The easiest way to prepare creams with an herbal base is to make an herbal oil and then incorporate this oil into our formulation.
HOW A MACERATED OIL IS MADE
Here is a link to a previous blog post that explains how to make an “oleado” from wild rose hips.
Also this other link:
https://naturamatters.blog/2021/03/05/how-to-make-infused-oil-2/
However, you can also visualise the procedure in this video of the Gingko Education school: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BINGTb3ouqo
HOW TO MAKE A CREAM OR OINTMENT FROM HERBAL OIL
Once we know the method (either hot or cold) to macerate our herbs and prepare an oleado, we have two options:
1.- Use our oleado to prepare the balm or ointment, in this case we only need to add a certain amount of beeswax to thicken our ointment and it will be ready.
2.- We can choose to prepare our cream or ointment in situ by macerating our oil with an herbal extract of our choice. In this case, the process of preparing the oil occurs at the same time as we prepare our balm or ointment.
This video shows this second way of making our cream based on herbal extracts, in this case, calendula.
Balms or ointments require, as a general rule, an oil (or ointment if infused with herbal extracts) and a certain amount of beeswax to emulsify it.
General rule: The amount of beeswax used is always about a quarter of the oil or oil used. This is also known as the 10% rule, in which we would use 90% oil and 10% beeswax to emulsify the oil.
So, for example, to fill a container of about 100 grams, we would use about 90 grams of oil and about 10 grams of wax. This consistency is ideal for use on the face, hands, etc.
If we are looking to make an ointment that spreads almost like wax, then we can increase the amount of wax up to 15 grams. It depends on the consistency we are looking for.
In our opinion, 10 grams (1/4 wax) is an excellent consistency, but, for example, if we are looking to create an ointment with a high concentration of active ingredients, in order to spread it on small areas (for example, an ointment to treat haemorrhoids), it may be more interesting to use a higher proportion of wax so that the active ingredients are better concentrated.
WHY PREPARE A BALM-LIKE CREAM WITHOUT AN AQUEOUS PHASE?
Very simple. These creams do not require preservatives.
Only antioxidants such as vitamin E or rosemary extract CO2 are usually added to extend the life of the product, as these antioxidants prevent the rancidity of fats and oils.
By avoiding the use of preservatives and added synthetic actives, we obtain a product that is much gentler and more tolerable for all skin types.
This is especially important if our homemade DIY product is to be used by people with sensitive or atopic skin. In these cases, such products can be used on a daily basis to safely moisturise and nourish our skin.
The balms whose recipes are detailed below are totally suitable for treating sensitive or atopic skin and skin affected by dermatitis.
Of course, each has its own specific characteristics. For example, the oatmeal balm whose recipe is described below is particularly suitable for daily use on skin affected by itchy dermatitis, as oatmeal has an anti-inflammatory, itch-soothing effect on irritation.
It would be very interesting to use a calendula oil as a base oil for this balm, for example. By adding the ground oatmeal to it, we would enrich our balm even more, giving it very good properties for treating this type of sensitive skin.
In any case, with this type of skin, we must above avoid creams loaded with preservatives and synthetic active ingredients, even if they are homemade, as they have an irritating effect on this type of skin.
As well as minimising the use of essential oils (just a couple of drops, or none at all) and avoiding chemical fragrances as much as possible.
HOW TO PREPARE MACERATED HERBAL EXTRACTS
Very simple, grinding the dried herbs with a coffee grinder.
This is how we have made our oatmeal powder, from grinding the oat flakes from breakfast. Or aloe vera, from grinding the dried aloe bark left over from emptying the aloe stalks.
You can also use other powdered extracts such as orange, which also smells very good.
PROCEDURE:
To obtain the orange extract powder, follow the same procedure as above. Dry the orange peels, and when they are very dry, grind them in a coffee grinder.
This powder will be placed in a recycled glass jar, so that it will last much longer and can be used in future cosmetic preparations.
PROPERTIES OF DIFFERENT FLOURS AND HERBAL EXTRACTS
Herbal extracts to enrich our cream or balm with their therapeutic properties can be of many different types:
These can be flours such as oat or baobab flour, yeast such as brewer’s yeast, powdered vitamin extracts such as Niacinamide or astaxanthin, ground herbs such as bearberry, or even ground rinds of different fruits such as oranges, tangerines or lemons.
ORANGE PEEL POWDER
INCI: Citrus aurantium powder
Orange extract powder can be macerated in oil, glycerine and also water. It is a plant-based ingredient used in cosmetics to formulate a wide range of products, such as creams, gels, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, hair fixatives…
Orange extract has anti-wrinkle, circulation-activating, anti-inflammatory, exfoliating, depigmenting, antiseptic, moisturising properties… The recommended dosage of orange extract in cosmetics ranges from 0.5 to 5%.
The cosmetic powder of orange peel, contains among other nutrients vitamin C that helps us to fight acne and has antioxidant properties, calcium that renews dead skin, potassium that moisturizes and regenerates the skin, magnesium that helps to give shine and youth to your skin. It is toning and astringent and it leaves hair soft, supple and shiny, improving also circulation in the scalp.
With dehydrated orange peel powder, you can make a facial mask to cleanse the skin or revitalizing baths, for oily skin and pimples, tired and dull skin, for all hair types.
Applications: masks, soaps, exfoliating creams, solid shampoo, etc…
Dosage: 0 to 5%. In conjunction with other powders up to 15%.
GROUND OATMEAL
INCI: Avena Sativa
Oats contain manganese, selenium, phosphorus, magnesium and zinc. It has moisturising and nourishing elements and hypoallergenic, emollient, and protective properties.
Oatmeal soothes skin irritations, both allergic and non-allergic, as well as itching. It improves itching caused by psoriasis, scabies, or itching caused by other types of dermatitis.
Because it moisturises and softens the skin, it is recommended for all skin types, extremely dry or flaky skin, also for sensitive skin and children.
It is also widely used in facial masks, as it is an excellent skin cleanser. Its particles absorb dirt and cellular residues while respecting and caring for the skin structure.
ALKANET ROOT POWDER
INCI: Alkanna Tinctoria
Alkanna tinctoria is a plant native to the Mediterranean part of the Boraginaceae family. Its roots contain a red dye that has been used as a dye since ancient times. It also has great medicinal properties.
The Greek physician, Hippocrates, recorded the use of this root for the treatment of skin ulcers. Because the plant contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids (which can cause liver toxicity), it is now almost exclusively used as a cosmetic dye and as a medicinal plant for topical use.
In addition to being antibacterial, it is very effective in improving inflammation, is suitable for sunburn and is able to act as a natural sunscreen. In fact, it is combined with ghee to treat burns and infected wounds.
Cosmetics: It has been used as a colouring agent for lipstick and in powder blusher.
HIBISCUS FLOWER
INCI: Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder
Hibiscus flower stimulates cell renewal, helps eliminate blemishes and reduces wrinkles caused by the signs of ageing as well as providing other skin benefits.
Its richness in vitamin E, essential fatty acids and natural antioxidants helps to fight against skin ageing and the harmful effects of UV rays. This is why it is added to a wide range of cosmetics such as: facial masks, creams and lotions, serums and soothing after-sun treatments.
BAOBAB FLOUR
INCI: Adansonia Digitata
Contains: triterpenoids, flavonoids and phenolic compounds, sterols and saponins. Vitamins A, B, C and E so that it nourishes the epidermis, hair and nails. It is ideal for the treatment of dry skin, predisposed to the formation of wrinkles.
Thanks to its polyunsaturated fatty acids, it ensures optimal hydration and tissue protection. Its vitamin components and organic acids slow down skin ageing, keeping the skin elastic and glowing.
Its properties allow the skin to regenerate quickly; it also acts as a natural antibacterial, cleanses deeply and leaves a feeling of freshness, delaying skin ageing.
BREWER’S YEAST EXTRACT POWDER
INCI: Yeast Saccharomyces cereviciae Extract
The most important cosmetic properties of brewer’s yeast are to promote the production of collagen, elastin, to rebuild the extracellular matrix and to be refreshing to the skin. Its good results in post-solar products are particularly striking, which has generated innovative combinations for a new class of cosmetics with anti-inflammatory and rehydrating action on damaged and water-deficient skin.
It can be considered a unique internal moisturiser, swelling the skin surface by increasing hydration and incorporating nascent proteins into the skin cells to help the skin oxygenate and appear more luminous.
ASTAXANTHIN EXTRACT
INCI: ASTAXANTHIN
Astaxanthin is a natural antioxidant derived from microalgae. It supports joint, skin and eye health and provides a wide range of health benefits.
A study on the role of astaxanthin in UV-induced skin damage in healthy people suggested that it offered some sun protection. Skin is damaged by daily exposure to the sun, so the skin-protective effects of astaxanthin may be particularly important.
In addition, several data show that astaxanthin has important nutraceutical applications and health benefits, especially in healthy ageing processes as it prevents oxidative stress.
ALOE VERA POWDER
INCI: ALOE BARBADENSIS
Aloe vera powder is made from dried aloe vera leaves ground to a powder consistency. It can be used in many ways in different products and offers multiple benefits to the body due to its high content of antioxidants and vitamin C, which strengthen the immune system by repairing and soothing the digestive tract.
For the skin: Aloe vera powder heals the skin and improves its elasticity. It has moisturising and soothing properties that relieve scars and marks, as well as minor burns, eczema, psoriasis and acne.
It is anti-inflammatory and increases collagen production in the skin, as well as acting as an antiseptic to help reduce any pain, swelling or itching related to mosquito bites, sunburn or allergic reactions.
OATMEAL BALM RECIPE
As mentioned above, this balm is particularly suitable for treating atopic skin and skin affected by dermatitis or eczema with itching, as oatmeal has an anti-inflammatory effect, soothing itching and softening irritation.
It would be very interesting to use a calendula oil as a base oil for this balm, for example. By adding the ground oatmeal to it, we would enrich our balm even more, giving it very good properties for treating this type of sensitive skin.
In any case, with this type of skin we must avoid, above all, creams loaded with preservatives and synthetic active ingredients, even if they are homemade, as they have an irritating effect on this type of skin.
As well as minimising the use of essential oils (just a couple of drops, or none at all) and avoiding chemical fragrances as much as possible.
Below we describe the properties of some of the essential oils most suitable for the treatment of atopic skin and skin affected by dermatitis. These include blue chamomile and Roman chamomile, which are anti-inflammatory, sandalwood, which is a regulator, geranium, which is regenerative, rosewood, carrot seed extract and, above all, patchouli to treat itching.
Ingredients for about 100 grams of product:
About 70 ml of calendula oil, if available, or almond oil.
About 10 grams of oatmeal* powder, and
About 15 grams of beeswax.
Optionally, a few drops, no more than 5, of carrot seed EO or chamomile. Both have very good properties for treating the most delicate skins.
As this balm does not contain water, it does not require the addition of preservatives. Only, if we want to extend its life by preventing rancidity, we can add a few drops of vitamin E.
*Some people go to the trouble of buying colloidal oatmeal to incorporate into creams and balms like this one. We have found that you get much the same result by grinding the oat flakes from the supermarket in a coffee grinder to a fine powder that dissolves easily in the oil since, after all, what we are doing is sort of macerating the oats in the oil as if they were a hot oleate. Finally, the properties of the powdered oatmeal will pass into our oil and thus into our balm.
PROCEDURE:
Place a heat-resistant container in a bain-marie and start by melting the beeswax.
When it is completely melted, add the calendula oil or, in its place, the almond oil and, finally, the oat powder, stirring constantly until everything is perfectly integrated.
Remove from the heat and, if we have decided to do so, this would be the moment to add the drops of EO, as they are thermolabile substances.
As you can see, with balms and ointments based on oil and wax, the proportion used is more or less 90% oil to 10% beeswax. The percentages, as you will understand, can be flexible depending on how hard we want our balm to be. If we like it to have a softer consistency, then, for example, instead of 15 grams of wax for 70 grams of oil, we will add only 10 grams of wax.
PROPERTIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS:
Carrot seed essential oil: This oil is moisturising, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and sunscreen. It also adds a mild and special aroma to the recipe.
Blue chamomile essential oil: Blue chamomile oil owes its blue colour to the chamazulenic acid contained in this essential oil. Chamazulenic acid is anti-inflammatory and promotes skin healing. This oil can therefore be used diluted in a carrier oil to disinfect wounds.
*With essential oils, less is more, as a few drops can add good properties to our balm, while too much can cause irritation with daily use. We should also bear in mind that this is a balm for sensitive skin, which often cannot even tolerate essential oils topically.
THERE ARE VARIOUS TYPES OF CHAMOMILE OILS AND EXTRACTS:
BLUE CHAMOMILE ESSENTIAL OIL: Blue chamomile essential oil, which is the one we have chosen, is specially selected for the treatment of atopic skin.
ROMAN CAMOMILE ESSENTIAL OIL: But, it would be equally possible to use Roman chamomile EO, which also has anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. It is also used topically to treat allergies, skin irritations, etc. ….
CAMOMILE OIL EXTRACT: In this case, we are not talking about an essential oil, but a macerate of chamomile flowers in virgin sunflower oil.
INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract.
The difference is that this oily extract could be incorporated in larger quantities in our recipes for sensitive skin as it lacks the highly biocidal capabilities of all essential oils.
In this way, just as we would do by adding a marigold oil, we would be using the softening, protective and regenerating qualities of chamomile or marigold to treat this type of skin without the disadvantages of the biocidal effect that these same plants would have if we used them in the form of essential oil.
PATCHOULI ESSENTIAL OIL:
Thanks to the potent analgesic, anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties of its bioactive component, patchoulen, this oil is widely used to relieve pain and inflammation in cases of arthritis and joint pain. As a natural vasodilator, it is also used to treat painful muscle spasms, muscle pain, arthritic conditions and other inflammatory conditions.
And it is because of these same analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties that it is so effective in treating atopic skin with pruritus.
Patchouli essential oil is renowned for its use in skin cell regeneration. Endowed with countless active ingredients and antibacterial properties, it facilitates wound healing and effectively reduces wrinkles, scars, blemishes and other signs of ageing. This aromatic oil also plays a key role in the fight against bacteria and germs that ultimately cause pimples, acne and other skin infections, giving us radiant, impurity-free skin.
ROSEWOOD ESSENTIAL OIL
Rosewood Essential Oil (Aniba rosaeodora) is obtained by steam distilling the wood of a tree. It is noted for its skin regenerating and mind calming properties.
It is analgesic, antidepressant and stimulant, antiseptic, tonic and aphrodisiac. Therefore, it is also soothing for this type of skin.
HOMEMADE ALOE VERA BALM RECIPE
This balm, like all the balms we show you in this article, could also be used on atopic and sensitive skin. However, it is more suitable for all skin types that we want to purify and moisturise on a daily basis.
Ingredients for about 100 grams of product:
About 70 ml of cold-pressed virgin olive oil.
About 10 grams of powdered aloe vera*, and
About 15 grams of beeswax.
Optionally, a few drops of antioxidant to extend its shelf life, no more than 10 drops of critical CO2 rosemary extract.
Rosemary extract CO2 critical: CO2 critical extracts are not exactly the same as essential oils. The technology with which they are obtained is far more sophisticated and a much better result is achieved with them. Thus, this type of extract optimally preserves the original aroma and properties of the plant from which it is extracted.
In the case of rosemary, this extract has antioxidant properties as well as antimicrobial properties. This is why we can use it instead of vitamin E to prevent rancidity in our aloe vera balm.
Rosemary EO is particularly beneficial for those suffering from conditions such as rosacea or dermatitis, helping to reduce associated inflammation and discomfort.
As the balm also contains no water, it does not require the addition of preservatives.
PROCEDURE:
Place a heat-resistant container in a bain-marie and start by melting the beeswax.
When it is completely melted, add the olive oil and, finally, the aloe vera powder, stirring constantly until everything is perfectly integrated.
Remove from the heat and, if we have decided to do so, this is the moment to add the droplets of rosemary extract CO2, which is a thermolabile substance.
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