Category: ECOLOGY ISSUES & NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Current literature on “Slow Cosmetics” and new cosmetic and hygiene trends aim to preserve the proper functioning of our skin’s natural barrier by avoiding the use of harsh soaps and cosmetics. https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/5/1249/htm

In our homemade cosmetic preparations, the ingredient that can be the most aggressive and that we need to watch out for the most are preservatives.

I find it rather sad to observe that when the best cosmetic laboratories of today (Welleda, Colgate Palmolive (Sanex line) strive to improve the composition of their soaps and cosmetic products to make them less aggressive and respectful of the natural bacterial flora of our skin, bloggers and authors of homemade natural cosmetics continue to design recipes for creams and other homemade cosmetic products to which they happily add a gram of synthetic preservatives such as Cosgard, Geogard, Rokonsal…

And some of you will tell me that you make these recipes and that you don’t notice anything aggressive. My question is: do you notice that your skin feels more stiff after a few days of use, have you developed skin redness, is your skin more sensitive to the sun and the appearance of sunspots? All these phenomena are side effects caused by the use of aggressive preservatives or excessive amounts of preservatives in your creams and products for daily use, as synthetic preservatives deteriorate the natural protective layer of our skin and alter its functioning. It is for this reason that today’s soaps strive to use less aggressive detergents with the addition of probiotic ingredients and natural skin barrier protectors. And today’s good creams, which are tolerated by all skin types, such as Welleda’s, do not even contain synthetic preservatives, just a few derivatives of natural essential oils.

Weleda is a Swiss-German company founded in 1921. With 90 years of experience, the company is dedicated to the production of anthroposophically oriented master preparations and natural cosmetics. Compare, for example, the composition of Welleda’s Skin Food cream with some of the conventional creams you will find on the market.

WELLEDA SKIN FOOD CREAM INGREDIENTS

INCI: Water (Aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lanolin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (emulsifier of vegetable origin), Glycerin, Limonene* , Viola Tricolor Extract, Hydrolyzed Beeswax,  Sorbitan Olivate (lipids derived from olive oil), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract , Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Arginine, Zinc Sulfate, Fragrance (Parfum*) Linalool* Geraniol * Citral* Coumarin* *From natural essential oils.

THE WELLEDA PHILOSOPHY IS ALSO THE PHILOSOPHY OF THIS BLOG

We wanted to include here some lines about the philosophy of this brand because we consider that this same philosophy is totally applicable to the natural homemade cosmetics that we emphasize from this our blog.

“Parabens, esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, are one of the most common preservatives in conventional cosmetics due to their low price. They appear on INCI labelling under names such as ethylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben.

Although they are of natural origin, they are produced synthetically and are mainly used to delay the expiry of natural elements. In recent years there has been an increase in cases of skin allergies, rosacea, among others, due to the use of parabens in food and cosmetics (…) Other commonly used synthetic preservatives are benzoic acid, which appears as benzoic acid, or benzyl alcohol, which appears as benzyl alcohol”. Source: welleda

“Preserving a cosmetic naturally is a very complicated task, almost an art, which requires a great deal of experience and knowledge of the principles of natural cosmetics. The process begins with the raw materials, which are subjected to rigorous quality controls.

It is necessary to have a thorough knowledge of natural raw materials, their properties, their character and how to combine them to achieve a natural, stable, safe, effective and long-lasting formula without resorting to synthetic additives.

It also takes advantage of elements such as the type of packaging, natural alcohol or essential oils to contribute to the preservation of the product. (…) Source: Welleda

The most commonly used alcohol, which comes from a long tradition in homeopathy and anthroposophic medicine, is ethanol, which is a completely natural alcohol obtained by fermenting sugars from grains of different plants. It is included in some formulas in very low concentrations, makes the texture lighter and, being volatile, does not penetrate the skin.

Essential oils, in addition to serving as a scent and having multiple physical and emotional benefits, such as stimulating microcirculation, have a fungicidal and bactericidal effect. They are included in very low concentrations between 0.5 and 2%.

It is possible to enjoy effective, safe and 100% natural cosmetics without putting our health at risk by introducing unnecessary chemicals“. Source: Welleda

So, with these ideas in mind, we have intended to write this article on optimising our cosmetic formulations to make them smart like the cosmetics designed by Welleda and thus avoid the use of unnecessary preservatives and chemical additives. That is why we thought we would dedicate this article to “smart cosmetic ingredients” in our homemade preparations.

The best natural preservative that can be used in natural homemade cosmetics is, of course, not to use any preservatives at all.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5583239/

To achieve this, as we always say, there are several strategies:

1.-Prepare a very small amount of product that we are going to consume in a few days and, in this case, we will not need to add anything to our homemade formulation.

2.-Keep our homemade product cool and protected from sunlight and temperature changes, e.g. in the fridge, and package it in dark glass containers.

3.-Design a formulation that will keep well for a few weeks without the need to add any preservatives. As we all know, if our formulation does not contain water, this is very easy to achieve, but the problem arises when we want to formulate a cream or body lotion with an aqueous phase, which are undoubtedly more moisturising.

It is therefore necessary to design our formulation well if we want to do without preservatives.

To achieve this, it is possible, for example, to use in our products oils that have been altered to lengthen their rancidity, such as fractionated coconut oil, derived from natural coconut oil, or squalene, derived from the fatty acids in olive oil.

Better still, it is possible to use partially ozonised oils which retain all the properties of the vegetable oil but do not become rancid or contaminated, thus preserving our formulation.

Oils macerated in balsamic resins also have a longer shelf life.

And, of course, since the problem of contamination of our creams comes from bacteria and moulds in the water in products containing an aqueous phase, we can treat the water we are going to use.

We can start, for example, by using hydrolats to which we can add a few drops of the same essential oil to enhance its preservative capacity or even alcohol (preferably ethanol, or even vodka, which has a high natural alcohol content and is also used to make homemade tinctures) as in Welleda’s cream, which is not absorbed into the skin but prevents our cream from deteriorating.

Of course, if we do not have hydrolats, we will have to use distilled water. And why not? Treated water, for example with ozone, as we do with oils. Instead of using ozonated oils, we can use ozonated water in our preparations to avoid fungi and bacteria and, above all, to avoid the need to use synthetic preservatives.

And, in any case, when designing our products, we can consider the idea of making a solid cosmetic since solid cosmetics, by definition, contain little or no water. We will talk about solid cosmetics in a later post.

OZONATED WATER AND HEALTH

Numerous studies have shown that drinking ozonated water provides health benefits and has positive effects on the circulatory system, the nervous system, the skin, the …

Washing fruit, vegetables, fish and other perishable foods with ozonised water guarantees their total disinfection. The same disinfecting and sterilising effect of ozone can be applied to containers, bottles, teats, bottles, contact lenses… Simply immerse them in ozone purified water for 5 minutes.

Ozone-treated water also has a beneficial effect on the gastric mucosa, which is favourable as an adjuvant factor in the treatment of gastritis, gastroduodenal ulcers and some parasitosis.

In general, ozone therapy considers the use of ozone water to be very beneficial for: the circulatory system, the nervous system (depression, stress, insomnia, exhaustion), obesity and cellulite, allergies, eczema and other skin conditions, anaemia, liver problems, rheumatism, arthritis and gout.

Medical ozone therapy eliminates the free radicals that cause premature ageing. Dr. Pérez de León, a renowned doctor from the Biological Institute of Health, includes ozone therapy among his therapeutic methods, stating that it increases immunity by 25-30% and that “it is beneficial for any illness”. Proof of this is that it is currently being used as part of the treatment for AIDS patients.

You can see that your ozonising machine for oils and water can even help you to increase your defences and avoid contagion by coronavirus. Who would have thought it?

On the other hand, if you use ozonised water in the preparation of soaps and household detergents, you will achieve better whitening results than with bleach, as ozone enhances the action of detergents by neutralising the action of other chemical pollutants such as bleach and chlorine, thus preserving the environment.

The cosmetics and hygiene industry has accustomed us to buying synthetic preservatives and synthetic sanitisers based on chlorine, which nowadays, with the technology available to us, are not even necessary and, moreover, pollute. But they do keep the wheel of the capitalist-consumerist system running.

RECIPES THAT DO NOT NEED PRESERVATIVES TO BE PRESERVED

Here are some examples of homemade formulations that can last for several months without the use of preservatives.

BB-CREAM Facial

Along the lines of what we were talking about how to formulate smart homemade cosmetics without using preservatives or using minimal preservatives.

For example, it is possible to formulate a BB-Cream Facial without using an aqueous phase.

Therefore, it is not necessary to add preservatives. We have only taken the precaution of using fractionated coconut oil, which is more stable than natural oil, and will last about 6 months in perfect condition. In addition, this BB-cream includes a high sun protection factor due to the 20 grams of zinc oxide with which we have prepared the line. This makes it an ideal day cream.

Ingredients for 100 g of product:

0.8 g pink ochre pigment (or a mixture of red and yellow iron oxide)

20 g of zinc oxide previously micronised in the ceramic mortar to avoid lumps

63 g fractionated coconut oil

8 g of silica microspheres

8 g beeswax

PROCEDURE:

Put the red iron oxide and the yellow iron oxide in a heat-resistant container. Then add the zinc oxide.

Add the fractionated coconut oil to the mixture, stir and blend. Add the silica microspheres, stir and finally add the beeswax.

Put the mixture in a bain-marie to melt the wax, stir well and pack.

In this first cosmetic formulation we have not used an aqueous phase, which makes it much easier to do without preservatives, but in this second case, we present a body lotion formulation that does contain a lot of water.

LIPID BARRIER PROTECTIVE BODY MILK FORMULATION

This body milk keeps for weeks without adding any preservatives thanks to the combination of lanolin and beeswax. You will certainly finish it before it deteriorates. But if you expect to use it for months, it is best to add a few drops of GSE to your distilled water or use ozonated water instead. Of course, it is also possible to use a mildly ozonated almond oil.

Ingredients for about 250 ml of body milk:

10 grs lanolin

12 grs beeswax

10 grams of emulsifying wax #3 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)

120 g distilled/ozonised water with a few drops of GSE

80 grams of almond oil

PROCEDURE:

Heat the beeswax in a bain-marie until it melts and add the lanolin.

Separately, heat the emulsifying wax No. 3 in a bain-marie in another container and when it melts, add the almond oil and the ozonised water until it reaches a temperature of 70 degrees.

Now add the oil + ozonised water to the lanolin and beeswax mixture while whisking until the mixture is integrated and the emulsion is stabilised. It should be a light emulsion like a fine custard.

If it is too light after whipping, don’t worry, because when it cools down it will thicken much more. If you add more wax, it will be too thick and you will not be able to use it smoothly afterwards.

This is a very interesting body milk because the combination of lanolin and beeswax generates a kind of film on the skin that reinforces its lipidic barrier, thus protecting our skin from dehydration. You will notice it immediately if you decide to make it.

HOMEMADE SOYBEAN LECITHIN EMULSIFIER with base of ozonised oil

It is advisable to first pulverise the soya lecithin you have purchased with a ceramic pestle and mortar, which usually comes in granulated form.

I say this because crushing the granules well helps a lot later with the process of incorporating the soya into the sunflower oil.

Ingredients:

40% cold-pressed sunflower oil (sorry, but supermarket oil is not suitable) or sweet almond oil, in our case, ozonised sunflower oil.

60% non-GMO soy lecithin, usually granulated.

PROCEDURE:

The pulverised soya lecithin is added to a heat-resistant glass container, which is to be placed in a bain-marie.

Then add the sunflower oil that has already been weighed and place in a bain-marie for about 15 minutes.

After this time, the granules may not have dissolved completely. Some people blend them in a blender, but if you find this process too messy and messy, we simply keep stirring for a few more minutes until they are completely dissolved.

Finally, pour the mixture into a glass jar with a lid and leave it to stand for 3 hours. After this time, our lecithin will be ready.

This is an emulsifier that can be used for cold or hot emulsions. However, it is recommended to use another agent that can give consistency to the emulsion (co-emulsifier), e.g. beeswax, which, although it is not an emulsifier itself, helps to make the emulsion more stable. It is also possible to use cetyl alcohol or a thickening gum such as xanthan in the aqueous phase.

The advantage of this soy lecithin emulsifier is that, in addition to being an emulsion coadjuvant, it provides a soft touch and a higher level of hydration and anti-wrinkle protection to our creams due to the phytoestrogens contained in soy lecithin. And, the biggest advantage of preparing it with ozonised oil is, without a doubt, that it does not go rancid as is usually the case with homemade soya lecithin made with conventional sunflower oil.

ANTI-MOSQUITO SPRAY

Ingredients:

50 ml of seawater reconstituted from Dead Sea salt, or Celtic salt, or any other salt with properties. As you know, salt is another great natural preservative. However, you can substitute this recipe with ozonated water, of course.

6 drops of Citronella Java EO

6 drops of EO of Eucalyptus citriodora

5 drops of Geranium of Egypt essential oil

5 drops of Immortelle de Corsica or Helichrysum or Immortelle de Corsica E.O.

1 g vegetable glycerine

INSTRUCTIONS

First, reconstitute the seawater by adding a teaspoon of salt to 50 ml of a mineral water that you have at home.

Now, we will calculate one gram of glycerine* which will serve as the basis for dissolving the essential oils and combining them.

So, to this gram of glycerine we will add the EOs and stir.

Finally, we add the glycerine mixture with the essential oils to the seawater and package it in a spray bottle, preferably in dark glass, to keep it in good condition for a longer period of time. Although, as you have probably gathered from our clever formulation, this combination of water with salt and essential oils needs virtually no additives to keep it stable indefinitely.

*If we did not use glycerine, we would have to use a natural solubiliser to emulsify the essential oils with the seawater to avoid having to shake our bottle every time we use it.

TIPS:

Avoid adding more EO than indicated because, although you may think that this will make your spray more effective against mosquitoes and other flying beasts, this is not entirely true and you may also cause a skin reactivity problem for children or sensitive people.

Although the ingredients used are all natural, as we always say, just because they are natural does not mean they have no effect. This spray contains essential oils, which are powerful therapeutic weapons that should be used with caution and respect.

In this case, we will avoid using higher doses than those recommended for the 50 ml of product and, at the same time, we will avoid direct contact of the EOs with the skin. This is why we have diluted them in the glycerine and water contained in our spray bottle.

THE NATURAL PRESERVATION ALTERNATIVES THAT WE KNOW OF

As we have been talking about, ozonated oils, ozonated waters and hydrolats, sea salt added to our waters, oleates based on balsamic resins, essential oils added to our compositions, tinctures such as benzoin tincture or propolis tincture; all these options constitute authentic natural conservation strategies for our homemade cosmetic products as long as we include them in our formulations.

In the event that it is essential to use some kind of preservative in our preparation, as is perhaps the case for the preservation of natural aloe vera gel or some creams and lotions with aqueous phase, we can look to the natural cosmetics industry and the organic food industry to find preservatives that are less aggressive to our skin but still do their job effectively.

https://fbcindustries.com/what-are-the-most-common-food-additives-and-preservatives/

Natural preservatives such as potassium sorbate are, in principle, not harmful to the body. Potassium sorbate (E202) consists of the potassium salt of sorbic acid and is used as a preservative in both the cosmetics and food industries. It is considered safe because it is converted to water and CO2 in the human body. It protects cosmetic products against yeasts and moulds and is very skin friendly. The dosage of this preservative would be between 1.5% to 2%.

https://www.feelinggoods.nl/weet-jij-wat-je-smeert/

We prefer to use mild preservatives such as potassium sorbate combined with ethanol or preservatives of natural origin that also contain probiotics, such as Leucidal, as well as those used in naturopathy to fight infections, such as grapefruit seed extract and propolis tincture, which is also used to disinfect wounds and as an adjuvant in infectious processes.

Using potassium sorbate as a preservative in dermo-cosmetics is certainly an option, although as is often the case with milder, biodegradable options, it is not a very effective option.

“Potassium sorbate inhibits the growth of yeasts and moulds, but has only moderate efficacy against bacteria. It is therefore useful to use potassium sorbate in combination with natural alcohol (ethanol) for a wide range of applications. Potassium sorbate is one of the few preservatives accepted by the BDIH. The optimum pH value of the final product should not exceed 5 for proper functioning. Up to a pH value of 7, the operation is also safe. Lactic acid can be used to achieve the correct pH level. Potassium sorbate is also soluble in water”.

NEW GENERATION OF MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY PRESERVATIVES

The following study analyses the preservatives used in conventional dermo-cosmetics and also in herbal dermo-cosmetics. Unfortunately, as far as preservatives are concerned, there is not much difference.

https://www.actasdermo.org/es-conservantes-productos-higiene-cosmeticos-medicamentos-articulo-S0001731017302053

“Approximately 6% of the population is sensitised to some cosmetic ingredient, especially preservatives and fragrances. When a risk of sensitisation to a preservative is described, expert committees (Scientific Committee on Consumer Products and Cosmetic Ingredient Review, in Europe and North America respectively) issue opinions that lead to legislative changes determining restrictions on maximum permitted concentrations or even a ban. As a result, the cosmetic industry promotes preservative alternatives (new molecules or combinations). Occasionally, newer preservatives end up triggering new cases of sensitisation, as serious or more serious than those secondary to the preservative they replaced. Thus, over the years, there have been several “epidemics” of sensitisation to preservatives: formaldehyde (1950s and 1960s), methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI) (1970s-80s), or methyldibromoglutaronitrile (1990s). We are currently immersed in an “epidemic” of allergy to MI since its use in cosmetics was approved in 2005, at a concentration <100ppm, in the belief that it was less sensitising than MCI, and despite the fact that the first cases of dermatitis to methylisothiazolinone had already been reported at the time“.

However, we are happy to see that new generation preservatives are starting to be seen in online home cosmetics shops whose naturally sourced compositions are not only more environmentally friendly but also, in some cases, 100% biodegradable.

This is the case with the above-mentioned Leucidal, whose INCI is Lactobacillus Ferment. It is a probiotic-based preservative created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium. Lactobacillus is one of the species of microorganisms used to produce fermented products, such as kimchi and sauerkraut, a staple of the Korean diet, from cabbage. Like many members of the lactic acid bacteria family, Lactobacillus is able to restrict the growth of other microorganisms by acidifying its environment. However, Lactobacillus also produces novel antimicrobial peptides, known as bacteriocins, which are able to provide broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection capable of restricting the growth of other microorganisms by acidifying their environment.

It is best incorporated into our formulations during the cooling phase of the process at temperatures below 70°C. Suggested use levels are typically between 2-4%.

Dermorganics 1388 (INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate) is a natural preservative approved by ECOCERT that not only increases the shelf life of our cosmetics, but also provides important skin care properties as it helps to moisturise and reduce inflammation, making it suitable even for irritated skin or skin with acne. It has a mild odour that does not interfere with formulations, just like Leucidal.  In addition, all components are also of vegetable origin (star anise, sugar cane, non-GMO soy/corn) and glycerine.

Its most effective application would be at a dosage of 2-4 % of the final product and its shelf life is up to three months, more or less the same as Leucidal. And, of course, it meets the ECOCERT criteria (100 % natural and 46 % organic/ecological origin). Dermorganics is available in the cremascaseras.es online shop.

However, be wary of preservatives based on benzyl alcohol and advertised as environmentally friendly when it has been known for years that benzyl alcohol is an allergenic substance that can cause skin irritation as stated in the EU classification of allergenic substances.

Source: https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/cosmetics/cosmetic-products-specific-topics/fragrance-allergens-labelling_en

The French Aroma-Zone shop of course has Leucidal and GSE, but also offers an environmentally friendly preservative alternative known as Plantaserv Q, which they call Naticide. It is a broad-spectrum antibacterial and antifungal preservative that ensures the preservation of cosmetic preparations containing an aqueous phase. This colourless-yellow liquid with a sweet vanilla smell is of natural origin and its composition includes aromatic compounds with antibacterial and antifungal properties. That is why its INCI is as simple as this: Fragrance.

It is mainly used in milks and lotions and in shampoos and shower gels at a maximum dosage of 1%. It is difficult to dissolve in water, but it can be added when the emulsion is still warm (it can handle the temperature well) so that it integrates better and dissolves in the oils.

And of course, of course, we cannot forget the famous grapefruit seed extract that has caused so much controversy (include link to grapefruit seed extract article) and which is known as ESP in Spanish (GSE in English). If possible, try to get it like this one (for example, in the Aroma-Zone shop) which is specially designed for use as a dermo-cosmetic preservative and contains an addition of organic acids (lactic, citric and ascorbic acid) that make it especially suitable for use in home cosmetics.

This one by Aroma-Zone in particular is of natural origin, contains no benzethonium chloride, no parabens, no triclosan, and is completely biodegradable. However, it cannot be used internally as an antibiotic, although it can prolong the life of our “homemade” water-based cosmetics for approximately 1 month.

We also found this other GSE product especially for home cosmetics in a Dutch shop. In this case, it contains 60% GSE and 40% vegetable glycerine.

Those normally found on the market contain a maximum of 33% GSE and, of course, no added glycerin if they are not designed for cosmetic use. INCI Nomenclature: Grapefruit (Citrus Grandis) Extract (and) Glycerin.

Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE) for internal use is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent based on citrus seeds and pulp. It is blended with vegetable glycerin to be non-irritating to skin and mucous membranes when used in cosmetic formulations. The antibacterial and antifungal properties of grapefruit seed extract make it an ideal cosmetic preservative in products such as shampoos, creams, lotions, scrubs and soaps.

This therapeutic agent, in its internal use version, is used worldwide for its natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. In laboratory studies, this particular extract has shown activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, including E. coli, Staph. Aureus, as well as fungi such as Pseudomonas Aeruginosa, Aspergillus Flavus and Aspergillus Niger. It is very safe to use and is completely biodegradable. It has a 30-year track record of safety and efficacy as a human therapeutic agent. GSE for internal use is even safe enough to use as a drinking water disinfectant when necessary.

Preservatives in food are certainly a problem, but the same situation applies to our skin.

Dr Alejandro Junger’s famous therapeutic method, which he described in detail in his book “CLEAN” and in which he proclaimed the need to abandon processed food with all its preservatives and added chemical additives in order to restore the functioning of the intestinal microbiota, could be said to have a parallel in the current literature on “Slow Cosmetics” and the new cosmetic and hygiene trends that aim to preserve the proper functioning of our skin’s natural barrier.

https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/5/1249/htm

With this idea in mind of optimising our cosmetic preparations by avoiding unnecessary preservatives and chemical additives, we thought we would dedicate this article to ozonated oils as a “smart cosmetic ingredient” in our homemade preparations.

OZONATED OILS IN OUR HOMEMADE PREPARATIONS

Ozonated oils, in addition to all the properties that a natural vegetable oil already contains, are excellent for healing and regenerating the skin. We can therefore use them directly in cosmetic preparations, just as we would use non-ozonated vegetable oils. Moreover, they retain their properties much better thanks to ozone.

WHAT IS OZONE?

Ozone is a highly oxidising, bluish-coloured gas, which forms in the ozonosphere and protects the Earth from the action of the Sun’s ultraviolet rays; it is an allotropic state of oxygen produced by electricity. It is therefore a gas that is naturally present in our atmosphere. Each ozone molecule contains three oxygen atoms, and its chemical formula is O3. The oxygen molecules (O2) contained in the air we breathe consist of only two oxygen atoms.

Ozonated oils can be applied directly to the skin. If you have read carefully what ozone is, you will be able to directly deduce some of the fundamental properties of ozonated oils in their topical use.

-On the skin of our face, they improve the appearance of the complexion because, paradoxically, they prevent oxidation and free radicals, protecting it from the sun’s harmful rays and thus preventing the appearance of pigmentation spots.

-It is possible to apply them to the body to deeply moisturise it, but this can be a bit expensive if you have to buy them, it is better, as I explain below, to prepare your own oils with an ozoniser or to dilute them in a moisturising body milk recipe like the ones we provide on our website.

-As ozonated oils are moisturising by nature, but also contain the antifungal and antibacterial properties of ozone, you can also use them to moisturise your intimate body areas, thus avoiding itching and possible infections derived from vaginal dryness that all women sometimes suffer from at different stages of our lives.

-Applied to the toenails, they not only prevent redness and irritation, but also prevent and cure nail fungus. Your nails will be a little blue for a few days, of course, because ozone is a blue gas as we explained before, but they will be as healthy as apples.

 And if, in addition, you want to use ozonised oils in your natural cosmetics recipes, the advantages are even greater because by using these oils you will avoid the need to use preservatives in your homemade preparations. Ozone ensures that these oils are better preserved, preventing oxidation for much longer than non-ozonated vegetable oils.

“The ozonation of the olive oil resulted in changes in its chemical composition. Although a decrease in unsaturated acids was observed, several additional compounds detected in the ozonated olive oil positively affect physicochemical, sensory, and functional properties of cosmetic emulsions. Emulsions based on the ozonated olive oil retain their properties much longer compared to emulsions based on the refined olive oil. Ozonated olive oil treated with 0.10 mole O3/100 g oil allowed increasing the shelf life of the non-preserved formulation up to six months. A weak inhibitory effect against C. albicans and A. brasiliensis was also demonstrated for this emulsion in the challenge test. An interesting aroma and lack of cytotoxicity at concentrations 625µg mL-1 make the ozonated olive oil a promising raw material for the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries”.

Source:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/351748534_Olive_Oil_with_Ozone-Modified_Properties_and_Its_Application

PROPERTIES OF PARTIALLY OZONATED OILS

The ozone contained in the carrier oil enhances the properties of the oils to their maximum expression. In other words, if Hypericum oil is in itself a good anti-inflammatory, ozonated Hypericum oil is a much better anti-inflammatory.

Ozonated oils are generally used to provide oxygen to the skin. Ozonated olive oil, for example, can be useful for the following conditions: Scrapes, cuts, burns, psoriasis, eczema, cold sores, anal fistulas, seborrheic dermatitis, ringworm, athlete’s foot, toenail and foot fungus, poison oak or poison ivy, bee stings, insect bites, bruises and generally any part of the skin that needs healing.

New uses for ozonated oils are being discovered every day. For example, they are now also being introduced in alternative dentistry as they have proven to be useful in the healing of gum abscesses, periodontal problems, and gingivitis.

-Ozonated oils not only oxygenate the tissues, improving the skin’s blood microcirculation, but also deeply moisturise the skin, as they have a high absorption capacity, preventing trans epidermal water loss and skin flaking.

-On the other hand, they act as precursors of the metabolic mediator nitric oxide, prostaglandins and arachidonic acid, thereby contributing to the regulation of cell division and differentiation of the epidermis, i.e. they regenerate tissues.

-It is very important to bear in mind that in the summer they can be particularly useful in our homemade sun preparations as they help to prevent excess free radicals, avoiding damage to endothelial tissue. The hyper-oxygenation of the essential fatty acids in the carrier oil produced by ozone facilitates anti-radical activity in the process of oxidative stress in the cells and so it delays skin ageing.

Its broad-spectrum germicidal capacity, since this process of hyper-oxygenation creates ozonides and peroxides, is scientifically proven as you can read in the following reports:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7024311/

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/iwj.13760

In short: In all ozonated oils something very characteristic is produced; their healing and germicidal properties become excellent. Therefore ozonated oils are very good for wounds, irritations or skin scars.

WHAT WE ARE INTERESTED IN WITH REGARD TO NATURAL HOMEMADE COSMETICS

If we add enough ozonated oil to our cosmetic preparations, we manage to ozonate the entire oil phase. Thus, the use of preservatives, even in products containing an aqueous phase, becomes redundant.

And what do you think of the idea of preparing our macerates and oleates with one of these partially ozonated oils?

For example, with ozonated sunflower oil, which otherwise, without ozonation, tends to go rancid very quickly. However, ozonated sunflower oil will allow us to preserve our oleates and macerations, such as calendula oil, for a long period of time without worrying about oxidation and consequent rancidity.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/233283510_Germicidal_Properties_of_Ozonated_Sunflower_Oil

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25623845/

THE CHARACTERISTICS AND PROPERTIES OF OZONATED VEGETABLE OILS

(we have taken this section from the Jabonarium website), which is pioneer in Spain in the commercialization of ozonated oils for natural homemade cosmetics. Please note, I do not receive any kind of commission for advertising this, so I don’t care if you decide to buy ozonated oils on this website or not.

Just keep in mind that you should buy “partially ozonated natural oils” or oils suitable for internal consumption because, although you may think that oils suitable for topical use can be useful, fully ozonated oils, in addition to being thick, are too strong to be used in your homemade preparations and can even irritate the skin and cause flaking due to their strong antibacterial and antifungal activity.

Ozonated Olive Oil. It helps to reduce the effects of cellulite and is also a good anti-acne oil, as it regulates sebum secretion, preventing pimples from appearing.

Ozonated Hypericum Oil. It is highly recommended for mature and tired skin. This oil is a great healing agent, helping to heal wounds. It is also anti-inflammatory and soothing for burns.

Ozonated Rosehip Oil. It is highly recommended for dry skin, as it has a great nourishing power. It helps to improve dermatitis problems. This oil is a great stimulus for the natural production of collagen and elastin in our skin, and acts as a cellular renewer.

Ozonated Sunflower Oil. It is a very powerful natural regenerator, which also eliminates bacteria and fungi. It also helps to restore the pH of the skin and is effective against cellulite.

Ozonated Chamomile Oil. Chamomile oil has great antibacterial power. This oil is also anti-inflammatory. It is also effective against skin infections.

Ozonated Arnica Oil. Ozonated arnica oil has a great anti-inflammatory action. This oil is a great antioxidant and photoprotector. It is also very good for relieving insect bites or irritations.

Ozonated Calendula Oil. Ozonised calendula oil provides elasticity to the skin, especially for sensitive skin. Very suitable for chapped skin. This ozonised oil also has anti-acne properties.

Ozonated coconut oil. This oil, although not found in the Jabonarium shop, is interesting to include in this classification because of its outstanding qualities. In general, natural cold-pressed vegetable oils are always hypoallergenic, but this is a particularly outstanding quality of coconut oil that makes it especially suitable for the most delicate skins. Also because of its excellent emollient and moisturising properties, coconut oil is particularly suitable for those with sensitive skin.

Coconut oil is a safe way to combat dry, flaky skin and has been used for years for eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis and other skin problems. These properties are undoubtedly optimised by partially ozonating this oil. When coconut oil is ozonated (infused with active oxygen), its antioxidant capacity is boosted while it acquires a luxurious consistency that is easily absorbed into the skin.

THE ORIGIN OF THE FIRST OZONATED OILS

And here we must talk about the great sage Tesla, of whom so much has been said lately since all his discoveries have become better known.

Nikola Tesla (in 1900) patented his first ozone generator, which he immediately began to use by ozonating olive oil that he sold to doctors. Tesla created his ozonated oil by bubbling ozone through pure olive oil in the presence of a magnetic field for eight weeks. In 1904, ozonated olive oil, also known as Glycozone, began to appear in the medical literature: “The Medical Uses of Hydrozone and Glycozone”, 9th edition, by New York chemist Charles Marchland.

Ozone is a very reactive gas and difficult to stabilise for long periods of time in a usable form. It has long been known as a universal disinfectant agent that fights bacteria, viruses, and other germs. However, when ozone is bubbled through an ozone-resistant container (such as a glass container), the ozone gas is trapped and begins to react with the oil.

Ozonated oil is actually created by a redox reaction. The ozone literally burns the oil, and three primary organic peroxides are actually created throughout the process. In other words, the first peroxide created reacts a second time to produce a second peroxide, and finally once more to form C10H18O3. The final process is quite remarkable, as the whole substance will turn into a white foam. Once this white foam settles, there is no point in further ozonation, as the original oil is no longer present, and the compounds have been brought to a state that no longer reacts with ozone.

What is the shelf life of ozonated oils?

The oil is reported to be stable for up to 17 years. For long-term preservation it should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer. Ozonated olive oil has been tested after 10 years of refrigeration and has been found to be 98% more effective in its germicidal power.

HOME OZONATION

If you have your own ozone generator, which is nowadays available on amazon for less than 100 euros, the possibilities are vast.

From ozonating your oils, as commercial ozonated oils are quite expensive, to ozonating the water in your cosmetic preparations or even ozonating seawater for use in your homemade soaps, facial lotions, and topical sprays.

Ozonated oil has many benefits for daily use and for body and skin care (regeneration, healing). Its use is widespread because its capabilities are limitless: Bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, effective against parasites…

How is ozonated oil made?

The most commonly used oil is olive oil, which has many interesting properties, but it is possible to use any type of oil, such as sunflower or coconut oil. However, it seems necessary to use oils with a high concentration of oleic and linoleic fatty acids. The acidity of the oil should also be low.

What equipment is needed to make home-made ozonated oil?

You will need an ozone generator. There are many models available on the market. They range from a few tens of euros to several hundred or even thousands of euros if you need to produce large quantities. However, for home use, an ozone generator that generates 500 to 600 mg/h is sufficient. This is available on the market for a modest price.

However, the ozone generator must be equipped with a tube to introduce the ozone into the oil. It must also have a porous stone to fix the end of the tube. This stone will allow a better diffusion of the ozone into the oil and thus ensure a better mixing and integration of the gas into the liquid. The bubbles resulting from the ozone injection must be small. This is the main interest of this stone. If the bubbles formed are too large, the injection will not be perfect. Not to mention the risk of splashing, which is always unpleasant…

Of course, you need oil. The oil you choose must be of good quality and cold-pressed.

And finally, you need a container such as a glass jar or bottle for the ozone to bind to the oil. As a rule, it only takes one day (24 hours) to ozonate the oil. After one hour of ozonation, the ozone starts to integrate the oil.

And the interesting thing about being able to use our own generator is that we can choose the power we want for our homemade oil. As we mentioned, ozonated oil is a powerful bactericide, if instead of ozonating it for 24 hours you do it for less time you have the possibility of deciding the power you want for your oil. Less time, less ozone, and a softer oil. Keep in mind that after the ozonation process, your oil will acquire a strong ozone smell, so you can certainly make it less potent by using less time. The best oils for cosmetic preparations are partially ozonated oils.

It is also possible to add essential oils to scent the result, but of course this will also increase its bactericidal and fungicidal potency. So, as we always say, moderation is a great virtue when you are trying to design a product that has properties for the skin without being aggressive.

Once the ozonation process is complete, the container in which the oil is stored should be sealed if you are not going to use it immediately. The shelf life varies from 1 to 10 years, depending on the quality of the ozonation. Logically, if you are going to use it to prepare your products, you can keep it, like the rest of your oils, in a cool place away from light and high temperatures.

ADVANTAGES OF OZONATING THE OIL YOURSELF

If you have an ozoniser, even a cheap one from amazon, it might be interesting to try ozonating the oil you want to use yourself, for example, to prepare homemade soya lecithin. In this way, you will extend the life of your homemade lecithin enormously since you will prevent the sunflower oil, which is the base of the lecithin, from going rancid.

The possibility of ozonating a homemade oil at our disposal not only reduces the cost of the procedure, but also, having our own machine, as mentioned above, allows us to control the degree of ozonisation of our final product.

If we are looking for a slightly purified oil, we will apply, for example, a few hours of ozonisation.

If, on the other hand, we are looking to extend the life of a final product such as homemade soy lecithin emulsifier, we may need to leave the sunflower oil in contact with ozone for a slightly longer period.

HOMEMADE PREPARATIONS BASED ON OZONATED OIL

In the section on the cosmetic properties of ozonated oils, we talked about the skin regenerative capacity of ozonated oils.

With this in mind, we have designed a recipe for a facial repair suncream that can be very interesting for everyone now that summer is over, and we need to recover from the ravages of high sun exposure on our skin.

Our regenerating cream is based on two key ingredients: ozonated olive oil* and gamma oryzanol*. Both components prevent sun damage and at the same time repair the skin.

*Ozonated oil: The interesting thing about ozonated oil with regard to sun protection is that, without forming a total protective screen as mineral sunscreens do (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), it allows the skin to tan without getting sunburnt. We might therefore think that its degree of protection (SPF) is lower than that of mineral filters, but this is not entirely true because ozonated oil prevents sunspots and corrects pigmentary alterations of the skin. In addition, a posteriori, after exposure to the sun without filters, it acts by regenerating the skin and healing possible sunburns. As you can see, ozonated oils are very interesting sunscreens.

*Gamma-oryzanol: Gamma oryzanol is derived from rice bran oil and is composed of sterols and ferulic acid. This compound demonstrates a high antioxidant and anti-ageing capacity. Its ferulic acid content makes it a powerful antioxidant that prevents oxidative stress on the skin. It reinforces the skin barrier and is suitable for use in products for dry and mature skin. It also has a high capacity to absorb UV radiation (UV-A and UV-B) and is ideal for combining with physical sunscreens (vegetable oils) in creams and milks. In this case, with our physical ozone-filter oil.

With these two ingredients, we aim, in a simple and smart way, to obtain a sun protection and repair product for our facial skin that does not need preservatives or any other type of synthetic additives.

Ingredients for about 50 grams of product:

30 grams of a hydrolat of your choice or distilled water

15 grams of partially ozonated olive oil

1 gram of gamma-oryzanol powder

6 grams of emulsifying wax number 2*.

*The emulsifying wax number 2 normally has this INCI: Cetearyl wheat straw glycosides, cetearyl alcohol. You can find it in different shops like Aroma-Zone or La Redoma Creativa.

PROCEDURE:

Previously, the powdered gamma-oryzanol should be crushed with a ceramic mortar to improve its dissolution in the oily phase and to avoid possible lumps, because as you have just read, this product does not dissolve in water.

Next, dissolve the emulsifying wax in a bain-marie together with the partially ozonated oil.

In a separate container, heat the aqueous phase with the hydrolat or distilled water. When the temperature of the hydrolat reaches about 70 degrees, add it to the oil phase and begin to whisk with a cosmetic mixer until the whole is well integrated. And we do not need to add anything else, apart from a few drops of essential oil if we prefer to scent our cream, as the ozone contained in the oil gives it a strong aroma that some people may find somewhat unpleasant. However, if the oil is only partially ozonated, the aroma is usually very mild and pleasant.

Personally, we have added a few drops of jasmine EO which, in addition to deliciously perfuming our sun cream, also gives the skin elasticity.

What do you think? Have you ever heard of the possibility of using ozonated oil to prepare your sunscreen creams? We are looking forward to hear from you.

In this article we want to explain two very important characteristics of vegetable oils that will help us decide if choosing one or the other when we want to develop a cosmetic formulation.

These characteristics tell us about the different degree of oxidation of oils and their degree of comedogeny, which is very important to know when formulating cosmetics for oily skin.

OXIDATION OF OILS

A vegetable oil can lose its properties if the fatty acids it contains are broken down. Some fatty acids are more fragile than others. Under certain conditions they degrade and the vegetable oil loses its properties.

Among the main sources of degradation are: oxidation and heat. However, the oxidative potential of a vegetable oil or butter depends on the nature and concentration of fatty acids in it. In general, the more double bonds the fatty acid has, the faster its oxidation rate will be.

That is, saturated fatty acids: Stearic acid (cocoa butter), palmitic (palm fat), myristic, lauric (coconut butter) … have fewer of these bonds, mono-unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid (shea butter) are at greater risk, and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic acid (safflower oil, evening primrose), are most likely to oxidize and degrade rapidly.

Here you can see in more detail the concentration of fatty acids of some oils:

Safflower oil: 68-85% linoleic, 8-30% oleic, 4-10% palmitic

Evening primrose oil: 73% linoleic, 9% γ-linoleic, 8% oleic, 6% palmitic

Grape seed oil: 71% linoleic, 16% oleic, 7% palmitic

Wheat germ oil: 58% linoleic, 17% palmitic, 12% oleic

Hemp oil: 52% linoleic, 10% linolenic, 10% oleic, 6% palmitic

Rosehip oil: 44% linoleic, 34% linolenic, 14% oleic

Borage oil: 39% linoleic, 20% γ-linoleic, 18% oleic, 10% palmitic

Sunflower oil: 70-88% oleic, 3-20% linoleic, 3-6% palmitic

Camellia oil: 79% oleic, 7% linoleic

Hazelnut oil: 79% oleic, 12% linoleic

Shea butter: 73% oleic, 14% linoleic, 9% stearic

Apricot seed oil: 69% oleic, 22% linoleic

Sweet almond oil: 67% oleic, 25% linoleic, 6% palmitic

Avocado oil: 63% oleic, 16% palmitic, 10% linoleic

Carrot seed oil: 68% oleic, 11% linoleic

Olive oil: 55% oleic, 20% palmitic, 18% linoleic

Macadamia nut oil: 54% oleic, 21% palmitoleic, 8% palmitic

Sesame oil: 46% linoleic, 39% oleic, 9% palmitic

Argan oil: 42-48% oleic, 30-38% linoleic

Jojoba oil: 5-15% oleic, 5% linoleic

Coconut oil: 4-10% oleic, 0.95-12% linoleic

PROPERTIES OF THE DIFFERENT FATTY ACIDS THAT MAKE UP THE OILS

Oleic acid: It is very moisturizing, well absorbed, regenerative and anti-inflammatory.

Linoleic acid: Improves the skin’s barrier function, softens itchy skin and dry skin, retains moisture, and is anti-inflammatory.

Linolenic acid: Helps reduce acne, retains moisture, strengthens the skin’s barrier function, and is anti-inflammatory.

Gamma linolenic acid: Improves the skin’s barrier function, softens itchy skin and dry skin, retains moisture, helps acne-prone skin, absorbs quickly, improves skin flexibility and is anti-inflammatory.

Palmitic acid: Forms an occlusive barrier on the skin and protects it.

Palmitoleic acid: Prevents burns, heals the skin with wounds, scratches and is antimicrobial

Stearic acid: Improves moisture retention, increases flexibility and repairs skin damage.

SENSITIVITY TO OXIDATION OF DIFFERENT OILS OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN

In practice, this oxidation phenomenon is easily detected because it is responsible for changes in the appearance of vegetable oil (rancid odor, color change).

Certain factors accelerate this oxidation: oxygen, light (UV), contact with pro-oxidant metals and, above all, heat, which will act as a catalyst for these oxidative reactions.

Other factors will curb this phenomenon, in particular the contribution or natural wealth of the oil in vitamin E.

To stop the oxidation phenomenon as much as possible, it is essential to store vegetable oils in good condition. It is therefore recommended that “very sensitive” oils be kept in a cool place, preferably in the refrigerator, in a tightly closed bottle, protected from air and light or add vitamin E when receiving them.

When incorporating these oils into an emulsion, it is required to incorporate vitamin E or organic rosemary CO2 extract into the vegetable oil before heating them to prevent the resulting product from oxidizing quickly.

According to estimates, the following vegetable oils can be considered very sensitive to oxidation:  Camelina, blackcurrant, knob, safflower, hemp, raspberry, evening primrose, rosehip, kukui.

We can consider as sensitive the oils of: Borage, cotton, nopal, gardenia of the Incas, wheat germ, Kalahari melon, nigella, grape seeds, passion fruit, sunflower, cucumber seed, rice …

And we can consider as insensient the oils of: Apricot, Abyssinia, almonds, argan, sea buckthorn, avocado, babassu, bayberries, baobab, burití, cocoa butter, calófilo, camellia, cupuaçú butter, jojoba, shea butter, coconut butter, mango butter, macadamia, neem, hazelnuts, Brazil nut, olive, castor, salt butter, or sesame oil …

VEGETABLE OILS WITH SPECIAL TREATING PROPERTIES ACCORDING TO SKIN TYPE

Depending on the type of skin to which our cosmetic product is directed, we can select one or another type of oil. For example, oils with a high palmitic acid content can be interesting for the formulation of cosmetics for dry skin.

Oils with a high content of oleic acid, such as almond oil, may interest us to improve the penetration of other active ingredients of a cosmetic formulation.

The iodine index can also help us in this decision, since oils with a higher iodine index will have a higher risk of oxidation.

OILS AND OILS: THE DEGREE OF COMEDOGENY OF THE DIFFERENT OILS

As we announced at the beginning of our entry, another factor that can make us decide on one oil or another when preparing our formulations is the degree of comedogeny.

Logically, if we want to formulate a product  to treat oily skin or skin affected by acne, we will try to avoid oils whose degree of comedogeny is high.

However, the term “oily” is not directly linked to comedogenesis per se. Not because something is oily means that we will have an oily face and excess in sebum, since there are non-greasy products that are comedogenic (especially those formulated with mineral oils derived from petroleum that cause occlusion of the pores of the skin), while there are numerous vegetable oils that do not cause these unwanted effects.

On the contrary, these vegetable oils are recommended for facial cleansing or to counteract acne problems. And although vegetable oils, in principle, are suitable for nourishing all skin types, we will avoid those more comedogenic (pore clogging) in oily and acne-prone skin. Among them, we will avoid: Coconut oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, evening primrose oil, cocoa butter and also wheat germ oil …

There is a scale that measures the degree of comedogenicity of the oils. It is known as the Comedogenic Scale. The comedogenic scale includes a gradation of zero to five in which oils with the lowest gradations (0 to 2) are considered non-comedogenic and oils with the highest gradations (3 to 5) are considered oils with the highest possibilities to clog pores and leave a greasy feeling on the skin, which, on the other hand, is highly recommended in the case of dry or dehydrated skin.

https://misaceititos.com/lista-de-aceites-comedogenicos-y-no-comedogenicos/

On the “cosmetics to test” page they offer a slightly different list:

https://cosmeticaaprueba.com/aceites-comedogenicos-y-no-comedogenicos/

Argan, safflower and hemp oils would be classified at level O for comedogeneity. This list also includes petroleum jelly and paraffin which, as you know, are mineral oils derived from petroleum and whose use we strongly discourage since they clog skin pores.

Classified at level 1 would be the oils of babassu, camellia, castor, grapeseed, abyssinian, rosehip, sea buckthorn, shea butter and mango butter, squalene (this popular oil composed of fatty acids derived from olive oil) , sunflower (be careful, not the kitchen one, but a cosmetic quality bio oil), and calendula oil, which is not an oil but a marigold macerate of calendula flowers in sunflower oil, normally.

Classified in level 2 would be the oils of almonds, apricot, evening primrose, borage, jojoba, olive, tamanu or calophyll, baobab and hazelnuts.

Classified at level 3 would be avocado, macadamia, cottonseed, corn and sesame oils.

Classified at level 4 would be coconut, palm, linseed, soybean and cocoa butter oils.

Classified at level 5 (very comedogenic) would be wheat germ oil.

In general, it is proposed to avoid the following oils classified as “very comedogenic” or grade 4 to 5 in cosmetic formulations intended to treat oily skin: Wheat germ oil, of course, but also coconut, palm, flaxseed, soybeans, avocado, sesame, corn, evening primrose and cocoa butter.

The following oils are also proposed as the most suitable for all types of face par excellence:

JOJOBA oil: Also called “liquid gold”. It is a type of liquid, non-greasy wax, which is identical to the sebum that we produce naturally, which makes it the ideal oil for all skin types.

ARGAN oil: This oil is ideal since its value on the comedogenic scale is 0. It repairs the skin, regulates sebum, prevents and improves acne and is excellent for scars.

 Considering the different types of skins and their needs, the following types of oils are proposed:

Vegetable oils to care for sensitive skin: Sesame (soothing, nourishing, antioxidant), Shea (Nourishing, restorative, soothing), olive oil (soothing).

Vegetable oils to regulate mixed and oily skin: Jojoba (regulates sebum production and is antioxidant), hazelnut (Regulates sebum production and is firming), neem (is antibacterial, regulator and antiseptic) …

Vegetable oils to treat dry skin: Almonds, avocado (protective, restorative, moisturizing and antioxidant), wheat germ (restorative, revitalizing), shea butter (nourishing, protective), cocoa butter (nourishing, restorative, protective), mango butter (moisturizer, emollient, softener).

Vegetable oils for mature skin: Rosehip (regenerating, anti-wrinkle, anti-blemish, tonic and revitalizing), argan (antioxidant and anti-aging), shea butter (regenerating), evening primrose (activates circulation), avocado butter (antioxidant and anti-aging), olive oil and cocoa butter.

NON-COMEDOGENIC OILS SUITABLE IF YOUR SKIN IS ACNEIC

The oils that we classified as suitable are those of: Abyssinia, jojoba, grape seeds, hemp, rice bran, apricot, hazelnut and almonds.

https://biosakure.com/blogs/news/acne-aceites-comedogenicos-a-evitar

As you can see in this list, we include almond oil and hazelnut oil, because, depending on the literature, they appear as suitable and with a level of comedogenicity of 2 that is always indicative because “each skin” is a different world and what works for one does not automatically mean that will do for another person.

In this way, and taking into account the factors detailed above, we can define some of the oils we use most commonly:

Almonds: Oil suitable for its composition in fatty acids (high oleic) to treat and hydrate dry skin, with a low sensitivity to oxidation and rancidity and with a low degree of comedogenicity that makes it a versatile oil suitable for almost everything type of preparations.

Argan: Oil suitable for treating mature, sensitive and oily skin due to its balanced composition of oleic and linoleic fatty acids and its low comedogenic degree. It is also not very sensitive to oxidation, which makes it a very useful multipurpose oil.

Hazelnuts: Oil with a high level of oleic acid that gives it great hydration capacity. Its low comedogenic level, however, makes it suitable for hydrating oily skin. On the other hand, it is an oil that is not very sensitive to oxidation, which gives it greater long-term stability.

And we would continue like this with the oils most frequently used in natural cosmetics such as: Avocado, borage, coconut, black cumin, camellia, sea buckthorn, raspberry seeds or wheat germ that we already know that, in principle, would only be suitable for treating mature and dry skin due to its high degree of comedogenicity.

However, the amount of vitamin E that this oil naturally contains makes it a widely used oil mixed with other vegetable oils in all kinds of formulations to which it provides vitamin E, avoiding rancidity and enriching cosmetic compositions.

Although it is true that the sun’s rays in excess and at certain hours can be harmful to our body, sunbathing also has some benefits, the main one, generate vitamin D in our body, a vitamin that helps strengthen bones, provides energy to the muscular system, activates the immune system defenses, helps keep blood pressure low, reduces skin conditions such as psoriasis or acne, and helps you sleep.

In recent years, oral cosmetics have developed a lot, based on food supplements that help take care of the skin from within. Some of them favor tanning and neutralize the oxidizing processes of solar radiation.

They are usually beta-carotenes, the antioxidant pigment of orange fruits and vegetables, such as carrots, pumpkins or apricots, although they can carry other carotenoids and vitamins C and E. They cannot be used as a substitute for sunscreen, but they contribute to photoprotection and increase antioxidant levels in the skin and blood.

https://www.cuerpomente.com/salud-natural/belleza-natural/filtros-minerales-piel-sol_8637

To prepare our skin for the summer and protect it from the oxidative damage of UV rays also favoring that our complexion adopts a uniform tan tone it is important, therefore, to try to provide vitamins (especially vitamins A, C, E and selenium) as well as antioxidants and omega 3 fatty acids.

 However, as we always say on our page, what better option if we are looking for an extra protection than to start consuming foods rich in beta-carotenes that are also those that come in the summer season?

The reality is that we can achieve the same effect by consuming daily foods rich in these vitamins, very abundant in tomatoes, apricots, melon, carrots, broccoli, spinach, mango or pumpkin and in many other orange, red and green foods. As well as foods rich in omega 3 unsaturated fatty acids (nuts, oily fish, salmon …) that will be very beneficial to prepare our skin and hydrate us with enough water. Also consider that all these foods provide fiber and many other micronutrients, which capsules do not.

Mother Nature is a great foresight and just as in winter she provides us with vitamin C from oranges to deal with colds, in summer she provides us with fruits rich in beta-carotene such as: apricots, peaches, cherries, strawberries, berries … It is nature’s way of preparing us for the greatest influx of sunlight.

The main function of vitamin E in the body is to help protect cells and tissues from oxidative damage. Today, we are all exposed to unwanted oxidative influences (such as excessive ultraviolet radiation from sunlight and environmental pollution). Vitamin E thus contributes to the maintenance of healthy cells and tissues by  eliminating free radicals. Therefore, it is also important to make sure that we ingest the necessary amount of vitamin E. Sources of vitamin E include vegetable oils, nuts, seeds, fatty fish, eggs, whole grains, vegetables (including spinach), and fruits.

In short, a diet rich in fresh fruits and vegetables and essential fatty acids will undoubtedly help us moisturize our skin in summer and strengthen our skin’s defenses.

At a cosmetic level, we can prepare an oily serum rich in beta-carotenes that will prepare our skin for the sun giving it an even tone and avoiding excesses of harmful rays and burns.

BIOLOGICAL SUNSCREENS AND NATURAL PHOTO PROTECTIVE OILS

Sunbathing is highly recommended, but there is a growing awareness of the importance of protecting the skin from solar radiation and also from chemicals that can be harmful. Hence, the search for natural alternatives in different facets of life also affects sun protection.

Conventional commercial sunscreens use very powerful chemical filters that absorb photons from solar radiation by altering their molecular structure. These filters are the ones that carry most sunscreens on the market and their use is very common, because they are transparent, easy to apply and do not stain on clothes. On the other hand, it has been seen that the skin absorbs them, sometimes producing allergic reactions and a photo-cumulative phenomenon that can end up causing alterations in the cells of the epidermis.

The natural alternative is mineral and biological filters based on plant extracts, which ensure a high dermatological tolerance avoiding allergic reactions sometimes caused by chemical filters with their perfumes, preservatives, dyes and synthetic emulsifiers.

Within these, we find mineral filters, which are also known as “physical filters” and are composed of minerals that reflect solar radiation forming an opaque barrier and acting as if they were small mirrors. The most common mineral filters are titanium dioxide, magnesium dioxide, zinc oxide, calcium carbonate and talc. Although everything may seem like advantages, it happens that these filters that are not absorbed form a whitish film on the skin that displeases many consumers.

And purely biological filters based on plant extracts, butters and oils that, although they have a lower photo protection factor than the mineral filters detailed above, have the advantage of not leaving stains and, at the same time, moisturizing the skin. These vegetal substances or seed-oils filter part of the radiation while providing regenerative and restructuring substances to our skin.

THE APPLICATION OF SOLAR OILS

Within this category of “biological filters”, we would find vegetable solar oils that, sometimes, we can macerate ourselves. This is the case of carrot oil that we present below.

These solar oils have the great advantage that we can apply them before exposure to the sun’s rays, during and after always trying to sunbathe progressively and avoiding the central hours of the day.

After sun exposure it is important to calm and hydrate the skin, therefore, we will reapply our sun oil and, if necessary, aloe vera gel to prevent irritation.

There is a great variety of solar oils and vegetable macerates that we can use, such as apricot oil, rich in beta-carotenes that contribute to sun tanning, raspberry seed oil, with a high biological photoprotection factor, macerated oil of seeds of urucum, or even Tahitian monoï oil.

IN A SIMPLE MANNER

As we said, in a simple way, we can prepare ourselves a carrot oil macerated in a vegetable oil rich in antioxidants that we all have easily at our disposal. For example, an apricot, linseed or sesame oil.

Spreading ourselves with this macerate rich in beta-carotene and biological solar filters before and after exposing ourselves to the sun’s rays will help us to hydrate our skin and protect it from the sun.

Our carrot oil macerate (Daucus carota) will contain a significant amount of beta-carotenes. We can, therefore, use it as a tanning enhancing solar oil, since it will favour the formation of melanin. In addition, because it is rich in vitamins A and E, which makes it beneficial for dry skin, with wrinkles and lack of firmness, it will be regenerating and we can also use it as an after-sun oil.

We have used linseed oil for its richness in omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, but using apricot oil as a base would also be an excellent idea because apricot oil is also rich in beta-carotene and enhances the effects of the carrot’s macerated, or, even sesame oil whose biological photo protection factor is also interesting. A simple virgin olive oil, if we don’t have anything better, has a good number of natural antioxidants.

And, finally, we have added vitamin E and raspberry CO2 extract, which is a super antioxidant that will extend the life of our oil avoiding its run off and providing it with protective properties against the incidence of the sun’s rays.

PREPARATION:

Preparing a macerated carrot oil is within anyone’s reach. It will be enough to chop and grate a carrot and dehydrate it (letting the zests dry in the open air, oven or dehydrator) to avoid that when introducing them into the base oil of our choice molds can occur.

Once well dried, we will let them macerate in oil in a glass container with a lid (a recycled jam jar, for example) for a period of 2 weeks in which we will frequently remove our maceration.

Now we will use a paper coffee filter to filter our oleate very well and extend its shelf life. Also, for this reason we are going to add a few drops of vitamin E that will prevent rancidity and provide it with properties and a few drops of C02 raspberry extract.

Below, we show you some of the best natural sun protection oils that you can use to protect your skin from the sun, both in winter and summer. Just keep in mind that the SPF indicated is always approximate.

Raspberry seed oil: SPF 28-45

Wheat germ oil: SPF 20-22

    Tamanu or calophyll oil: SPF 18-22

Avocado oil: SPF 10-15

Coconut butter: SPF 6-8

Macadamia oil: SPF 5-6

Shea butter: SPF 5

Jojoba oil: SPF: 4-5

Almond oil: SPF 4-5

Grape seed oil: SPF 4

Sesame oil: SPF 4

SOLAR OIL RECIPE WITH OLEO-MACERATED URUCUM EXTRACT

We will make this serum from a macerate of powdered urucum extract. This plant is native to tropical America, and its seeds are very rich in minerals, trace elements and beta-carotene (100 times more than carrots), which acts as a powerful antioxidant but also stimulates the production of melanin, responsible for tanning, and protects the skin against ultraviolet rays.

We are going to prepare the maceration with sesame oil, which already has a biological protection factor against UVA rays. Also, some other vegetable oils have the ability to give us a light sun protection (SPF between 2 and 8) as we mentioned before. These would be the oils of avocado, coconut, monoï, sesame, jojoba, apricot, olive, castor, almond, shea butter …

Or, in greater proportion, due to its high amount of carotenoids, karanja oils, carrot seeds, raspberries, burití and, of course, the maceration of urucum that, next, we will show you how to prepare. 

How to make urucum macerated:

50 ml. sesame oil

5 gr. of urucum powder

It is left to macerate for a week stirring from time to time and filtered, preferably, with a paper coffee filter because urucum extract stains the fabrics.

And with our oily macerated urucum, we are going to prepare the bronzer. The recipe is for a container of about 50 ml:

Ingredients:

48 ml. of macerated urucum oil

20 drops of CO2 extract from pomegranate or raspberry

Optionally: 4-5 drops of ylang ylang essential oil (it can also be geranium, carrot, or rosewood…)

How to proceed: Add the ingredients one by one mixing well with the rod and ready. We can already bottle it in a glass container with dispenser.

As you can see, it is not difficult and leaves the skin luminous and with a beautiful tone. Be very careful with clothes because they can leave stains. It can also be used to soothe the skin after sun exposure.

ANOTHER POSSIBILITY WITH NATURAL MACERATED MONOÏ

We will use natural macerated monoï oil whose INCI we detail below:  Cocos Nucifera Oil, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower, Tocopherol, Natural Parfum…

The Monoï of Tahiti has its origins in French Polynesia. Monoï oil has been manufactured for 2000 years due to its special characteristics. In French Polynesia, the oil is sacred and is used for both skin and hair. It is a very popular oil because it has a wonderful aroma and an intense care effect. Tahitian Monoï oil is made using a complex method, “Enfleurage”, by soaking the native Tiaré flower (Gardenia Tahitensis) in locally sourced coconut oil.

At the cutaneous level, monoï oil has a soothing and emollient effect that provides lasting hydration. It is possible to use monoï oil as an oil for the skin, oil for massage and as care for after the sun. The oil leaves a wonderful tropical floral aroma on the skin.

At hair level, it is said that it is a highly moisturizing oil that can improve its elasticity and prevent its breakage in a great way.

The only consideration is that most macerated oils have a shelf life of about twelve months, including Monoï from Tahiti. To keep the oil as long as possible, it is important to keep it cool and dry. Preferably in a dark place. It is not necessary to keep the oil in the refrigerator. Keep in mind that at a temperature below 20 degrees this oil solidifies.

Ingredients for a 50 ml container:

30 ml. of macerated monoï oil

1 ml. raspberry CO2 extract (can be replaced by Sea buckthorn)

10 drops ylang ylang essential oil

4 drops of vitamin E

Fill with apricot oil up to 50 ml.

How to proceed:

First add the monoï oil  to the beaker until it reaches 30 ml. (You may have to undo it beforehand in a bain-marie).

Then the essential oil, vitamin E and raspberry extract are added.

Finally, the apricot oil is added until it reaches 50 ml and mixes well to go to the dosing container.

If we use any of these solar oils: Macerated carrot oil, macerated Urucum oil, Monoï oil or apricot oil rich in beta-carotene; normally, we will not have irritation skin problems after moderate exposure to sunlight and always avoiding the central hours of the day.

The Sun gives life to the Earth, but our relationship with it must be one of sustained balance. Although it is true that our skin needs it to synthesize the vitamin D responsible for very important functions in the body, it is also true that an excess of sun exposure, especially in the central hours of the day, can have serious repercussions on our skin and not only of an aesthetic nature.

In an article by Marta Beltrà García-Calvo and Ana Belén Ropero Lara, professors of Nutrition and Bromatology* at the Miguel Hernández University of Alicante; an analysis is made about the need for the vitamin of the sun in order to strengthen our defenses and the prevention of infectious diseases among other multiple functions.

*Bromatology is, along with nutrition, an academic discipline that deals with studying the chemical composition of foods, as well as the calories and nutrients they contain, their physical properties and their toxicology.

WE NEED THE SUN TO SYNTHESIZE VITAMIN D

Our skin produces this micronutrient thanks to the sun’s UVB rays, but we can also get vitamin D through food. In both cases, in order to function properly in the body, you must first go through a chemical process that is developed in the liver and kidneys.

Among the few foods that contain vitamin D we find butter, eggs or oily fish. However, the Spanish Agency for Food Safety and Nutrition recommends avoiding or limiting the consumption of large fish with high mercury content, including swordfish, bluefin tuna, shark and pike.

Functions of this vitamin

1) The role of vitamin D in bone health has been known for years. It promotes the absorption of calcium in the intestine and is used for many biological processes. In addition, this micronutrient is necessary for the growth and development of bones in children. It also helps, along with calcium, to reduce the loss of bone mineralization in postmenopausal women and prevents osteoporosis.

When there is vitamin D deficiency, the bones are the main affected. In children it manifests itself in the form of rickets, which can lead to bone fractures and poor tooth development. In adults it causes osteomalacia (weak bones, bone pain and muscle weakness) and osteoporosis in older people.

2) Vitamin D is also involved in other biological functions. Muscles, the immune system, phosphorus metabolism and teeth are some of its targets.

Studies show that vitamin D deficiencies are associated with increased risk of several diseases: upper respiratory tract infections, autoimmune diseases or allergies, cardiovascular problems and even higher mortality. Lower levels of vitamin D have also been linked to obesity, type 2 diabetes and metabolic syndrome.

The World Cancer Research Foundation is the international institution of reference in the field of cancer. In its 2018 report, it indicates that an adequate intake of vitamin D could be related to a lower incidence of colorectal cancer. Despite all the information we have, there is considerable controversy regarding the optimal doses to achieve clear benefits with vitamin D. The clinical efficacy of supplements does not meet expectations. Even worse: it is difficult to find an appropriate method to detect deficiencies in vitamin D.

So how much sun do we need to take according to the experts?

Apparently, the ideal is to do outdoor activities in winter and autumn, since the intensity of solar radiation is low and we are more covered.

In summer and spring, when the sun’s rays fall perpendicular, it is enough to sunbathe on legs, arms and face for 15 minutes, at least 3 times a week.

Despite the sun’s benefits in vitamin D synthesis, UVB rays can cause skin cancer. For this reason, we must take many precautions. In summer, even on cloudy days, you should not be exposed to the sun between 12 and 17 hours and it is advisable to use a sunscreen.

With regard to this issue of sun protection is where more controversies arise about natural or “homemade” sunscreen products. The main complaint is that how is it possible to know the degree of photo protection of a homemade sunscreen.

But is this really that important? If we are not supposed to be exposed to the sun in the central hours of the day, do we really need a protective factor of 50 as some experts publish? And what is actually a protection factor of 50?

The photoprotection of 50 does not really exist, there are approximations that are formulated based on endocrine disrupting chemicals such as oxybenzone.

The sunscreens that we normally find on the market, usually contain a high percentage of sunscreen filters, which are mostly chemical filters. These chemical filters have the advantage that our skin absorbs them well and that they are easy to apply, but they also have several drawbacks, as we will see below:

https://www.abc.es/salud/noticias/20140715/abci-mellanoma-nature-cremas-solares-201407150928.html

According to the researcher Berta López Sánchez-Laorden, from the Institute of Neurosciences of the Miguel Hernández University (UMH) of Elche and the Spanish National Research Council (CSIC).

“Using sunscreen creams protects against immediate radiation damage such as sunburn, but radiation can still penetrate, as well as damage cell DNA and cause cancer.”

The FDA (an organization that authorizes or bans medical products in the United States) has recognized that sunscreens do not serve to prevent skin cancer and argue as follows:

Damage the skin:  There has been an increase in skin and lip cancers in recent years which are associated with the use of sunscreens with chemical filters, and you may wonder… why? Well, these sunscreens do not form a protective barrier between our skin and the sun as we might think… No,  it is not. The latest studies show that ultraviolet rays penetrate the skin and protection is done thanks to reactions that take place in our skin. And as we told you before, since we do not burn, we allow us to spend more hours in the sun. The most negative part is that, since chemical filters do not prevent ultraviolet rays from entering our skin, they end up damaging our cells. And of course, the sun is cumulative and our skin has memory, so, many days a year, for years sunbathing…

They act as hormonal disruptors:  Many of us already know what endocrine disruptors are. These  substances have the capacity to alter our hormones, this is a very serious issue and one that deserves our full attention. One study links a type of sunscreen, called benzophenone, to an increase in women with endometriosis.

And, in any case, they damage the environment: Chemical filters are not biodegradable, in fact, it is estimated that every year 4000 tons of these chemical filters are deposited and accumulate on the seabed. According to a study of the EHP (Environmental Health Perpectives) carried out by Professor Donovaro in different parts of the world, they concluded that sunscreens with chemical filters have a negative impact on coral reefs. Today it is estimated that more than 60% of coral reefs are in poor condition. Many marine animals live and depend on these reefs so, they too would be affected. In some marine reserves, such as the Tulum biosphere reserve in Mexico, the use of sunscreens with chemical filters is prohibited.

Unfortunately, many of the ecologically certified creams also have an impact on marine life. The best solution is therefore to make or buy photoprotective creams based on physical filters that leave the skin white (since they are not “nano” and are not absorbed). These filters are the best for our skin and also, therefore, for marine life.

And let’s not lose sight of the fact that these commercial sunscreens, apart from “chemical” filters, contain other substances (parabens, phenoxyethanol, silicones, …) that should also be avoided.

TIPS FOR COPING WITH THE SUMMER SUN

-Clothing also serves to protect us from the sun. In fact, our grandparents used it to protect themselves from the sun without chemicals or sunscreen. We may want to wear loose-fitting garments of light fabrics such as cotton muslin and linen. Hats and sunglasses are also very helpful accessories.

-The second golden standard is to avoid the direct exposure to the sun at noon, especially in summer days when the sun’s rays have a much greater incidence.

-And the third rule is to be prepared for the summer with an antioxidant diet since our skin is our first line of defense. Eating lots of summer vegetables and fruits minimizes the chance that free radicals can damage our skin. Nature is very wise, and the foods of the summer season are the ones that contain the greatest amount of antioxidants: apricots, peaches,  strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, cherries …

Thus, provide your body with vitamins and antioxidant compounds, such as vitamin C (fresh fruits and vegetables), vitamin E (nuts, seeds, avocados) and carotenes (red, orange, yellow and green vegetables), which increase the resistance of the skin to solar radiation; it is a great idea to protect ourselves from the impact of rays on our skin and keep it beautiful.

At the same time, consuming foods rich in omega 3 (oily fish, legumes and nuts…) and enough water is also very important. These foods are what our bodies need to have healthy skin and natural protection from the sun.

And, if we have to stay in the sun between 11 in the morning and 5 in the afternoon in the summer, it is advisable to resort to a natural or ecological certified sunscreen that is free of chemical filters and other potentially harmful synthetic ingredients. Certified sunscreens use only harmless physical mineral filters like the ones we promote in our homemade cosmetic recipes.

When we talk about physical filters, also known as mineral filters, we are talking about zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As the name suggests they are of mineral origin and are those used in natural and BIO cosmetics. Unlike chemical filters that interact with the skin to protect us, these filters make a reflective protective layer on the surface of the skin as a mirror. And this is achieved by leaving a white layer on the skin, which is why they are usually more difficult to extend. These are safe and biodegradable, as long as they do not contain nanoparticles. And this can always be verified very easily. The protectors that leave us white skin do not contain nanoparticles and are not absorbed, that is why our skin is whitish.

Don’t be fooled, a cream that is translucent or almost translucent actually always uses nanoparticles, even if the manufacturer says not to.

In addition, these mineral filters, if we have sensitive skin, rarely cause an allergic reaction. They are called broad-spectrum filters because they protect against UV-B and UV-A radiation. In addition, zinc oxide is superior to titanium dioxide; the latter lacks a small part of the UVA spectrum in its protection.

OUR NATURAL PROPOSAL FOR THE SUMMER

Look at the ingredients of Maison Shea’s mineral screen protective cream with SPF of 20 and based on organic certified natural extracts.

INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter*, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil*, Mauritius Flexuosa Seed Oil, Zinc Oxide, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract*

This outdoor butter with mineral screen (Zinc Oxide) also contains natural biological filters for an extra protection such as shea butter, urucum extract, and sesame and buriti vegetable oils.

We could summarize the ingredients it contains as follows:

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter*)

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil*.

Buriti Vegetable Oil (Mauritius Flexuosa Seed Oil)

Zinc oxide and

Urucum powder (Bixa Orellana Seed Extract*)

Tell me if we can’t formulate a similar cream in a homemade way that will automatically have a similar protection factor?

PHOTOPROTECTIVE BUTTER; WE HAVE FORMULATED IT AS FOLLOWS:

Ingredients:

45 gr. of shea butter

25 gr. of sesame or apricot oil, which provides beta-carotene

Optional: 5 grams  of  buriti  or  karanja oil (act as powerful biological filters)

10 gr. of urucum infused oil, replaceable by carrot infused oil (also bio filters)

10 gr. of zinc oxide (mineral filter)

5 grams of edible grade diatomaceous earth (we like to add this component so that the recipe has a less oily texture since diatomaceous earth is a good absorbent that provides consistency and dermoprotective substances such as silica). Failing that, it would be substitutable for kaolin clay, although not exactly the same.

5 drops of vitamin E

Optionally: a few drops of lavender essential oil

The essential oils that protect us from the sun are mainly the following: essential oil of lavender, myrrh, carrot seeds, and mint.

*It is very important that zinc oxide is without nanoparticles because these are the ones that can be absorbed and cause toxicity problems. The whiter our skin is, the more protection our mineral filter will offer.

PROCEDURE:

The shea butter is weighed and undone in a water bath until melted.

We lower the heat to a minimum to maintain the quality of the ingredients.

Next, we are adding the rest of the oils, mixing everything very well with the rod.

We continue adding the zinc oxide and the urucum infused oil, mixing well with the rod.

It is time to add vitamin E and lavender essential oil.

We bottle it and leave it in the fridge for a while so that the ointment takes on consistency.

HOW TO MAKE URUCUM INFUSED OIL:

50 ml. of coconut or sesame oil, which are photoprotective in themselves

5 gr. of urucum  powder

It is allowed to macerate a week stirring from time to time

It is filtered, preferably with an unbleached coffee filter because the urucum stains the fabrics.

This infused urucum oil will be added to our solar photoprotective butter recipe, and we can also take advantage of it to make a tanning serum. The following recipe is for a container of about 50 ml:

TANNING SERUM

Ingredients:

48 ml. of infused urucum oil

20 drops of pomegranate or raspberry CO2 extract

5 drops of vitamin E

Optionally: 4-5 drops of ylang ylang essential oil (can be also geranium, carrot, rosewood…)

PROCEDURE: The ingredients are added one by one, mixing well with the rod and that’s it.

As you can see, it is not difficult at all and leaves the skin luminous and with a beautiful tone. Be very careful with clothing because it can leave stains.

However, it has the great advantage of leaving the skin with a tanned tone without having to worry about sunbathing when you have winter white skin. In addition, it can also be used to soothe the skin after sun exposure.

And why it seems to us to be a suitable preservative in natural cosmetics.

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Much is being speculated lately about this synthetic preservative that is obtained from the polyphenols of grapefruit pulp and seeds.

The discredit about this preservative comes from sources that after analyzing the commercial extracts deduce that they are contaminated, mainly, of Benzethonium Chloride, which, according to these sources, is the true responsible for the bactericidal action of the grapefruit seed extract since this pure extract and without contaminating it has no effect against molds or bacteria.

In a blog post on natural cosmetics by Mar de Jabón this is very clear: https://mardejabon.wordpress.com/2020/07/19/extracto-de-semillas-de-pomelo

However, in this article we want to offer a different perspective.

To begin with, we want to clarify the exact and real composition of this extract and its synthesis process.

Logically, a natural extract of grapefruit seed and pulp in ethanol or glycerin, does not have any antibacterial properties. But is this really what the main brands producing GSE (grapefruit seed extract, in English) sell us ?: No, it is not this.

Mountain Rose Herbs, one of the most respected and trusted suppliers of organic herbs, extracts and essential oils, lists the composition of the pure GSE they sell (which is probably from the Citricidal brand):

Ascorbic acid- 3%

Glycerol- 36%

Diphenol hydroxybenzene (bioflavinoid grapefruit quaternary compound) — 58.5%

Heavy metals: none detected

Bencelthonium Chloride — None Detected

Methyl Hydroxybenzoate — None Detected

Propyl hydroxybenzoate — None detected

Triclosan- None detected

So even though GSE appears free of other contaminants, it is primarily made up of diphenol hydroxybenzene, a synthetic compound that is, in any case, not classified as certified organic on the Mountain Rose Herbs website.

So where is the deception? In its composition it is clearly specified that it is not a natural preservative, although it is originally one. To clarify it, we are going to detail the synthesis process of grapefruit seed extract.

The process of making grapefruit seed extract:

1.- The pulp and the grapefruit seed are dried and ground until obtaining a fine powder. The powder is dissolved in purified water and distilled to remove fiber and pectin.

2.- The distilled suspension is spray dried at low temperatures to form a concentrated flavonoid powder. This concentrated powder is dissolved in vegetable glycerin and heated.

3.- And here the synthesis phase begins: Food grade ammonium chloride and ascorbic acid (which, in case you didn’t know, is vitamin C of the same that can be purchased in a vitamin supplement) are added and this mixture is heated under pressure. The amount of ammonium chloride remaining in the finished GSE is 15–19%; the amount of ascorbic acid remaining is 2.5–3.0%.

4.- The ammonia mixture is subjected to catalytic conversion using natural catalysts, which include hydrochloric acid and natural enzymes. No hydrochloric acid residue remains after the reaction. The suspension is cooled, filtered and treated with ultraviolet light.

As you can see, this is not a truly natural process, since it is treated with hydrochloric acid and ammonium chloride. After all the chemical reactions occur, the final composition of the extract is made up of about 60% diphenol hydroxybenzene, a chemical classified as quaternary ammonium chloride, the same as bencelthonium chloride. In fact, it is chemically identical to bencelthonium chloride.

This is one possible reason that laboratory tests have shown GSE to be “contaminated” with benceltonium chloride: the laboratory tests possibly misinterpreted diphenol hydroxybenzene.

To continue with our argument, we want to clarify what a synthetic or synthetic compound is, as is the case here.

According to the RAE (Royal Academy of the Spanish Language) the compendium of one thing is called synthesis; to the creation of something from the union of its parts; and, in chemistry, to the process that allows to obtain a compound starting from substances that are simpler. The most common use of the concept is associated with the product manufactured using mechanisms and industrial techniques that allow the characteristics of a natural substance to be reproduced.

Thus, for example, a compound can have a natural origin, as this is the case, since we start from natural grapefruit pulp and seeds, and, from there, start a synthesis process in a laboratory that will turn it into a synthesis product.

And, taking into account its origin, it is possible to classify all known matter into natural substances and artificial substances. Natural substances are those that are commonly found in nature, whether organic or not, as is the case with minerals. Artificial or synthetic substances are those created or manufactured by man, in factories, metallurgies or laboratories, whether they are new and non-existent species, or synthetic replicas of natural compounds, such as resins and synthetic fabrics.

Not everything synthetic is bad, nor everything natural is harmless …

Let’s imagine a chemical substance produced by some plant; for example, vanillin, which is the essence of vanilla. Vanillin is natural and can be extracted from the pods of the plant, but demand exceeds production and therefore natural vanilla beans are very expensive. However, in the supermarket we can find vanilla flavorings at a reasonable price, whose essence is not extracted from the natural source, but synthesized in the laboratory, simply because it is cheaper to prepare it than to extract it from the plant. In addition, the environmental impact of doing it in the laboratory is less, since the overexploitation of natural sources is negative for the environment.

Now, is artificial vanilla worse than natural? Is it bad? The answer is no. The artificial molecule is a copy of the natural one (we are not going to claim that they are identical either because it has been proven many times with supplements that synthetic copies do not offer the same protection as natural elements). However, our vanilla copy molecule has the same taste, smell, and possible harmful effects. Since vanilla is non-toxic, this means that we would have to take several whole jars of vanilla essence at once or eat several kilos of vanilla beans for us to ask for a headache and skin irritation. Something similar could happen with something as natural as water; If we suddenly drank a 20-liter jug ​​of water, we would surely end up in the emergency room of some hospital. It all depends on the amount ingested, that is, the dose.

People call “synthetic” to harmful and bad “chemicals” … Public opinion accuses “chemical” substances of the fact that there are so many pesticides, diseases, poisoned food, etc … but people do not think sometimes in the substances and mixtures that heal, feed, decorate, embellish, dress us or form our homes and furnishings.

And it is that there is intelligent chemistry, which aims to imitate nature with all its successes, although it is not an easy task, and there is less intelligent chemistry, which we are going to call industrial chemistry. Why? Because it consists of those cheap synthetic vitamins that are counterproductive rather than favoring us, or of those compounds that try to imitate natural substances in large quantities and that become toxic substances due to their low bioavailability. We already discussed this issue in the article on alum stone in which we talked about the toxicity problem of toothpastes enriched with synthetic fluorides, and how, when bioavailable fluoride was used, which exists naturally as it is contained in many foods, such as green tea; the problem disappeared.

The problem with synthetic chemicals is that they are manufactured, in many cases, mainly from petroleum products that can be polluting; either because they alter physiological processes and ecosystems, or because they do not degrade adequately. And so we tend to see this harmful part of chemistry without thinking about all the good things that we enjoy today thanks to its development.

We do not think, for example, how difficult it would be to live without “preservatives” because fresh food is becoming popular everywhere as a source of health. But, in our current society, is it really possible to live only with fresh foods, or is it sometimes necessary to consume foods that contain preservatives?

You should know that even the boxes of whole grains for breakfast contain preservatives, as well as the breads or juices with the label of fresh from the supermarket. The fresh gazpacho soup that we now all buy packed in tetra brik, the vegetables for salad packed, etc, etc, etc … And if we decide, therefore, to buy the lettuce totally fresh, it will contain traces of pesticides unless it is from ecological agriculture, in which case, we will also have to wash it very well because it will contain remains of worms, slugs and larvae.

But that is another question. It is the question for which we have initiated this debate. The battle, as always, will be to use the least necessary preservatives and to make sure that they are as natural and beneficial as possible.

And, in natural cosmetics, which is the topic that concerns us in this blog, we must deal with these issues. Certainly, we can prepare creams based on oils and natural emulsifiers such as beeswax that do not need preservatives of any kind, but it is always possible to dispense with lighter and more moisturizing creams and lotions with a water phase that need conservation, with aloe vera commercial gels, containing preservatives, or with the wonderful natural soaps made with caustic soda, which is another synthetic substance?

Or, as has now been evidenced by the Covid 19 pandemic, can we all survive the pandemic without having to get a vaccine (another synthetic compound) and only reinforcing our defenses with natural food and exercise? This is another very controversial issue in the world of natural medicine and naturopathy.

Everything is chemical. What are we, the muscles, the DNA, the proteins, the nails, the hair? Chemical substances and mixtures. The point is that there is more intelligent chemistry, and the chemistry of nature contains great wisdom, and there is less intelligent chemistry.

We believe that it is in everyone’s interest to use less harmful and more biodegradable food additives and preservatives every day, more natural and comprehensive medicines, and better cosmetic preservatives.

And this is the point with the GSE that, as we know, is a synthetic compound but that can be ingested and that many naturopaths use to treat internal infections without suspicion of toxicity or environmental damage as detailed in the base of cosmetic ingredients:

https : //www.ewg.org/skindeep/ or in the publications of the Department of Health of Canada.

Health Canada. 2007. List of Prohibited and Restricted Cosmetic Ingredients. Canada’s Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. March 2007.

So let’s take a look at diphenol hydroxybenzone. Why exactly do we want to avoid it?

According to studies by the American National Toxicology Program, it showed no evidence of carcinogenicity or endocrine disruption in a two-year study in rats and mice. However, this study showed that animals treated with bencelthonium chloride had greater inflammation in the body and a slightly lower survival rate than the control group.

Our personal opinion on this is that it is considerably safer than other preservatives.

I, for example, who suffer from dermatitis, cannot tolerate other preservatives traditionally used (and certified ECOCERT) such as Cosgard or Geogard, which is the same (INCI: Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol) and even essential oils (and we all know that they are totally natural substances), which, in many cases, can cause reactivity in sensitive skins.

Instead, the GSE, along with the Leucidal, are truly soft while still fulfilling their function. If you have sensitive and reactive skin, we recommend these two preservatives. Leucidal tends to work better with emulsions because GSE tends to destabilize them a bit. But, for example, to preserve natural aloe or some other liquid additives, GSE works especially well.

At home, it is possible to make preservative tinctures from resins such as rosin, colophony (or pine resin) and benzoin resin, which are totally natural and have many properties. This issue of preservatives in natural cosmetics is usually controversial, without a doubt, but it is necessary to know the preservatives we can safely dispose of in homemade natural cosmetics and, therefore, I am willing to prepare a new entry on preservatives.

However, we fully agree that as long as it is not necessary to use a preservative, since they are all more or less synthetic with the exception of essential oils, which, on the other hand, are also susceptible of causing reactivity, we will save ourselves a lot of problems.

And I think that in this blog of “slow” cosmetics (almost even Ayurvedic) we show off recipes and minimalist formulations, which many times do not even need preservatives at all.

And so we are determined to continue, making homemade cosmetics as natural as possible.