toxins) and to return its good appearance.

-Make your own cosmetics to moisturize your skin. Choose a vegetable oil adapted to your skin (sesame for dry skin or almond for oily and normal skin) and massage yourself throughout the body without forgetting the head, neck, forehead, belly and soles of the feet. Your skin will regain elasticity, calm the nervous system and lubricate the joints.”

And it is important to lead a healthy lifestyle (which includes diet and activities), according to our constitution, but it is also important to pay attention to the quality of everything we consume, not only orally but also topically. In Ayurveda there is a saying that says, “Don’t put anything in your skin that you wouldn’t put in your mouth.”

Nothing better than cosmetics made by oneself to avoid introducing toxics into our body and to recover the natural shine of our skin. The raw materials with which we are going to make our recipes are important. A priori it seems very complicated, but, in reality, Ayurvedic beauty products are very basic and simple to make and, shortly after starting to use them, you start to notice how your skin is getting prettier.

Nowadays it is difficult to choose our cosmetic products since there are endless possibilities and, in addition, it is increasingly common to find labels that tell us that they are made with natural products of organic production. It is what in the article on “the movement of natural cosmetics ” we have called “greenwashing“, which is a strategy to sell more and better because consumers are increasingly more annoyed with the amount of chemicals that surround us and that are included in our shampoos, shower gels and other cosmetics and hygiene products.

The moment you ask yourself which cream to buy, stop and think if you understand and know the components that it carries, what they consist of, and if they are components that you could ingest without getting intoxicated.

Therefore, making your own cosmetics, in many cases with oils and ingredients from the pantry, will save your skin and the environment a lot of toxic chemicals.

We hope that these recommendations will inspire you and help you understand that the way to shine with all our splendor is much simpler than we think. 

 

We want in this article to highlight the importance of some beauty and skin care routines that, normally, it is not convenient for us to perform on a daily basis, but that have a decisive importance in the care and regeneration of our skin in the long term.

In our post “Feeding your skin inside and out“ we talked about beauty routines to keep our skin cared for and toned.

Thus, we expressed the importance of wearing face masks and exfoliants once a week to cleanse the skin of dead cells and regenerate it.

Facial exfoliation, and, if possible, body exfoliation with raw sugar and oil, is very interesting when it comes to regenerating our skin and standardizing the tone.

I also really like the body exfoliation with sea salt because it leaves my skin very hydrated and sea salt provides minerals and trace elements. However, I understand that exfoliating with brown sugar is especially interesting for the skin of our face since sugar contains a proportion of glycolic acid that chemically exfoliates the skin when it melts into the epidermis.

Just a tablespoon of a vegetable oil of your choice for a tablespoon of brown sugar. This combination can be applied directly by massaging well and then rinsing with water. After that, it would be great if you spread some serum or vegetable oil appropriate to your skin type.

If you prefer to prepare a container with exfoliant for a few occasions, an interesting ratio would be to use three parts of sugar for one of oil. Many people also like to add a small teaspoon of honey to enhance the regenerating effect of this combination.

 

And always, after a good body exfoliation, a massage with oils is very convenient.

Argan oil is anti-aging  and is perfect for all skin types, but we can vary the pleasures with hemp oil (avoids itching and redness) or apricot oil (tonifying), rosehip oil (regenerator), borage oils, macadamia or avocado(very moisturizing), or jojoba, and, perhaps, hazelnut oil if we have oily skin.

In any case, and as we always say, it is more important to massage yourself with a culinary olive oil if you have nothing else, than to use a synthetic body moisturizer.

 

According to the Charaka Samhita, massage with oils appeases the doshas, improves the complexion and shine of the skin, tones the muscles and acts as a natural moisturizer. For these reasons, he explains, Ayurvedic body massage is “one of the most effective means of slowing down the aging process of the skin…. It purifies, nourishes and tones the body at a deep cellular level.”

A few small gradual adjustments in our daily lives and spend more time taking care of us, can make us happier and healthier and, therefore, increase our beauty improving the way we see ourselves.